[UBA1]

 Hello chaps, got my new wfp today, just a few questions i`d like to ask please...
 
1) How often do the DI filters need changing. My TDS before is 370 in, comes out at 000 with 80psi mains.
 
2)Do you change the whole DI filter or just top up with resin?
 
3)The other 2 filters, how often do they need changing?
 
4)Can you get first time cleans without spotting effects? and if so, how?
 
5)I`m pleased with the system, apart from some spotting.
 
Regards

[windows_chepstow]

Carefull, UBA1; WFP might slow you down from 5/6 per hour to around 4 per hour!

[UBA1]

Carefull, UBA1; WFP might slow you down from 5/6 per hour to around 4 per hour!

  Bloody hope not

I`m gonna do my poles double handed for quickness, i`m gonna fly through my car windows like the Dukes of hazard

[windows_chepstow]

UBA1, Mate,

I'm a 'yellow belt' at window cleaning but a '2nd Dan Black Belt' on this forum.  I don't think you're going to get much of a response to your questions as you've asked for too many questions, in just one post.

Try splitting them down a bit, posting them one at a time.

[Paul Coleman]

Hello chaps, got my new wfp today, just a few questions i`d like to ask please...
 
1) How often do the DI filters need changing. My TDS before is 370 in, comes out at 000 with 80psi mains.
 
2)Do you change the whole DI filter or just top up with resin?
 
3)The other 2 filters, how often do they need changing?
 
4)Can you get first time cleans without spotting effects? and if so, how?
 
5)I`m pleased with the system, apart from some spotting.
 
Regards

Congrats on getting the new toy Steve.  You can hold one pole in each hand and balance another on your knee so you can clean three windows at once now   
BTW.  I have made changes to my working methods.  Although I didn't adopt all that you showed me, (I ended up staying with the BOAB), I am certainly doing a bit better.  One job that took me 3 hours 10 mins now takes 2 hours 45 mins.  Another that was 2 hrs 20 now takes 2 hours 00 mins and, best of all, there is one that usually takes me around 4 hours that I did in 3 (though I did put on a spurt for that one). It took me a few days to adapt as it felt awkward at first.  As I lose weight and get fitter I expect to improve still further.  I can get fitter but can't get younger.
Sorry I can't help with the WFP query though.

Thanks for an interesting half day that got me thinking.

[Ian_Giles]

UBA1,
When your TDS begins to start rising after it has gone through your DI it will soon need changing. Many would reccommend changing your resin when your reading starts to go above 0.015ppm
You only need to replace your resin, you can get large bags of the stuff from the likes of cleantech.
The prefilters need to be changed  every few months, if theyare getting clogged up the water pressure reading will drop ever so slightly.
I haven't noticed that effect myself, had mine just over a year and have changed my prefilters just the once so far, I should probably have changed them more often though.

You can certainly get them spotless first time, particularly if they are UPVC, but it isn't easy to begin with!!
I would now reckon that any new accounts I do come up just fine.
You basically spend more time washing and rinsing, paying a great deal of attention to the top edges of the glass.
Do all the tops, then go back and go over them lightly again.
Like anything, it takes lots of practice.
A first time clean on a standard Semi will use as much as 25l of water, next time around you will be quicker and use perhaps 12-15litres
You are fit and very quick with trad, take you time to begin with!

Regards,


Ian

[rosskesava]

Hi UBA1

Anyone taken you up on your offer to show them how to do 5 or 6 semi's per hour yet?

I would have thought at that speed WFP was reduntant. Sorry to sound a bit sarcastic but I'm still interested in your earlier claims although some postings you have made since do add credance to your claims.

With regards WFP - read the info on the www.ro-man.com website. I found it really usefull.

Cheers

Ross

[UBA1]

Hi UBA1

Anyone taken you up on your offer to show them how to do 5 or 6 semi's per hour yet?

I would have thought at that speed WFP was reduntant. Sorry to sound a bit sarcastic but I'm still interested in your earlier claims although some postings you have made since do add credance to your claims.

With regards WFP - read the info on the www.ro-man.com website. I found it really usefull.

Cheers

Ross

Carefully read the "shiners`" post above...

