[tlwcs]

Out to the van and the central locking to the tailgate has failed.
Front and side loading doors all work, but not the tailgate. Access through the side door is very limited due to the tank. The van is set up to work from the rear.
There is no key hole on the tailgate and no handle/lock on the inside. (There is on the side load door.)
So no work today and lot’s phone calls to see if I can get it in somewhere.
2018 VW caddy owned from new, have toyed with changing it, this may be the time to move to electric.
Tony

[zesty]

Mine went a few years ago, managed to get it open eventually by keep trying. Then replaced the catch unit. All good since then.

Hopefully you can get it sorted, it is annoying.

[dazmond]

Out to the van and the central locking to the tailgate has failed.
Front and side loading doors all work, but not the tailgate. Access through the side door is very limited due to the tank. The van is set up to work from the rear.
There is no key hole on the tailgate and no handle/lock on the inside. (There is on the side load door.)
So no work today and lot’s phone calls to see if I can get it in somewhere.
2018 VW caddy owned from new, have toyed with changing it, this may be the time to move to electric.
Tony

Keep trying and change the battery in the fob. You ll find it'll open eventually then get it booked in at your local auto electrician

[tlwcs]

 VW say most likely it’s the micro switch but it will be £162 just to go on the diagnostic machine.
Next available date 8th April lol
I have changed the key fob battery

[Simon Trapani]

Still cheaper than going electric. Annoying as it is, it’s not necessarily a reason to switch to electric.

[tlwcs]

Still cheaper than going electric. Annoying as it is, it’s not necessarily a reason to switch to electric.

Maybe, I haven’t done the figures. I normally buy new every 5 years, I’ve had this one 7.
The local  garage if he can get the micro switch that’s out of stock locally, will fit it tomorrow or Monday

[Scottish Cleaning Service]

If electrical then I always remove the van's battery. Have a cup of tea and then replace it. It usually resets itself. 😉

[The Jester of Wibbly]

Had same issue.  Lock mechanism failed and needed replacing.   Simple job for a garage.

[Stoots]

Im asuming you cant get into the van through the side door ?

If you can you`ll probably be able to take the door cards off and find a way to release the latch

[tlwcs]

Im asuming you cant get into the van through the side door ?

If you can you`ll probably be able to take the door cards off and find a way to release the latch

It opens but the 350 tank sits close to it with the electric reel sits front of that. It’s doable but not for a big fella.
Should know if the parts are with the garage tomorrow

[Spruce]

Im asuming you cant get into the van through the side door ?

If you can you`ll probably be able to take the door cards off and find a way to release the latch

It opens but the 350 tank sits close to it with the electric reel sits front of that. It’s doable but not for a big fella.
Should know if the parts are with the garage tomorrow

Could also be the wires that run near the hinges. Opening and closing the tailgate can eventually cause those wires to break.

[Spruce]

The central locking on the rear doors of my van have been working intermittently these past 4 weeks.

I found 2 broken wires and a third on its way to breaking in the wiring harness at the back doors. All 5 wires replaced over the weekend and all working again.

[tlwcs]

And the prize goes to Spruce, no surprise there eh!

The mechanic fitted a new lock/latch that was at the bottom of the tailgate with no effect.
He then sent me to his mate, an auto electrician who diagnosed the broken wire where they come through the body and into the door. Apparently it’s common as the wires go stiff?

I got away lightly apart from the loss of earnings, that I will catch up.
£50 lock
£30 drink for auto sparky (it’s what he asked for!)
No charge from the mechanic for the gaining access into the van, strip down and re assemble.
I gave him a good drink though.

Back at it tomorrow but not sure whether I’m happy or not!

[Spruce]

And the prize goes to Spruce, no surprise there eh!

The mechanic fitted a new lock/latch that was at the bottom of the tailgate with no effect.
He then sent me to his mate, an auto electrician who diagnosed the broken wire where they come through the body and into the door. Apparently it’s common as the wires go stiff?

I got away lightly apart from the loss of earnings, that I will catch up.
£50 lock
£30 drink for auto sparky (it’s what he asked for!)
No charge from the mechanic for the gaining access into the van, strip down and re assemble.
I gave him a good drink though.

Back at it tomorrow but not sure whether I’m happy or not!

What amazes me is that the insulation sheath around the copper wire becomes very stiff, as you say. It wasn't cold on Saturday when I did the job, so I don't know why it's so stiff. We live in a cold country, so why don't they sell wire suitable for this country with more flexible insulation. It looked like someone had been there before me. The harness has been cut, and different colour wiring has been spliced into the original harness. I've had the van 5 years, and the van is 12 years old, so I hope this repair is the last time it has to be done.

