[kingfisher]

I’m just doing the first cleans of my customers windows using a W.F.P and I’m getting a few spots and runs.

Can anyone tell me what they think is the most critical part of the technique when cleaning with a pole is it cleaning the top of the frame, the rinse ECT?

And when you rinse the window should you remove the brush away from the window?

Thanks Kevin.

[Old_Master]

It varies depending on the window frame construction.
Crittal windows are probably the worse type to clean thankfully there are not many surviving these days.
White painted timber frames where the paint gives off a powder against a scrim or more often your clothing can also be a problem and require a lot more rinsing on initial cleans-once the powdered paint has been rinsed away then further cleans dont present too much of a problem.
Early aluminium frames with rubber seals can cause a problem as the water gets trapped and trickles down over a period of minitues or hours.
Old fashioned lead lights, the majority of modern windows and timber windows that have regularly painted should present no problem at all.
Proper rinsing is the key to overcome most problems.
It doesnt realy matter if you hold the brush away from the glass but some window cleaners prefer this method particularly on the lower windows say up to three floors.
On our first cleans we go round clean the frames and glass they go round again and do the whole job again paying attention to remove cob webs and trapped dirt at the edge of frames.
You need to get a sheeting effect where the water flows from the top leaving only the bottom few inches of glass with a film of water on it.
Glyn

[Ian_Giles]

A good reply from the'Omnipole Man', Though I would slightly qualify the fact that you can do a top job on windows with oxidized, powdery frames.
Once they have started to oxidize the flaming things don't stop It's the one area where you will do a better job with trad methods. You can do a fair job with WFP, but until the windows are re-painted it won't be perfect.
I either turn down work of this nature, or demonstrate to the potential customer with a moistened finger what the problem is, they either accept that I will not be able to do a perfect job, or, with a resigned shrug I'll try and pass the work along to a trad cleaner, cos I'm not interested in doing domestic work the trad way.....Actuall, having said that, I do have one account where I do a mixture of WFP and trad because of some windows that are starting to oxidize
They have to accept it with the upstairs (they have a mixture of UPVC and Wooden) but on affected downstairs windows I do clean them the 'old' way.

But I do accept that Glyn has way more experience than me!!

On most windows, at least for myself, I spend a lot of time on the top edges of each pane of glass, er, timewise that is kinda relative of course!
On a first time clean my method is the same as the one Glyn described.
Most of the time I would expect to do a job that was top notch, even on a first time clean.

Not every window will sheet, it is the ideal for sure if it does, but some will bead up instead, not a lot you can do about that, but you should still do a top job, you might have to use more water though to ensure there is nothing trapped in the water beads that will cause the windows to spot when it dries out.

Regards,

Ian

[steve k]

I have found the best windows to WFP are the ones with well maintained, painted frames as these tend to sheet perfectly.
Beading does not give you the same feeling of "job well done" as the sheeting glass, but I have had no problems with finishing on beading glass...except on the ones that are in direct sunlight...then you will have to rinse overthe glass first to cool it down and then go back over after a minute or so.
If the frames on UPVC are dirty, it is false economy not to wash and rinse thoroughly at the first clean, or you will always have dirt finding its way into the beads and leaving spots and runs. Clean the frames BEFORE the glass, and rinse all completely until water is rinsing clear. Next time round, you should be able to whizz over the glass with good results.
I have had problems with aluminium frames turning the water a milky white colour and leaving lots of powdery white residue on the glass after it has dried. Also, the seals are not as good around opening windows and I have found runs of water appearing on the inside of the glass, so be careful with these.
Leaded windows are a DREAM to do with the pole!!
Rinsing at high level is hard work and I am interested in what Glyn said about being able ro rinse without taking brush off glass...what do you do Glyn?...do you leave the brush in situ at top of glass and let water run down through the brush onto the glass? if this gives good results...could be the answer to my problems of handling and stability of the pole when rinsing at height!!

Prime importance is a pair of sunglasses
best of luck
Steve

[Gordon Watson]

Before the 1st clean, how can you recognise that a window has oxidized, powdery frames?

Gordon

[Old_Master]

Hi Steve
To rinse without removing the brush you simply place brush in one of the top corners and move horizontaly to the oposite corner, making sure you have a good flow sliding down over the glass.
As the brushes "self clean" with the constant flow of water there should be no problems even on the most cobweb caked window. Con who works for us always holds the brush away from the glass even at 50' high but our other guys use the above method and there doesnt appear to be any difference with the results.
I think it can be a confidence issue, if you were to hold ther brush away on 1st cleans,so you can see the stream of water and on the next visits use the above method and check the results it would save a lot of energy. I dont try to interfere with Con's method as he is happy with his way and the extra strength required to hold the brush away doesnt bother him at all.

Gordon
If you touch the frame with a piece of material you will get a tell tale powdery deposit on the cloth.

[Ian_Giles]

Yep, if it is a painted window frame a quick tell tale give away is dull paintwork, just lick the tip of a finger and wipe it on the paintwork, trust me, if its oxidized you'll know!!


Regards,


Ian

[pjulk]

Glyn_omnipole said -

To rinse without removing the brush you simply place brush in one of the top corners and move horizontaly to the oposite corner, making sure you have a good flow sliding down over the glass.

Is this just above the glass you move your brush horizontaly across on. Or is the brush actually on the glass when you move it over.

Whichever way i am going to try this

Paul

[Old_Master]

Hi Paul
With the brush actually on the glass.
Glyn

[pjulk]

Glyn

Thanks very much will save a lot of straining.
Will start to use that way and see how it goes.

Paul

[kingfisher]

A big fat thank you to everyone who replied to this topic I put all the knowledge to good use and every job done since has turned out spot on.

Thanks Kev

[gaza]

Tip the brush on its right hand edge allowing the over the brush rince spray to hit the glass [Tucker pole system] other systems may not have this device fitted,but Ive used the water coming through the brush head to sheet down the glass tipping the brush on its edge

    GAZA