As has been said, for fan jets to operate at their best, to obtain a good spread on the fan of water you need a decent flowrate.
If the brush has been adapted properly (Peter Fogwill does so) you will get a really well contained fan trapped in by the bristles.
This allows you to cover a window in fewer strokes as the entire width of the brush is covered thanks to the fan of water.
Another thing to remember is that whilst cleaning the window, whether with a brush with fan jets or needle jets, the entire time you are cleaning you are also rinsing, you are using a continuous flow of clean water.
On regular maintenance cleans the windows should not really be very dirty, and once you know what you are doing, rinsing OFF the glass should not be necessary most of the time.
times when I will rinse off the glass may be on an old sash window with poor paintwork, with the needle jets I can hold off the glass a few inches and guide the water onto just the top edges of the window panes themselves without going over the paintwork.
Or it may be an old sash window with a set of narrow panes either side of the main sashes, these can be tricky to fit the brush into, and holding off the glass can allow me to direct the water up into the corners of the window pane during cleaning so that I can ensure the glass is wet enough for the bristles to clean it effectively, I'll also then do the same after I've washed the pane, ensuring that I've rinsed properly.
If frames are particularly dirty I may well rinse off the glass if i think there is a risk of spotting if I don't do so.
you CAN work faster with fan jets, and if you never had to lift off the glass to rinse, if you carry enough water then they would win.
But my water now goes almost 3 times further than before, and having the ability to be more accurate under certain rinsing conditions makes the pencil jets the winner for me.
Ian
Poll