[zesty]

As above.

I use the WFP link - formerly the ‘one shot’ radio remote to turn water on and off, as well as change pump speed etc.

Is this incompatible with hot water systems?

I see that the hot boxes comes with pump controller already, so I’m guessing it can’t be used with other pump controllers, including my WFP link controller?

[NWH]

The only thing that’s different on the controller with a heater is frost stat option turning the flow down won’t turn off the heater but if you turn the controller off it would turn the heater off.

[NWH]

Univalve works the same why would you need to completely keep turning the controller off.

[zesty]

You don’t turn the controller off, you press a button and the pump pauses, you can turn it complete off if you want, as well as change calibration and pump speed. It’s a good bit of kit. I’ve always used the one shot, and now the new(ish) WFP link.

I’ve never bothered with univalves, but might have to if going the hot route.

[Spruce]

As above.

I use the WFP link - formerly the ‘one shot’ radio remote to turn water on and off, as well as change pump speed etc.

Is this incompatible with hot water systems?

I see that the hot boxes comes with pump controller already, so I’m guessing it can’t be used with other pump controllers, including my WFP link controller?

You need to fully understand how a hot water diesel heater works.

Simply, it's a hot water circuit with a header tank, a diesel fired boiler and a water to water plate heat exchanger. The boiler heats the water up in this internal water circuit. The heat exchanger has two 'compartments' separated from each other. The hot water passes through the heat exchanger through one compartment. The water from your pump to your brush is diverted through the other compartment. The cold water from your pump zaps the heat from the hot water in the other compartment, so warms the water to your brush head.

If you stop the water at your brush head by any means, all the happens is that the stationary water in the heat exchanger no longer zaps hot water from the hot water circuit.  The boiler doesn't heat the water directly going to your brush head like a tankless hot water gas boiler does.

A two man system has 2 heat exchangers.

https://www.alfalaval.my/products/heat-transfer/plate-heat-exchangers/gasketed-plate-and-frame-heat-exchangers/heat-exchanger/how-plate-heat-exchanger-work/

[p1w1]

Also, if you stop the water flow for too long the heater will shut down.

[Spruce]

You don’t turn the controller off, you press a button and the pump pauses, you can turn it complete off if you want, as well as change calibration and pump speed. It’s a good bit of kit. I’ve always used the one shot, and now the new(ish) WFP link.

I’ve never bothered with univalves, but might have to if going the hot route.

Your one shot will still work but a Univalve might be better. Your hose on your hose reel will get soft with hot water and will expand a tad. If you just stop the pump, it will take a while for the water pressure in the hose to drop and the hose to shrink back to its original size. So your jets will dribble water for a while after switch off.
A Univalve will just stop the water flow immediately.

[DJW]

Spruce, where have you been? There’s loads of threads that need adult replies on here instead of the forum clown!

[Spruce]

Also, if you stop the water flow for too long the heater will shut down.

Agree, But it doesn't matter how you stop the water flow. Stopping it for too long will cause the boiler to shut down, which is when our problems start. It takes power to restart the boiler which can deplete battery charge and if it's a regular occurrence, sooting up of the boiler internals.

[Spruce]

Spruce, where have you been? There’s loads of threads that need adult replies on here instead of the forum clown!

I struggle to keep up these days. The wife slipped when exiting a narrow boat on a one day cruise in Skepton in July and broke her hip. They operated and pinned (screwed) it together in Airedale hospital. This has failed and she is on the waiting list for a full hip replacement. So this means that I get the caring duties, the shopping duties and everything else hospital and doctor related because she can't do much and she can't drive like this.

Lots of things have taken a back seat and tbh, I'm just very tired.

Sorry.

[DJW]

Sorry to hear that Spruce.

[zesty]

You don’t turn the controller off, you press a button and the pump pauses, you can turn it complete off if you want, as well as change calibration and pump speed. It’s a good bit of kit. I’ve always used the one shot, and now the new(ish) WFP link.

I’ve never bothered with univalves, but might have to if going the hot route.

Your one shot will still work but a Univalve might be better. Your hose on your hose reel will get soft with hot water and will expand a tad. If you just stop the pump, it will take a while for the water pressure in the hose to drop and the hose to shrink back to its original size. So your jets will dribble water for a while after switch off.
A Univalve will just stop the water flow immediately.

That would happen with a univalve as well spruce, a non issue really as the water is only off for a few seconds or mins… it hasn’t been an issue for anyone on here so far.

