[KS Cleaning]

It's actually upside down my mixer valve compared to pic on the website

Did you get it from Australia?

[Spruce]

Here is an Ionics diesel heater without the mixer valve.

The black hoses at the back are the internal hot water system. The black hose to the left in the front is the hose that supplies cold water from the pump into the heat exchanger. The yellow hose carries hot water from the heat exchanger.  It runs up to a pressure relief valve set at 65psi.  Normally, that relief valve remains closed directing water to the hose reel and then off to the brush head.

When you close your tap/Univalve, the pressure builds up and blows off the relief valve, directing that hot water back into the tank.
The wfp pump runs all the time.

This way the diesel heater remains working all the time, providing the flow rate of the pump is set high enough.

[Innocence & Experience]

Here is an Ionics diesel heater without the mixer valve.

The black hoses at the back are the internal hot water system. The black hose to the left in the front is the hose that supplies cold water from the pump into the heat exchanger. The yellow hose carries hot water from the heat exchanger.  It runs up to a pressure relief valve set at 65psi.  Normally, that relief valve remains closed directing water to the hose reel and then off to the brush head.

When you close your tap/Univalve, the pressure builds up and blows off the relief valve, directing that hot water back into the tank.
The wfp pump runs all the time.

This way the diesel heater remains working all the time, providing the flow rate of the pump is set high enough.

Spruce
Ive recently started using an Ionic V4 Thermopure and playing around with the settings to get the best out of it.
I use a uni valve, and when turned off, the controller dead ends - should the wfp pump continue (and not dead end) to pump the hot water back into the tank,  enabling the diesel heater to remain working?
My flow rate is set at 50 and controller calibration is 28.

[dazmond]

This came out of  the inside of my black mixer valve along with the spring and plastic plunger.i just screwed the black k nob back on today without these components inside thinking it would raise the temperature of the heater but to no avail!

My heater now seems to be on a low setting so only getting luke warm water with hose out(40c coiled hose on the reel instead of 65c-70c)....

I've put these components back into the valve hole but water still just warm instead of hot🔥

It makes no difference whether these are inside or not🤷‍♂️

You need to 'block' the cold water hose going to the mixer valve. You will then divert all the cold water through the heat exchanger. I wouldn't even bother, tbh.

Yes, this locktite is expensive, but there is no variant of locktite that isn't.  It's the king (or 3M) of thread lockers and sealants.

I've tried to use blue thread locker before as a thread sealer. It didn't work. Neither did a thread sealer plumbers use. I phoned Purefreedom, and they told me about 572 as the only stuff they found to work, long term. Mine as been running 5 years now and no leaks.

It's a bit of a ballache getting to my heater,I have to take my heavy PF electric reel and plywood out and unscrew 4 bolts on the heater cover.

I think I'll take my time and make sure all 3 fittings are tight,leave to cure for 48 hours then fire up the heater and hopefully that will have solved the problem.

I don't understand why they put a mixer valve on these heaters in the first place?🙄

Full heat setting is all I want all year round.

I don't know anyone who's not had a problem with these valves coming off on their diesel heaters!

[Spruce]

Here is an Ionics diesel heater without the mixer valve.

The black hoses at the back are the internal hot water system. The black hose to the left in the front is the hose that supplies cold water from the pump into the heat exchanger. The yellow hose carries hot water from the heat exchanger.  It runs up to a pressure relief valve set at 65psi.  Normally, that relief valve remains closed directing water to the hose reel and then off to the brush head.

When you close your tap/Univalve, the pressure builds up and blows off the relief valve, directing that hot water back into the tank.
The wfp pump runs all the time.

This way the diesel heater remains working all the time, providing the flow rate of the pump is set high enough.

Spruce
Ive recently started using an Ionic V4 Thermopure and playing around with the settings to get the best out of it.
I use a uni valve, and when turned off, the controller dead ends - should the wfp pump continue (and not dead end) to pump the hot water back into the tank,  enabling the diesel heater to remain working?
My flow rate is set at 50 and controller calibration is 28.

