[Alistair@AWC]

Hi Guys,

I hate electrics almost as much as I hate the instructions that come with them!

I am fitting a switch (standard lighting switch) between my pump and battery has anyone got the knowledge to give me straight forward instruction, talking in terms of red wire/black wire

Thanks

Al

[jeff1]

Connect the black wire diirectly from the pump to your power supply.

Connect the red wire from the pump to any connection of your switch (provided your light switch has 2 connections only) then another piece of wire from the other connection to your power supply.

[Alistair@AWC]

Cheers Jeff,

precise and to the point

good man 

Regards

Al

[Davie T]

I find that the metal toggle switches available in car accessory shops are ideal.
You can easily flick it on / off and more importantly, from afar you can easily see if it is on or off.
Important when buying a switch that there are only 2connection points at the back.
Remember to fit an inline fuse!

[m.b.s.]

thats what i have just done works a treat wireing right what jeff said mines the plastic one not the metal one and mine has 2 connectors

[jeff1]

thats what i have just done works a treat wireing right what jeff said mines the plastic one not the metal one and mine has 2 connectors

With just 2 connectors on a switch wire it as I stated.

[Alistair@AWC]

Hi Guys,

The last time I fitted a switch it was a white plastic household one but looked just what it was, so now ive bought the big grey outdoor (waterproof) which will take a few more knocks from B&Q for about £7.50

I have had a varistream fitted but just found that I turn it up full all the time so now I switching to a 2 man system im just gonna fit a couple of switches

[jeff1]

Hi Guys,

The last time I fitted a switch it was a white plastic household one but looked just what it was, so now ive bought the big grey outdoor (waterproof) which will take a few more knocks from B&Q for about £7.50

I have had a varistream fitted but just found that I turn it up full all the time so now I switching to a 2 man system im just gonna fit a couple of switches

Why are you turning your varistream up to full all the time, mine is set at around the 10 oclock range, and my water blasts out.?

[Alistair@AWC]

Hi Jeff,

Bit of a fib there, its not actually a varistream its the other one but I cant remember the name of it and its too cold and dark to go and check,

I used to keep it on quite a low setting, but I found by turning it up full I clean much quicker and because im cleaning each window quicker I dont really much extra water.

Regards

Al

[J. Deans]

One thing I should point out.

Standard household light switches are designed to operate at a higher voltage, but at a much lower current.

With a battery, you are on a lower voltage, but a much higher current.
You risk overheating the switch and rapid contact deterioration - which could cause arcing - and is a fire hazard.

A low voltage, high amperage switch - such as an automotive switch - should be used.

It will wire-up the same as was explained, and be safer in the long run. (and last longer)

[jeff1]

One thing I should point out.

Standard household light switches are designed to operate at a higher voltage, but at a much lower current.

With a battery, you are on a lower voltage, but a much higher current.
You risk overheating the switch and rapid contact deterioration - which could cause arcing - and is a fire hazard.

A low voltage, high amperage switch - such as an automotive switch - should be used.

It will wire-up the same as was explained, and be safer in the long run.

The external one Al has just bought ,will run for years on his system.
I do agree with what your saying, but a pump is low current less than 8 amps  and the switch is more than capable of running it.

[Alistair@AWC]

You risk overheating the switch and rapid contact deterioration - which could cause arcing - and is a fire hazard.

Im also fitting a 1000L tank so I be carrying about as much water as a fire engine 

[jeff1]

You risk overheating the switch and rapid contact deterioration - which could cause arcing - and is a fire hazard.

Im also fitting a 1000L tank so I be carrying about as much water as a fire engine 

I won't go much on your pump and hose in your fire engine Al 

[J. Deans]

Lol so you are safe.

I was concerned that others may think it ok to use household light switches as a cheap and convenient way to switch anything on and off. They are not and qualified advice should be sought - even for low voltage applications - because higher currents are usually always needed.

[jeff1]

Lol so you are safe.

I was concerned that others may think it ok to use household light switches as a cheap and convenient way to switch anything on and off. They are not and qualified advice should be sought - even for low voltage applications - because higher currents are usually always needed.

Good bit of advice, also make sure the terminals are tight, loose terminals also cause arching.

The traditional light-switch mechanism is a toggle mechanism that provides "snap-action" through the use of an "overcenter" geometry. The switch handle does not control the contacts directly, but through an intermediate arrangement of springs and levers. Turning the handle does not initially cause any motion of the contacts, which in fact continue to be positively held open by the force of the spring. Turning the handle gradually stretches the spring. When the mechanism passes over the center point, the spring energy is released and the spring, rather than the handle, drives the contacts rapidly and forcibly to the closed position with an audible "snapping" sound. The snap-action switch is a mechanical example of negative resistance.

This mechanism is very safe, reliable, and durable, but produces a loud snap or click. (Many people have at some point in their lives made an attempt to reduce this noise by operating the handle slowly or gingerly. Of course this is to no avail, since the very purpose of the mechanism is to insure that the electrical portion of the switch always operates rapidly and forcefully — and noisily — regardless of how the handle is manipulated).

[J. Deans]

Anyway, I don't know how this diagram will come out on here - but here goes:

The first method is the way described above for a straight forward wiring circuit.



The second method is only slightly more complicated, but is much more suitable for low voltage - high current applications.
This way, the relay is designed to switch the higher currents and the switch is only to power the relay.
Both of these can be bought at any motorist type shop like: Halfords or McGanns and even some garages for a few quid.

This system is even used for switching the headlights on in your vehicle, amongst other things. It is also safer because of the lower currents needed at the initial switch point and all the heavy duty stuff is kept out of the passenger compartment - reducing the risk of fire.
You say the pump draws 8 amps - so a relay capable of switching about 10 - 15 amps would be ideal.



Hope I haven't bored you all to death with this?

[Alistair@AWC]

Right you guys have completely lost me now     

[J. Deans]

I hate electrics almost as much as I hate the instructions that come with them!

Sorry, the bit about the instructions completely slipped my mind