[edd]

right lets go back to the solenoid the water MUST be off when you connect
the hose to the van and the solenoid MUST be open as if its shut and you
connect the water the pressure of the water will be too great and the solenoid
wont open right. got that........ok
Make sure solenoid open water off then switch on the tap and bingo!! should
work fine  as this is what mine did or will do?!!
Make sure you backwash at least once a week if not daily
We put a 25 ltr di on and its lasts nearly a year
if you need any help email me v8edd@hotmail.co.uk your number glad to help Edd

[Hants Windows]

ref the Solenoid, now i havent seen the Ironics system, but could you by-pass the valve, run the pipe from your tap to the first tube of the RO system, this would by-pass it, wouldnt it ? ? ? ? trace where the pipe goes from the solenoid and just plumb the pipe from your tap into the first port of call

Yes you can bypass the solenoid easily if you wish, but it will overfill/flow if you forget to turn the water off, and you won't have use of the water meter.

right lets go back to the solenoid the water MUST be off when you connect
the hose to the van and the solenoid MUST be open as if its shut and you
connect the water the pressure of the water will be too great and the solenoid
wont open right. got that........ok

Water pressure of 95psi shouldn't affect the solenoid, it should work ok up to about 120psi, or possibly more.

[RSWindows]

You didn't get the system off A.D. did you

I don't know much about r/o but they are painfully slow. You may need a booster pump.

Loads of people have got rid of the expensive Ionics Resin tube and replaced it with a normal DI Vessel.

Might just do that when this stuff turns brown.  BTW who is A.D? the guy i got this from's first initial was A so what does the initials stand for?

[RSWindows]

Matt: Already have by-passed the Solenoid, not got much time just now to mess about with it so thats why i just by-passed it but i will make time to try fix the thing before new year.

Shiner: water after RO going into tank is between 002,001 and 000 PPM so it is doing the job...just really slowly!

[DASERVICES]

You didn't get the system off A.D. did you

I don't know much about r/o but they are painfully slow. You may need a booster pump.

Loads of people have got rid of the expensive Ionics Resin tube and replaced it with a normal DI Vessel.

Might just do that when this stuff turns brown.  BTW who is A.D? the guy i got this from's first initial was A so what does the initials stand for?

Andrew Davidson, sound guy.

[RSWindows]

ahh no not Andrew, travelled to London for it on Saturday. Loooooooooong painfull drive!

[edd]

HANTS what the hell do you know have you got an Ionic machine coz I have and
it DEFIANTLY will NOT let you put any running water in with the solenoid closed
and then flick the switch as the water pressure will CERTAINLY hold it shut I know for sure

[Paul Coleman]

Matt: Already have by-passed the Solenoid, not got much time just now to mess about with it so thats why i just by-passed it but i will make time to try fix the thing before new year.

Shiner: water after RO going into tank is between 002,001 and 000 PPM so it is doing the job...just really slowly!

Ok.  Sounds like the membrane is just fine then.  I asked about TDS because when a membrane is nearing the end of its useful life, a rapid slowdown in production usually goes hand in hand with rapid climbing of the TDS.

[Ian Rochester]

Sent you copy of manual

[RSWindows]

Sent you copy of manual

Recieved with thanks and appreciation!

Anyone in Central Scotland here got one of these systems? Willing to travel anywhere across the central belt for some problem solving advice!

[DASERVICES]

www.centralwindowcleaning.co.uk/base.swf

[RSWindows]

Who is it that owns this company, you think they will be willing to help?

[DASERVICES]

Forgotten his name but okay chap to speak to even though last time I checked he was not licensed.

[RSWindows]

LOL!