You will need to raise your controller's calibration.

The pump's calibration setting needs to translate into a pressure setting higher than 65psi to bleed that hot water back into the tank when you activate your Univalve.

Splash and Dash will confirm and correct where necessary.

If you look at this photo, the pressure relief valve is the one on the right on the yellow hose. There is another yellow piece of hose that goes to the top of the tank.

I'm not 100% sure what the other inline fitting is on the left; something to do with a water temperature maybe?

[Innocence & Experience]

Thats really helpful, thank you Spruce

[Spruce]

This came out of  the inside of my black mixer valve along with the spring and plastic plunger.i just screwed the black k nob back on today without these components inside thinking it would raise the temperature of the heater but to no avail!

My heater now seems to be on a low setting so only getting luke warm water with hose out(40c coiled hose on the reel instead of 65c-70c)....

I've put these components back into the valve hole but water still just warm instead of hot🔥

It makes no difference whether these are inside or not🤷‍♂️

You need to 'block' the cold water hose going to the mixer valve. You will then divert all the cold water through the heat exchanger. I wouldn't even bother, tbh.

Yes, this locktite is expensive, but there is no variant of locktite that isn't.  It's the king (or 3M) of thread lockers and sealants.

I've tried to use blue thread locker before as a thread sealer. It didn't work. Neither did a thread sealer plumbers use. I phoned Purefreedom, and they told me about 572 as the only stuff they found to work, long term. Mine as been running 5 years now and no leaks.

It's a bit of a ballache getting to my heater,I have to take my heavy PF electric reel and plywood out and unscrew 4 bolts on the heater cover.

I think I'll take my time and make sure all 3 fittings are tight,leave to cure for 48 hours then fire up the heater and hopefully that will have solved the problem.

I don't understand why they put a mixer valve on these heaters in the first place?🙄

Full heat setting is all I want all year round.

I don't know anyone who's not had a problem with these valves coming off on their diesel heaters!

A 9.2kw diesel heater won't supply two window cleaners with piping hot water; more so in the winter, when the water in the tank is around 5 to 6 degrees. So a two man system needs to share the heat. That's done by mixer valves.

Today, two of us were working with nearly all our hoses out. My flow setting was 4 (equivalent to 40) and my son's flow setting was 3. The diesel heater was working at full load and neither of us had piping hot water - it was barely luke warm at the brush head.

This is why Ionics have designed their system the way they have. But with a 2 man system, only one operator gets the hot water.

Just a word of caution. Ionics have a summer and winter heat setting.  If they didn't feel the operator needed some control of the temperature of the hot water, they wouldn't have included that setting switch, imho.

[Innocence & Experience]

Thats really helpful, thank you Spruce
[/quoteJust to clarify Spruce, would you recomend increasing  the calibration in small increments until the controller no longer dead ends,  therfore the pressure valve would have opened diverting the hot water back to the tank.

[dazmond]

The only time I've turned my heater off is on a hot summers day at lunchtime as its too hot to even hold the hose.so I suppose turning it down to min heat setting would be OK.

In winter all diesel heaters should be running on full heat as lots of heat is lost through the hose as well as the starting temperature of the water being a lot lower.

I've noticed my hose is a lot stiffer and less manageable than usual due to the min setting.its not quite as bad as using cold water but it's only marginally better.

[Spruce]

Thats really helpful, thank you Spruce
[/quoteJust to clarify Spruce, would you recomend increasing  the calibration in small increments until the controller no longer dead ends,  therfore the pressure valve would have opened diverting the hot water back to the tank.

Yes.

[dazmond]

I don't think I need the nut and washer do I Spruce?it looks like the bit that goes into the heat exchanger just screws in when I look at my heater?

