[Innocence & Experience]

Can anyone on here tell me how you 'pre heat' the water on a V4 Thermopure as opposed to heating on demand.
On their website they say this system is capable of it but can't see how!

[Ched]

At a guess just connect your hose reel outlet back to the tank and run your pump. That way the water from tank flows through the heater back to tank. Over time it will heat the whole tank. I would say you can do that on any heated system, maybe they have an automated return to tank system.

[windowswashed]

It's simply recycling hot water back through the tank

[Splash and dash]

All thermopures do this if you aren’t using the hose reel there is a pressure relief valve that opens putting the water back into the tank

[dazmond]

Can anyone on here tell me how you 'pre heat' the water on a V4 Thermopure as opposed to heating on demand.
On their website they say this system is capable of it but can't see how!

The same as any diesel heater used for window cleaning.....

I pre heat my water so it's hot for my first job of the day 🔥

I start the van first thing then fire up my heater(the return valves are plugged in back to tank)so my hose reel is nice and warm by the time I drive to my first job(usually around 15 mins away).

The only difference with the thermopure is ionics fit a valve that automatically bleeds hot water back to your tank when you shut your water off at brush end.I have to do this manually between jobs by plugging in the return valves to stop my heater going through its shut down cycle.

[Spruce]

Can anyone on here tell me how you 'pre heat' the water on a V4 Thermopure as opposed to heating on demand.
On their website they say this system is capable of it but can't see how!

Why would you want to do this, if I may ask?

The problem with the Ionics system is that it only heats water for one operator. The other operator using a 2 man system gets cold water.

Imho it will take a long time to heat the water in the tank so 2 operators can have hot water.  The other issue is that warm water going back to the tank  is at the upper level, where your pumps draw water from the bottom of the tank where it's cold, especially when the van isn't moving much.

Any warm water left in the tank at the end of the working  day is wasted.

This is why I believe having a second water to water plate heat exchanger with mixer valves is a much better solution, as both operators can have warm water on demand.

[Scottish Cleaning Service]

Can anyone on here tell me how you 'pre heat' the water on a V4 Thermopure as opposed to heating on demand.
On their website they say this system is capable of it but can't see how!

Why would you want to do this, if I may ask?

The problem with the Ionics system is that it only heats water for one operator. The other operator using a 2 man system gets cold water.

Imho it will take a long time to heat the water in the tank so 2 operators can have hot water.  The other issue is that warm water going back to the tank  is at the upper level, where your pumps draw water from the bottom of the tank where it's cold, especially when the van isn't moving much.

Any warm water left in the tank at the end of the working  day is wasted.

This is why I believe having a second water to water plate heat exchanger with mixer valves is a much better solution, as both operators can have warm water on demand.

Looks like the Grippatank design is the best for hot water. All you do is plug in the reels to the back to tank hoses and the hoses heat up.
This is when hot water makes perfect sense and a pleasure to work with.

[robert mitchell]

Can anyone on here tell me how you 'pre heat' the water on a V4 Thermopure as opposed to heating on demand.
On their website they say this system is capable of it but can't see how!

Why would you want to do this, if I may ask?

The problem with the Ionics system is that it only heats water for one operator. The other operator using a 2 man system gets cold water.

Imho it will take a long time to heat the water in the tank so 2 operators can have hot water.  The other issue is that warm water going back to the tank  is at the upper level, where your pumps draw water from the bottom of the tank where it's cold, especially when the van isn't moving much.

Any warm water left in the tank at the end of the working  day is wasted.

This is why I believe having a second water to water plate heat exchanger with mixer valves is a much better solution, as both operators can have warm water on demand.

I believe the point of the valve is to stop the webasto from cycling on and off during the day if you stop for a chat or whatever , makes the heater last longer as it doesnt get coked up .  The preheating would only really work on a smallish tank .

[Scottish Cleaning Service]

I put my heater on and get ready to go out 10mins later. The time I'm at the first job both reels are hot and easy to work with. Great idea and costs less than a fiver a day.

