[LTT Leathercare]

The simple answer is yes it can be removed.  We have seen this happen to aniline suites in a very short period of time. 

Unfortunately the retailer will have given no information on looking after this type of leather but it could not be deemed unfit for purpose as they bought that type of leather (we have heard this problem over and over again in our work as consultants).  Retailers may have to be more responsible when the new legislation comes in.

Using leather protector (preferably Ultra Protect) on this type of leather would have helped to inhibit this but there is still the neccessity to keep it clean regularly to remove grease from the surface.

Degreasing products will have to be used and with the amount of grease that is in the leather it would need to be done several times.  Degreasing is not a quick process and should not be rushed for the best results.  When you use degreasing compounds it will remove a certain amount of colour.   It is impossible to tell how much colour loss there will be until the proces has been completed.
Restoring colour can be tricky.  It is no use using a balm (as these are wax/oil based and result in contaminating the leather) you need to use aniline dyes (the original products used during tanning) and this can be difficult  to get a lot of colour back into a defined area.  Colour can be enhanced using aniline finishes which have colour in them.

It is a skilled process and needs a workshop due to the length of time needed to do the job.

We have recently done a bed head with this same problem but have done this process many times.

You could pigment it and change the suite very successfully with BRIT restoration system but this will completely change the suite from what it is and you would need to completely degrease it before you started otherwise the pigment would not adhere to the leather.

It is certainly not beyond help but may not be as new depending on how much colour is removed.  Reupholstery will be tricky as you would have to find a leather to match and this would be tricky.
Loose covers are not an option on leather Steve.

If you need any help just give me a buzz Mike If you remember Mike we will have covered aniline restoration on the course you did with us (but not the degreasing part).

[Ben Staerck]

Mike,

You can repair that to a very good standard using the products you have in your kit already.

I do not have the information to hand to post on here now, but if you call me tomorrow I can emplain on the phone. Then I'll post later.

Best thing of all, it can be done in about an hour or 2.

[robert stubbs]

Found this for sale on ebay, is it beyond repair.

[Roger Koh]

A leather cleaning & restoration system for Aniline Wax Pull-Up leather

Mike & Viewers,

“How about dye it dark brown and apply a top coat, just turn it into a pigmented leather suite”.

Will certainly create another set of problem – adhesion!

I suggest we stay on course and not make a pariah out of a leather type.
There is a great possibility to restore back to the original leather type.
We need patience aptitude and good attitude.
We have to be a slave to the leather in order to master it (I have been there).
Products use for cleaning restoration has to be leather safe (pH 3 – 5).
Alkaline cleaner and solvency is out of place, for sure.
For double sure please check the pH of all solution before use.
Otherwise we may compound the problem.

This is the cleaning and restoration system for aniline wax pull-up leathers.

(A) Spotting & Preconditioning:
Step 1   Grease spotting with a leather safe pH 4.6 spotter (spotter4.6™) in combination with a leather safe pH 4.0 heavy duty preconditioner (superCleaner4.0™). Let both products soak into the leather structure to plump it up for 15 to 30 minutes.  Thereafter scud it with a blunt curve object (a large spoon) without scratching the leather and absorbed with a white clean rag.

(B) Cleaning:
Step 2   Spray a pH 3.8 leather safe cleaner (cleaner3.8™) and let the leather structure soak it up with fullness.
   Repeat the scudding and extraction process (just ignore the color bleeding if any).

(C) Acidifier Rinse:
Step 3   Spray a pH 3.0 leather acidifier rinse (rinse3.0™) to plump up the stain area and repeat scudding and extraction.

(D) Replenishing Original Fatliquor:
Step 4   Spray an anionic pH 5.0 fatliquor over the cleaned area and let it absorbed evenly into the leather structure.
   This is to replenish original fatliquor removed during the degreasing process and preventing the leather to go stiff when dry. This is anionic (-) fatliquor will bond with the cationic (+) leather fibrils thus help dislodge the (foreign stuffing oils) from the inter-fibrillary space too.

(E) The Force of the Wicking Process:
Step 5   Place a white absorbent towel over the stain area and mist spray with rinse3.0™ to achieve direct contact with the leather without any air bubbles in between. Then place additional layers and mist them wet too. Cover with a thick white towel to secure the paper towel and leave it naturally dry overnight. Suspended oily particulates will be transfer to the paper towel by the power of the wicking process.

(F) Inspection:
Step 6   Repeat the above steps to your satisfaction.

(G) Spot Dyeing:
Step 7   Matching aniline transparent dyes (anilineDye21™) for color touch up

(H) Replenish Pull-Up Wax Effect
Step 8   Replenish removed wax effect (waxEffect9.9™).