I asked the question mainly because the hot systems have their own integrated controllers, so I’m not sure how easy/possible it would be to use an extra controller such as my WFP link. I doubt it’s been tried as so few people use the link.

Also the frost stat is part of the integrated controllers, so effectively they need to stay as are, this probably means the WFP link controller wouldn’t be particularly compatible as you’d have it as an extra controller, along side the integrated one(s)

[zesty]

Also, if you stop the water flow for too long the heater will shut down.

Agree, But it doesn't matter how you stop the water flow. Stopping it for too long will cause the boiler to shut down, which is when our problems start. It takes power to restart the boiler which can deplete battery charge and if it's a regular occurrence, sooting up of the boiler internals.

That’s a potential issue for me as I don’t do many houses in a row. So it would be start/stop a lot. My round is bigger houses spread over a a square mile at times.

[p1w1]

Also, if you stop the water flow for too long the heater will shut down.

Agree, But it doesn't matter how you stop the water flow. Stopping it for too long will cause the boiler to shut down, which is when our problems start. It takes power to restart the boiler which can deplete battery charge and if it's a regular occurrence, sooting up of the boiler internals.

That’s a potential issue for me as I don’t do many houses in a row. So it would be start/stop a lot. My round is bigger houses spread over a a square mile at times.

Thats easy to overcome, just have a return to your tank that you can plug your hose reel into between jobs to keep it running. Thats what I do.

[NWH]

If you circulate it too much or for too long it will be
window cracking hot in this weather trust me if you must work,this is when hot water systems come into their own when it’s 3-4ft of snow round houses so much so that you can’t stand up on tennis rackets lol.
Forget all the extra cleaning power hot water gives you on normal cold winter mornings in the UK what they were really designed for was melting
ski slopes in Switzerland 🇨🇭 🤣🤣🤣🤣 beam me up for goodness sake.

[dazmond]

Also, if you stop the water flow for too long the heater will shut down.

Agree, But it doesn't matter how you stop the water flow. Stopping it for too long will cause the boiler to shut down, which is when our problems start. It takes power to restart the boiler which can deplete battery charge and if it's a regular occurrence, sooting up of the boiler internals.

That’s a potential issue for me as I don’t do many houses in a row. So it would be start/stop a lot. My round is bigger houses spread over a a square mile at times.

All you do mate is plug into your return valves to recirculate in between jobs...

I have some days where I'm just cleaning 6 or 7  large stand alone jobs...works like a dream...

Once you go hot you ll never go back to cold in the winter...its so much nicer to use in the colder months

[dazmond]

As above.

I use the WFP link - formerly the ‘one shot’ radio remote to turn water on and off, as well as change pump speed etc.

Is this incompatible with hot water systems?

I see that the hot boxes comes with pump controller already, so I’m guessing it can’t be used with other pump controllers, including my WFP link controller?

Univalve all day long mate...

[Spruce]

You don’t turn the controller off, you press a button and the pump pauses, you can turn it complete off if you want, as well as change calibration and pump speed. It’s a good bit of kit. I’ve always used the one shot, and now the new(ish) WFP link.

I’ve never bothered with univalves, but might have to if going the hot route.

Your one shot will still work but a Univalve might be better. Your hose on your hose reel will get soft with hot water and will expand a tad. If you just stop the pump, it will take a while for the water pressure in the hose to drop and the hose to shrink back to its original size. So your jets will dribble water for a while after switch off.
A Univalve will just stop the water flow immediately.

That would happen with a univalve as well spruce, a non issue really as the water is only off for a few seconds or mins… it hasn’t been an issue for anyone on here so far.

I asked the question mainly because the hot systems have their own integrated controllers, so I’m not sure how easy/possible it would be to use an extra controller such as my WFP link. I doubt it’s been tried as so few people use the link.

Also the frost stat is part of the integrated controllers, so effectively they need to stay as are, this probably means the WFP link controller wouldn’t be particularly compatible as you’d have it as an extra controller, along side the integrated one(s)

You make a good point with the integrated controller with the frostat. I would contact Ian Sheppard and ask him how this could work.
The Frostat controller has extra wires to link the thermostat and trigger the boiler at low temperatures. It also has the wires to connect the pump to.

If you rather used your One Shot as the controller and connected the pump to that, I don't see an issue tbh. But it would be good to get Ian's opinion.

[Frankybadboy]

Great to see you posting again spruce

Hope the wife recovers quickly and get back to good health

[Smudger]

Sorry to hear about the wife spruce

We wish her a speedy recovery

Darran