[Innocence & Experience]

Thank-you all for taking the time to respond.
I was only asking the question as the way its worded on Ionics website appears to suggest that you can heat pre-heat to aid with the prevention of frost damage when the temperature drops (perhaps, so i thought, with an inbuilt immersion).
It really is a fantastic bit of kit but unfortunately does not have a 'frost stat' to prevent any damage in sub zero temperatures and can't understand why Ionics have produced a state of the art system IMHO but you have to pop a £20 radiator, or similar, in the back to protect it from damage!

[dazmond]

Thank-you all for taking the time to respond.
I was only asking the question as the way its worded on Ionics website appears to suggest that you can heat pre-heat to aid with the prevention of frost damage when the temperature drops (perhaps, so i thought, with an inbuilt immersion).
It really is a fantastic bit of kit but unfortunately does not have a 'frost stat' to prevent any damage in sub zero temperatures and can't understand why Ionics have produced a state of the art system IMHO but you have to pop a £20 radiator, or similar, in the back to protect it from damage!

Personally I prefer to put an oil filled radiator in the back than relying  on the frost stat...

The problem with the frost stat is it's fairly loud and can come on 3 or 4 times in the night using fuel and electric. Mine used to wake me up(and the neighbours sometimes)...

[Spruce]

Thank-you all for taking the time to respond.
I was only asking the question as the way its worded on Ionics website appears to suggest that you can heat pre-heat to aid with the prevention of frost damage when the temperature drops (perhaps, so i thought, with an inbuilt immersion).
It really is a fantastic bit of kit but unfortunately does not have a 'frost stat' to prevent any damage in sub zero temperatures and can't understand why Ionics have produced a state of the art system IMHO but you have to pop a £20 radiator, or similar, in the back to protect it from damage!

I have an old Heatwave diesel heater which has a stainless steel enclosure. Believe it or not, there isn't that much heat that radiates from the heater enclosure, even when running during the day.

My 650 litre tank is fitted width ways between the wheel arches just forward of the rear axle on my Peugeot Boxer SWB van. This means that I have a usable space between the bulkhead and the tank. This is where I have fitted the diesel heater. I also have a usable space between the rear doors and the tank. This is where the hose reels reside.

When my frost protection linked to my diesel heater activates at 3 degrees, there isn't enough heat from the diesel heater's enclosure to keep the hose reels from freezing up. The core water temperature reaches about 80 degrees before the frost protection deactivates.

I have an 800 watt electric heater that goes in the back of the van. It does to a certain extent influence the temperature at the front of the tank, but the frost protection attached to the heater triggered at 3.40am this morning. The temperature in the heater is 15.6 degrees at 9.00am this morning.

So as per Daz, I wouldn't trust the electric heater to fully protect my diesel heater in a cold snap like we are experiencing now.

Spring Europe to make the Frostat fitted by other suppliers and is an easy add on fit to any diesel heater.   

The internal heating circuit of the heater is protected against the cold with antifreeze. But the issue is the second circuit in the plate to plate heat exchangers. The one side will have antifreeze, but the other side that carries the pure water to the brush head doesn't have antifreeze. Its the heat exchangers that the Froststat protects.

[Splash and dash]

Thank-you all for taking the time to respond.
I was only asking the question as the way its worded on Ionics website appears to suggest that you can heat pre-heat to aid with the prevention of frost damage when the temperature drops (perhaps, so i thought, with an inbuilt immersion).
It really is a fantastic bit of kit but unfortunately does not have a 'frost stat' to prevent any damage in sub zero temperatures and can't understand why Ionics have produced a state of the art system IMHO but you have to pop a £20 radiator, or similar, in the back to protect it from damage!

Personally I prefer to put an oil filled radiator in the back than relying  on the frost stat...

The problem with the frost stat is it's fairly loud and can come on 3 or 4 times in the night using fuel and electric. Mine used to wake me up(and the neighbours sometimes)...

Just fit a silencer in the exhaust pipe that will make it much quieter