(I) Adhesion Promoter:
Step 9   Apply adhesion coat (adhesion73™).

(J) Protective Top Coat:
Step 10   Apply matching top coat from a choice or a mix of anilineTop55WS™ (waxy satin), anilineTop54HG™ (high gloss) or anilineTop54M™ (matte).

(K) Leather Scent Draggy Feel Non-Stick Conditioning:
Step 11   leatherScent’D™.

System is here for your scrutiny.
Products are available by mail.
Training is not a prerequisite when you follow a system with a little faith.
You can do better, I can help!

Roger Koh
www.f.com

[LTT Leathercare]

Here are the before and after photos of the bed head professionally restored




The process was

Removal of grease (several times)
Colour restoration using aniline dyes mixed to match
Finishing with Tinted Finish in a can to blend
Protect with Ultra Protect

[Ben Staerck]

Grease Removal Unfinished Leather

1. Thoroughly clean the area with the leather ultra clean (foamed) on a sponge. If the grease is thick, wipe as much of it off as possible.
2. Allow to dry.
3. Wet the area with ultra clean so the leather is saturated.
4. Using the machine suck out all the liquid and grease from the leather. Keep using the machine until the leather is almost dry. Be careful when using the hose not to scratch the leather.
5. Allow to thoroughly dry and inspect. Normally this method gets all grease out first time. If it doesn’t, just repeat the process.
6. Apply leather re-colouring balm if necessary and finish off with a coating of protection cream.

That process only takes a couple of hours at most and will restore the leather, no matter how much grease has been soaked up to a very good condition.

[LTT Leathercare]

Andy experimented widely with a huge variety of machines when he was in the USA and did not find any that would extract dirt and grease from leather as the flow of air through leather is not sufficient to allow it to dislodge and extract soils.

Andy tested many many methods of cleaning and restoration in the USA as his job as a trouble shooter for Stainsafe/Multimaster was to find solutions to problems. This is where his vast experience comes from.

[stevegunn]

Judy

Its ok doing a headboard like that (very impressive by the way) but the example Mike is showing would need the whole suite doing which would be expensive granted customer has another 3 years to pay

[LTT Leathercare]

It doesn't need the whole suite doing, you do the affected patch and then blend in.

[Ben Staerck]

Andy experimented widely with a huge variety of machines when he was in the USA and did not find any that would extract dirt and grease from leather as the flow of air through leather is not sufficient to allow it to dislodge and extract soils.

Andy tested many many methods of cleaning and restoration in the USA as his job as a trouble shooter for Stainsafe/Multimaster was to find solutions to problems. This is where his vast experience comes from.

Just because Andy couldn't find a system that works doesn't mean it cannot work. I have a proven system that I have expalined above. Its simple and easy.

[*paul_moss]

Judy is it just the camera angle or is the finished picture a much darker colour than the first picture?

[LTT Leathercare]

Its just the camera angle.  The leather was restored back to its original colour so was a richer colour when we finished but not as dark as it appears to be in the photo.

[stevegunn]

Its just the camera angle.  The leather was restored back to its original colour so was a richer colour when we finished but not as dark as it appears to be in the photo.

That's what I was getting at looks a lot darker than the original colour

[Shaun_Ashmore]

I was a crash test dummy for leather extraction and it does work although it wasn't as bad as that!

Just be careful and use little vac power and cfr tool.

Shaun

[LTT Leathercare]

If this was possible you could do extraction cleaning on leather which you can't. :

[Shaun_Ashmore]

I wouldn't hwe a full suite but we are looking at a solving a problem which in my case it worked when I used it.

Shaun

[LTT Leathercare]

If you think about it logically you cannot hwe leather it is impossible even if it is to solve a problem!! the airflow simply will not allow it.

[Buster Ingram]

Don't you just love a good debate,  
 I can see where Shaun's coming from and as Ben say's don't knock it till you have tried it!
I too had a suite like the one Mike's showing, it was on the two arm chairs, years of head grease to the point it had started to rot the leather. After giving it a good old rub with various degreasing agents it went into holes.
Needless to say what started as a straight forward clean turned into a full blown repair. Customer was happy and I got paid more for the extra work

[LTT Leathercare]

We have tried it Dave that is just the point. 

"After giving it a good old rub with various degreasing agents" You should not be rubbing or scrubbing with degreasing agents they will do the work if left over a period of time that is how they extract the grease.  What did you do reupholster if it had gone into holes, you were lucky they did not hold you liable for the damage!!

[Buster Ingram]

Sorry Judy I was tping whilst you were adding your comment.

I think what Ben is trying to say is draw the air across the surface of the leather with the vac and not through the leather itself.