[gewindows]

is it a drop in the tank type

Thats the one! Just lob it in through the lid hole.

[windowcleaninginessex.co.uk]

Just a thought Matt, would heating the water directly and all night cause problems with algae etc, as when you have a fish tank and heat it you have to put in chemicals to stop algae.
Not sure whether you would get any problem, but might be wise to keep eye on tank.
Darren

Algae in fish tanks isnt caused by heat its caused by light.

Matt, I know light is one cause but algae builds up quicker when water is heated,
Only trying to help and make suggestions, which is what this site is about.

[pingu]

Thats really good work you've been doing this cold snap...well done Matt!!!

I have also been looking at heating my new static ro cabinate and have been looking at pulse proportional thermostats to be used inconjunction with infra-red heat lamps like they use for keeping poultry warm....

Here is some blurb from http://www.habistat.net/
----------------------------------------------------------------

Sophisticated pulse proportional thermostat, ideal for controlling higher power ceramic heaters. The function of this thermostat is far more sophisticated than the simpler on/off switching devices. It will very accurately control heaters and has a maximum load of 600 watts. A normal thermostat switches a heater on full power until the set temperature is achieved. It then switches the heater off completely until the temperature drops below the set value, when the cycle starts over again. The gap between the heater being switched on and then off is called hysteresis. It is between these points that the accuracy of the controller is assessed. The pulse proportional thermostat pulses electricity to the heater.

The sequence of events are as follows: The temperature is set on the dial. The cage and heater are cold so the heater is on full power.As the temperature in the cage nears the set temperature the unit cuts the power down to pulses.The degree of pulse (i.e. the ammount of time the heater is on and the ammount of time it is off) is dependent on the cage temperature. In the early stages of approaching the set temperature the 'on' pulses will be long and the 'off' time will be short. In a correctly set up cage, as the desired temperature is neared, the 'on' pulses become shorter until the cycle levels at approximately 50% on and 50% off. In a cage where the heater is of the correct capacity, the cycle should remain at this point. The heater is only powered enough to maintain the temperature set. It does not have to continually start the heater from cold. This vastly improves heater element life and is far safer for the animals as the heater rarely, if ever, needs to run at full power.

Cheers
Dave

[gewindows]

Just a thought Matt, would heating the water directly and all night cause problems with algae etc, as when you have a fish tank and heat it you have to put in chemicals to stop algae.
Not sure whether you would get any problem, but might be wise to keep eye on tank.
Darren

Algae in fish tanks isnt caused by heat its caused by light.

Matt, I know light is one cause but algae builds up quicker when water is heated,
Only trying to help and make suggestions, which is what this site is about.

Yes, sorry, I hope my answer didnt come across as being short, I didnt mean to offend.

My IBC outside is spray painted black and also the van tank is not going to get light in it as its ply-lined, my understanding of algae growth is that its primary food source comes from light, in just the same way as corals receive their nutrition.

My little experiment may prove me wrong!

[michael papworth]

I really like the look of this.

It's a low cost investment and should be quite cheap to run.

Brain power, not Pound Power. That's what I really like to see.

The only thing that springs to my little mind is that it relies on good insulation. In the morning when the tank is full, it should stay very warm. But, as the day progresses the water will cool down much faster as the tank empties and there's more tank than water!

But what the heck! As long as it's warm enough in the morning, you aren't actually losing anything in the afternoon, are you? It's just a regular system that still works perfectly well.

This is brilliant and you can tune it to the seasons. You can decide what temperature is more suitable to winter weather, summer weather etc.

Written with a glow of admiration!!!

ATB Wally

[Window Washers]

Thats really good work you've been doing this cold snap...well done Matt!!!

I have also been looking at heating my new static ro cabinate and have been looking at pulse proportional thermostats to be used inconjunction with infra-red heat lamps like they use for keeping poultry warm....

Here is some blurb from http://www.habistat.net/
----------------------------------------------------------------

Sophisticated pulse proportional thermostat, ideal for controlling higher power ceramic heaters. The function of this thermostat is far more sophisticated than the simpler on/off switching devices. It will very accurately control heaters and has a maximum load of 600 watts. A normal thermostat switches a heater on full power until the set temperature is achieved. It then switches the heater off completely until the temperature drops below the set value, when the cycle starts over again. The gap between the heater being switched on and then off is called hysteresis. It is between these points that the accuracy of the controller is assessed. The pulse proportional thermostat pulses electricity to the heater.

The sequence of events are as follows: The temperature is set on the dial. The cage and heater are cold so the heater is on full power.As the temperature in the cage nears the set temperature the unit cuts the power down to pulses.The degree of pulse (i.e. the ammount of time the heater is on and the ammount of time it is off) is dependent on the cage temperature. In the early stages of approaching the set temperature the 'on' pulses will be long and the 'off' time will be short. In a correctly set up cage, as the desired temperature is neared, the 'on' pulses become shorter until the cycle levels at approximately 50% on and 50% off. In a cage where the heater is of the correct capacity, the cycle should remain at this point. The heater is only powered enough to maintain the temperature set. It does not have to continually start the heater from cold. This vastly improves heater element life and is far safer for the animals as the heater rarely, if ever, needs to run at full power.

Cheers
Dave

Dave have you ever thought about using a heat mat to keep ro warm ?

[gewindows]

I really like the look of this.

It's a low cost investment and should be quite cheap to run.

Brain power, not Pound Power. That's what I really like to see.

The only thing that springs to my little mind is that it relies on good insulation. In the morning when the tank is full, it should stay very warm. But, as the day progresses the water will cool down much faster as the tank empties and there's more tank than water!