For me it was either the wiring harness or the central locking actuator. As the actuator was working fine on the side sliding door, I knew the problem was at the back if it was the wiring harness. TBH, I decided to focus on the harness first, as that was the cheapest option. Also, the central locking actuator worked sometimes and sometimes not. A meter of 5 core cable cost £5.65, so that was the place to start as it was the easiest option to investigate and the most likely.

[tlwcs]

And the prize goes to Spruce, no surprise there eh!

The mechanic fitted a new lock/latch that was at the bottom of the tailgate with no effect.
He then sent me to his mate, an auto electrician who diagnosed the broken wire where they come through the body and into the door. Apparently it’s common as the wires go stiff?

I got away lightly apart from the loss of earnings, that I will catch up.
£50 lock
£30 drink for auto sparky (it’s what he asked for!)
No charge from the mechanic for the gaining access into the van, strip down and re assemble.
I gave him a good drink though.

Back at it tomorrow but not sure whether I’m happy or not!

What amazes me is that the insulation sheath around the copper wire becomes very stiff, as you say. It wasn't cold on Saturday when I did the job, so I don't know why it's so stiff. We live in a cold country, so why don't they sell wire suitable for this country with more flexible insulation. It looked like someone had been there before me. The harness has been cut, and different colour wiring has been spliced into the original harness. I've had the van 5 years, and the van is 12 years old, so I hope this repair is the last time it has to be done.

For me it was either the wiring harness or the central locking actuator. As the actuator was working fine on the side sliding door, I knew the problem was at the back if it was the wiring harness. TBH, I decided to focus on the harness first, as that was the cheapest option. Also, the central locking actuator worked sometimes and sometimes not. A meter of 5 core cable cost £5.65, so that was the place to start as it was the easiest option to investigate and the most likely.

The electrician said as an option, which I’ll probably take, is to replace all the wires that run through the hinges.
I was lucky to been seen straight away yesterday on the mechanic’s recommendation, but if and when it happens again I could be waiting until they have a space in the workshop. Preventative would be on 1 of my down days.
Thanks all!

[Spruce]

And the prize goes to Spruce, no surprise there eh!

The mechanic fitted a new lock/latch that was at the bottom of the tailgate with no effect.
He then sent me to his mate, an auto electrician who diagnosed the broken wire where they come through the body and into the door. Apparently it’s common as the wires go stiff?

I got away lightly apart from the loss of earnings, that I will catch up.
£50 lock
£30 drink for auto sparky (it’s what he asked for!)
No charge from the mechanic for the gaining access into the van, strip down and re assemble.
I gave him a good drink though.

Back at it tomorrow but not sure whether I’m happy or not!

What amazes me is that the insulation sheath around the copper wire becomes very stiff, as you say. It wasn't cold on Saturday when I did the job, so I don't know why it's so stiff. We live in a cold country, so why don't they sell wire suitable for this country with more flexible insulation. It looked like someone had been there before me. The harness has been cut, and different colour wiring has been spliced into the original harness. I've had the van 5 years, and the van is 12 years old, so I hope this repair is the last time it has to be done.

For me it was either the wiring harness or the central locking actuator. As the actuator was working fine on the side sliding door, I knew the problem was at the back if it was the wiring harness. TBH, I decided to focus on the harness first, as that was the cheapest option. Also, the central locking actuator worked sometimes and sometimes not. A meter of 5 core cable cost £5.65, so that was the place to start as it was the easiest option to investigate and the most likely.

The electrician said as an option, which I’ll probably take, is to replace all the wires that run through the hinges.
I was lucky to been seen straight away yesterday on the mechanic’s recommendation, but if and when it happens again I could be waiting until they have a space in the workshop. Preventative would be on 1 of my down days.
Thanks all!

You may get away with just replacing the faulty wire.
About 10 years ago I purchased a Citroen Xsara estate which my son now drives. When I bought it the rear demister heating element in the rear window didn't work.
That was a break in the wiring harness between the tailgate and the body. I just spliced in a section on the faulty cable. It's worked fine ever since as has all the other wires..

[Scottish Cleaning Service]

I had a Peugeot 306 and 21 wires went through the drivers door. Most started breaking because the wire loom was to short and little play. Peugeot knew and gave out a Op tec note but no recall. French cars are the worst for cable breaks and driver's door usually the first one to break.

I tape Wheeler Dealers with Mike Brewer and my mechanic mate also watches it. You begin to gain alot of knowledge about the reason cars are built the way they are. They even cover stuff with anti-tamper resin so you need to buy a new one. One slowly builds up info about 80% of parts that need changing or fixed. Saved me a fortune on my van bar buying plenty of tools. Well worth watching and as I said before a 3 month mechanic course at a near by college is a winner for us.

The best episode was a black Maserati car they were fixing, well worth watching.