Suddenly there seems to be a great fuss about sash windows, god knows why, providing the paintwork hasn't oxidised they are no more difficult to clean than any other window.
With a first time clean I'll wash everything I can, top to bottom. But I will take care not to have my water pressure to high, otherwise it can end up going up into the gap between the upper and lower sash.
I'll do all the windows on whatever side of the house I'm working on, then go back to the first one.
This time I ignore most of the frames, you just have to be aware that the top sash slides UP into the frame, and that it does sit INSIDE the frame of the window, therefore you do not to the edges of the sash that disappear into the frame. For the obvious reason that water will go between the sash and the frame and draw out any grime that is hidden there.
The same for the lower sash.
As Jeff said, if the top sash is open, try reversing your pole and simply push it shut, if the lower one is open, LEAVE THE WINDOW ALONE!
Quite how you get water inside I don't know
I have a lot of work that involves sash windows, the worst case of water getting in is just a few drbbly runs on the inside of a cracked pane of glass, but thats no different to using an applicator and squeegee, it happens then too.
Tatty paintwork isn't a problem really either, only oxidised paintwork.
If the paintwork has began to oxidise even mildly, then you won't do as good a job, but this fact applies to all types of window and not just sash ones.
Fortunately these are in the minority.
Would I get my ladders out to clean them? Not a chance, I'll give potential customers with oxidised paintwork the number of a trad guy instead, oxidised frames are a pain with trad too, let them have the hassle
I only carry a ladder if I need it for access to a flat roof or somesuch, apart from my 6ft pointer, sometimes I need that for the inside of office windows.
Ian