But what the heck! As long as it's warm enough in the morning, you aren't actually losing anything in the afternoon, are you? It's just a regular system that still works perfectly well.

This is brilliant and you can tune it to the seasons. You can decide what temperature is more suitable to winter weather, summer weather etc.

Written with a glow of admiration!!!

ATB Wally

Throughout the course of the day the water lost 4°C tops, probably 3.

[pingu]

I have thought about those heat mats but thought the higher watt outputs of the infra-read bulbs or those ceramic heat emitter bulbs might be the way to go...

Again like Matt has done...insulate the cabinate and then thought about having that foiled bubble wrap on the inside also to reflect heat and a additional 'barrier'.

The Plan for the next freeze is not to have to worry about on of it..just let the equipment take care of it's self.

Cheers
Dave.

[michael papworth]

I really like the look of this.

It's a low cost investment and should be quite cheap to run.

Brain power, not Pound Power. That's what I really like to see.

The only thing that springs to my little mind is that it relies on good insulation. In the morning when the tank is full, it should stay very warm. But, as the day progresses the water will cool down much faster as the tank empties and there's more tank than water!

But what the heck! As long as it's warm enough in the morning, you aren't actually losing anything in the afternoon, are you? It's just a regular system that still works perfectly well.

This is brilliant and you can tune it to the seasons. You can decide what temperature is more suitable to winter weather, summer weather etc.

Written with a glow of admiration!!!

ATB Wally

Throughout the course of the day the water lost 4°C tops, probably 3.

Brilliant. An ounce of experience outweighs a ton of ideas.

You's da man!

Still full of admiration.

Wally

[Window Washers]

I have thought about those heat mats but thought the higher watt outputs of the infra-read bulbs or those ceramic heat emitter bulbs might be the way to go...

Again like Matt has done...insulate the cabinate and then thought about having that foiled bubble wrap on the inside also to reflect heat and a additional 'barrier'.

The Plan for the next freeze is not to have to worry about on of it..just let the equipment take care of it's self.

Cheers
Dave.

Only reason I was thinking this is heat rises it does not fall a mat at bottom would use the heat wisely, well that was my thoughts...

Mattss idea about fish tanks heater has got to be a winner, now a supplier should do one for an ibc or van mount and we would all be on a winner,

[Dennis Taylor]

Give it a week and there will be an onmiaquaheater, patented of course 

[michael papworth]

Give it a week and there will be an onmiaquaheater, patented of course 

And don't forget the OmniInsulation Cab

[Pureandclean]

Andrews water treatment were selling them about 4 years ago, haven't checked there web-site lately, but probably still on.

[matt]

Mattss idea about fish tanks heater has got to be a winner, now a supplier should do one for an ibc or van mount and we would all be on a winner,

but as soon as a supplier gets involved the price doubles, look at 100 gpd RO's, fish keeping ( 65 quid delivered ) suppliers 140 quid delivered

this was the whole point of the heaters, i have spoken to a electronics mate of mine and when my 500 W heaters arrive ( next week by al accounts ), he is going to have 1 and strip it down and look at what needs to be done to override the thermostat, the idea for me is that 2 X 500 W heaters without the thermostat will bang out enough heat to get nice temps over night

30 quid for 2 of them, upto 50 - 60 C, nice

[matt]

Give it a week and there will be an onmiaquaheater, patented of course 

  i miss glyn, he would have bitten at that

here is my guess at his reply

" yes they come in the came box, yes they are the same heaters, BUT my workshop guy has looked over them and made sure they work "

[pingu]

You have to admit that Matt has done really good work this silly season so he must be top of the list for an appreciation award from CIU/WC...

Given that I am as tight as ''well you know what' he can just get a very grateful thanks...

Cheers
Dave.

[gewindows]

Maybe it just means Father Christmas will visit me next Christmas 

[ccmids]

nice job matt whats the warm water like through the pump, not too hot does it work ok?

[gewindows]

No probs today with it.

I think its a bit of a case of having to play around with things, temp etc. Do you heat it in the IBC or van tank? Heat it to 20° C above what you want it at the brush head or not quite so much? Maybe adjust that figure in the summer. Of course it'll take less time to heat to required temp in the summer too.

So its a works in progress thing really at the mo.

[windowcleaninginessex.co.uk]

Just a thought Matt, would heating the water directly and all night cause problems with algae etc, as when you have a fish tank and heat it you have to put in chemicals to stop algae.
Not sure whether you would get any problem, but might be wise to keep eye on tank.
Darren

Algae in fish tanks isnt caused by heat its caused by light.

Matt, I know light is one cause but algae builds up quicker when water is heated,
Only trying to help and make suggestions, which is what this site is about.

Yes, sorry, I hope my answer didnt come across as being short, I didnt mean to offend.

My IBC outside is spray painted black and also the van tank is not going to get light in it as its ply-lined, my understanding of algae growth is that its primary food source comes from light, in just the same way as corals receive their nutrition.

My little experiment may prove me wrong!

Matt, I hope it works, only time will tell.
I am sure more will follow you with this solution as even the cost of running the heater is nothing if you can get a days work in. My swimming pool heater is 12 kw and that is turned on about easter time and turned off around mid September for 24 hours a day. That puts about £60 extra a month on Electric bill, for months it used.
Your heater is 3kw, so its a quarter ofthe power of mine, so surely only quarter of cost to run £15 per month, if thats right the cost ofrunning your heater should be bargain.
All the best with it 
Darren