[easy clean]

hi all,

i'm looking for a bit of advice from people that have either and also what would people buy if given the choice?

superlite 2- from gardiners

ultra lite- from emporium

all comments welcome, both pro's and con's ffor both poles.

many thanks jon

[Captain Scarlet]

Ok, I've held both. I did prefer the Super-lite 2, even though the Emporium is shiny! The Super-lite 2 is deffinetly alot stronger. And just look at Gardiners track record for customer service, it's brilliant. Gardiners know this industry better than Emporium, who don't clean windows and own a fishing shop. The Emporium is slightly lighter but not by much. The price is very similar. I would go for the Super-lite 2 if I was you. Luke

[windowwashers]

Agree with Luke 110% for the customer services with alex G.

Ian

[Captain Scarlet]

Compared to the Emporium the Super-lite wouldn't chip easily anyway. I think I heard Alex is developing base protectors for the Super-lite 2 similar to the Emporium but I could have got that all wrong so best to ask Alex himself. But the Super-lite 2 has rubber caps already and an end bung. It is quite hard to chip it because it is tough and you have the end bung. Luke

ps. Only dealings I've had with Emporium is twice on the phone, once about 5 months back and just recently.

[Captain Scarlet]

Well, I'm one of the lucky few to have held both. Not many people have so I doubt you will get many comments. Luke

[Nathanael Jones]

I've got to say I'd go for the SII,... I'm not sure if its a better pole (though I suspect it is), but Alex has gained a great reputation for service and support. You have to give the guy credit for putting in the effort, both in the development of his products, and his contributions to the forums. I've never heard a bad word said about him!
The SII isn't much more expensive,.. and now comes in a DIY kit if you want to save a few £££.

[NWH]

I have both poles and although Alan is a great guy and is working on improving his pole it is not a finished product and in a million years i wouldn`t compare it to the superlite 2 pole,the superlite 2 regardless of what anyone says has flex but for this type of pole ie modular is mega strong and a quality product,the only problem both these poles come with is a spinning brush because of the adapter you have to put over the end,in my opinion if Alex had glued a thread in the end of the top section he would have improved the pole 10 fold,the Emporium pole is a Maver resolution with extra carbon weave.And if anyone says the ends on any of these poles don`t still chip there lying cos they do,i must say though in chipping a base section on the S2 although a very very small chip you can see the thickness of the pole.

[Captain Scarlet]

Yes, it's amazing. My disabled mum can hold it up at 45ft!!!! without a building. You can lift it from horizontal at 45ft. Have you considered this option:

http://www.gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/acatalog/SUPER-LITE_2__DIY_KIT.html

Its the Super-lite 2 diy kit. You won't go wrong with the Super-lite, you will be very impressed, Luke

[NWH]

Sorry again Alan but i would have to say that if you want a pole that will last and take a few knocks the S2 is the choice i would make if i had to make it again,but like i said if you do buy one get Alex to glue a thread in the end of the top section,it will improve the pole no end.

[Captain Scarlet]

Alex, out of curiosity, what is the purpose of that top piece on section 1, Luke

[Alex Gardiner]

On the Super-Lite1 we had an aluminium gooseneck that push-fitted directly onto the top section which was a perfectly good solution.  However, during the course of selling a very large number of these poles, more and more of our customers wanted the ability to also use a plastic gooseneck as well as an aluminium one.  The solution on the Super-Lite2 is to have the short connector piece that allows you to either screw in an aluminium G-Fit or a plastic gooseneck.  This allows the pole to please both those who want just a plastic neck or those who need to reach over deep sills. The other benefit (and one that I have used) is that it allows you to screw on an ultra deep gooseneck for the odd really awkward window.

I understand the slightly simpler solution of having the screw thread fitted directly to the top of Section No:1.  However this would mean that when packing the pole away, you would have the gooseneck connected to Section No:1 rather than simply pulling off the connector piece to pack it all away. 

Also, it is a question of strength and longevity which we rate very highly.  The short connector piece is designed to take all the strain of screwing and unscrewing a gooseneck and the lateral strains that a gooseneck places on the screw thread.  Whilst it would be possible to have the screw thread directly on the No:1 Section, you would be increasing the stresses that this section was under, although in all probability it would be tough enough.

NWH - I am sure that we could custom make a top end solution for yourself if you felt it would benefit you.  I've got something in mind already for you.

[stevekennedy]

Araldite 

[Davew]

I've got the S2 and can't really fault it. Didn't answer the post origionally because i have never seen the Emporium pole.

[Captain Scarlet]

I thought strength was the reason Alex, as that top piece takes the strain well. And it does help alot that section 1 isnt connected to the gooseneck at all times. I havent had much trouble with spinning, its just a minor occasional irritation. Its better than the constant irritation of using a heavy and whippy pole, Luke

[Alex Gardiner]

It's interesting that you mention the top spinning as well.  Personally, I've never had this problem.  I always push the No:1 Section into the connector very hard and it always stays exactly where it was put. To remove it, I often put the gooseneck and brush on the ground, put my foot on the top section of the gooseneck and pull and twist No:1 Section out.  This is because in use, the joint usually becomes firmer. 

Also, an important point as mentioned in the manual is never to PTFE the top joint on Section No:1.

[Captain Scarlet]

Yes, I noticed that in the manual. I have never used PTFE on the top section. Luke

[Paul Coleman]

hi all,

i'm looking for a bit of advice from people that have either and also what would people buy if given the choice?

superlite 2- from gardiners

ultra lite- from emporium

all comments welcome, both pro's and con's ffor both poles.

many thanks jon

Hard tp pass an opinion really as I've only used SL2.
SL2 seems fine for certain types of work or the odd difficult window(s) on some of my domestics.  A bit fiddly to set up but otherwise OK - especially since I colour coded the sections.

[Paul Coleman]

It's interesting that you mention the top spinning as well.  Personally, I've never had this problem.  I always push the No:1 Section into the connector very hard and it always stays exactly where it was put. To remove it, I often put the gooseneck and brush on the ground, put my foot on the top section of the gooseneck and pull and twist No:1 Section out.  This is because in use, the joint usually becomes firmer. 

Also, an important point as mentioned in the manual is never to PTFE the top joint on Section No:1.

A slight change of tack to the thread if you'll indulge a for a moment.  I've discovered that the manual was printed with bubble jet or inkjet meaning that the ink runs when the paper gets wet.  Of course, working with water, I've managed to make the ink run.  So Alex, would it be possible to attach the file for the manual to an email so that I can print it out on my colour laser printer please?  Even better, may I suggest that you make it available for download on your website?  Not a complaint.  Just a small suggestion to help things run even more smoothly.

[Captain Scarlet]

A slight change of tack to the thread if you'll indulge a for a moment.  I've discovered that the manual was printed with bubble jet or inkjet meaning that the ink runs when the paper gets wet.  Of course, working with water, I've managed to make the ink run.  So Alex, would it be possible to attach the file for the manual to an email so that I can print it out on my colour laser printer please?  Even better, may I suggest that you make it available for download on your website?  Not a complaint.  Just a small suggestion to help things run even more smoothly.

had exactly the same thing happen, trying to follow the manual word for word in all weather! Luke

[Alex Gardiner]

I will try and convert it into a .pdf document and make it available either as a download or as an email.