I also want to learn the WFP route, as i don`t clean so much anymore, i tend to sell rounds, therefore i need to keep up to date with changes in our trade.

[UBA1]

UBA1,
When your TDS begins to start rising after it has gone through your DI it will soon need changing. Many would reccommend changing your resin when your reading starts to go above 0.015ppm
You only need to replace your resin, you can get large bags of the stuff from the likes of cleantech.
The prefilters need to be changed  every few months, if theyare getting clogged up the water pressure reading will drop ever so slightly.
I haven't noticed that effect myself, had mine just over a year and have changed my prefilters just the once so far, I should probably have changed them more often though.

You can certainly get them spotless first time, particularly if they are UPVC, but it isn't easy to begin with!!
I would now reckon that any new accounts I do come up just fine.
You basically spend more time washing and rinsing, paying a great deal of attention to the top edges of the glass.
Do all the tops, then go back and go over them lightly again.
Like anything, it takes lots of practice.
A first time clean on a standard Semi will use as much as 25l of water, next time around you will be quicker and use perhaps 12-15litres
You are fit and very quick with trad, take you time to begin with!

Regards,


Ian

Thanks Ian

[steve k]

just started with my wfp ... I have really concentrated on first cleans washing out around the frames particularly thoroughly along top edge of any top openers where the dirt has collected over time. Rinse until water is running clear and then go onto next frame, again washing out dirt until clear. Do all like this and then go back to first one and wash and rinse frame and glass. If you take this time initially you will use more water and take more time but it will definately pave the way to beter and quicker cleaning next time round.
If you don`t wash out dirt, the water will absorb it and drip down what you thought was a clean window leaving spots and runs.
Also be wary of the vertical gap between the 2 top openers on most windows...this gap is usually the main culprit for water running down, picking up unwashed debris and dirt and running onto main glass panel...usually when you have moved onto next window after congratulating yourself on a job well done!!...wash and rinse this gap thoroughly!!

When doing 3rd/4th storeys, do all the top floor ones first, allowing to them to dry/stop dripping, then move onto floor below ...if you don`t you can find the water running down the brickwork, picking up brick dust/dirt and dripping onto the windows you have cleaned below.

On first cleans make sure you have ladders with you so you can get up there and clean off any runs or spots...when you have gone, you can be sure the customer will up there checking out your WFP results and if you have left a clean window...even if you have had to wipe off runs they will be confident with your new system and next time round you can leave ladders on roof rack...hopefully!!

Keep a check on TDS readings and DON`T take reading first thing in morning...take it about 1-2 hours into clean...this will give a more accurate diagnosis of your system`s filtration status. As it creeps towards 010 ppm, it`s time to think about changing filters/resin.

best of luck
Steve

[UBA1]

just started with my wfp ... I have really concentrated on first cleans washing out around the frames particularly thoroughly along top edge of any top openers where the dirt has collected over time. Rinse until water is running clear and then go onto next frame, again washing out dirt until clear. Do all like this and then go back to first one and wash and rinse frame and glass. If you take this time initially you will use more water and take more time but it will definately pave the way to beter and quicker cleaning next time round.
If you don`t wash out dirt, the water will absorb it and drip down what you thought was a clean window leaving spots and runs.
Also be wary of the vertical gap between the 2 top openers on most windows...this gap is usually the main culprit for water running down, picking up unwashed debris and dirt and running onto main glass panel...usually when you have moved onto next window after congratulating yourself on a job well done!!...wash and rinse this gap thoroughly!!

When doing 3rd/4th storeys, do all the top floor ones first, allowing to them to dry/stop dripping, then move onto floor below ...if you don`t you can find the water running down the brickwork, picking up brick dust/dirt and dripping onto the windows you have cleaned below.

On first cleans make sure you have ladders with you so you can get up there and clean off any runs or spots...when you have gone, you can be sure the customer will up there checking out your WFP results and if you have left a clean window...even if you have had to wipe off runs they will be confident with your new system and next time round you can leave ladders on roof rack...hopefully!!

Keep a check on TDS readings and DON`T take reading first thing in morning...take it about 1-2 hours into clean...this will give a more accurate diagnosis of your system`s filtration status. As it creeps towards 010 ppm, it`s time to think about changing filters/resin.

best of luck
Steve

Cheers fella