[dazmond]

So when i turn the valve upwards it reaches a stop.does this mean that the heater is now on the absolute min setting?how far do I move it downwards before it's on full heat?(as there's no stop turning it downwards).this is how it came off in the first place 6 years ago as I turned it downwards too much and it came off in my hand.I don't want to make the same mistake again.a quarter turn,half a turn?

[Ched]

I assume you realise how the valve works?
Basically your pump feeds water from tank to the left side input of the heat exchanger (by the brass tee). The tee feeds to the thermostatic valve which allows cold water to be mixed in with the hot water coming out of the heat exchanger. So if you wanted full heat then remove the valve and screw the angled black hose directly to the heat exchanger and blank the braided silver hose coming from right hand brass tee.
The valve is just an automated mixer tap that controls the outlet temp by varying the amount of cold that's mixed into the hot water outlet.
Hope that helps you to understand how it works.

[Splash & dash]

If you take of the black k nob off  and look at the plastic threaded insert in the brass housing unscrew the incert  untill you just start to see the threads on it  sticking out of the housing that will be maximum heat . Don’t have more than one thread showing or it is likely to come out , if you feel happier don’t have any threads outside the brass housing this will also give you nearly maximum temperature, this is what I have done with mine  when I adjust the temperature hotter I always take the black k nob off when adjusting so I don’t go to far .

[dazmond]

I assume you realise how the valve works?
Basically your pump feeds water from tank to the left side input of the heat exchanger (by the brass tee). The tee feeds to the thermostatic valve which allows cold water to be mixed in with the hot water coming out of the heat exchanger. So if you wanted full heat then remove the valve and screw the angled black hose directly to the heat exchanger and blank the braided silver hose coming from right hand brass tee.
The valve is just an automated mixer tap that controls the outlet temp by varying the amount of cold that's mixed into the hot water outlet.
Hope that helps you to understand how it works.

I've no idea how it works.ive tried to find a diagram online to see how it works but can't find anything....

[dazmond]

If you take of the black k nob off  and look at the plastic threaded insert in the brass housing unscrew the incert  untill you just start to see the threads on it  sticking out of the housing that will be maximum heat . Don’t have more than one thread showing or it is likely to come out , if you feel happier don’t have any threads outside the brass housing this will also give you nearly maximum temperature, this is what I have done with mine  when I adjust the temperature hotter I always take the black k nob off when adjusting so I don’t go to far .

It's a crappy design....you shouldn't have to do that to adjust the settings but thanks anyway!👍

[Splash & dash]

If you take of the black k nob off  and look at the plastic threaded insert in the brass housing unscrew the incert  untill you just start to see the threads on it  sticking out of the housing that will be maximum heat . Don’t have more than one thread showing or it is likely to come out , if you feel happier don’t have any threads outside the brass housing this will also give you nearly maximum temperature, this is what I have done with mine  when I adjust the temperature hotter I always take the black k nob off when adjusting so I don’t go to far .

It's a crappy design....you shouldn't have to do that to adjust the settings but thanks anyway!👍

I totally agree , it should work like a tap in my opinion be able to turn it to maximum or minimum without it coming off .

[Spruce]

I can only turn my temperature control k nob for one revolution. It then 'locks' up on that same restrictor lug.

I didn't say this, but you can fractionally adjust the mixer valve. If you turn the k nob in the plus direction, it will come to a stop. If you carefully remove the k nob and turn it (in the air  ) about 45 degrees back and then refit it, you will be able to turn the k nob in the + direction another 1/8 turn.

Yes Daz, the nut and olive aren't required.

[Splash & dash]

I can only turn my temperature control k nob for one revolution. It then 'locks' up on that same restrictor lug.

Theses ones will screw all the way in to turn the heat down but if you unscrew it it will come off there is no posative stop

[Spruce]

I can only turn my temperature control k nob for one revolution. It then 'locks' up on that same restrictor lug.

Theses ones will screw all the way in to turn the heat down but if you unscrew it it will come off there is no posative stop

I've just been out to my van and I can only turn the k nob in one full revolution. The stop happens both ways.