[NWH]

I’ve changed membranes before but this thing is on a frame so it’s a bit of a nightmare trying to dismantle anything on it,the pre filters and resin is easy enough as they are easily accessible.
What do you thinks going on inside perhaps PTFT tape blocking something ?

[Shrek]

I totally get you , I changed mine for the 1st time last week after 3 years . Before that I had a small ro so it was easy , this took me 4hrs to work out what I was doing wrong and couldn’t work out why the end cap kept popping off when I turned the water on. Turned out I was putting the clamp just onto the housing and not the end cap too 😭.
It could be something like a lump of ptfe tape blocking it inside , only one way to find out though buddy

[NWH]

Yeah thanks I’ll have to have more of a look tomorrow although a bit of tape really you reckon, I can see they’ve used a fair bit from the outside but I can’t see why all of a sudden it would start being an issue it filled like a dream for that first  1000.
It’s trying to get out the RO as some is going to drain and some is going through resin,although this is happening the RO is still peeing out water from the top fittings like there’s a massive air lock but I did drain it out twice before refilling.

[Smudger]

You need to go through it step by step
Water going in? Pump working ? Waste water out ? Operate the red switch to flush are you getting more waste ?
Return switch back to production

Where it’s leaking can you give it a small turn to tighten no more than a spanner flat - but don’t force it assembled stuff that’s new quite often needs a tweak here and there

Personally I doubt ptfe had blocked anything

Darran

[NWH]

Thanks Darren as you say I can’t think it’s the tape causing the problem the first fill gave no issues at all,the waste on the spindle valve has been set for efficiency a small turn for waste then turn back in fully for production.
Could there be a big air lock in the pre filters although water is getting through to the RO.

[NWH]

Nothing wrong with the booster pump it’s working fine.

[Smudger]

I doubt you have an airlock if water is coming out the waste

[Smudger]

On mine I have a gate valve rather than a handle/tap

I always start it up on flush then. Lose the valve as you do this you can hear it pressurise - are you getting this?

[NWH]

Hi Darren it’s been pre set a 1/4 turn for waste 1/2 a turn back for production when I spoke to Pure Freedom I said when I switch to waste just when I was familiarising myself with it I told them I still had some pure going to tank he said this was normal,every other 40 inch setup I’ve used it I switch to waste it’s waste only all down the drain.
You can hardly hear it pressurising when you switch back to production from waste.

[Smudger]

Yes if  I go to waste there is still a trickle of pure

I have set up 2 taps with a pipe off each tap both of these are closed when in waste when I goto production you can hear it build up I open tap 1 which basically goes to a drain I leave running like this for a minute to get rid of tds creep I then close tap 1 and open tap 2 to fill tanks - I think without a tap your only going to hear a slight change

The big question is is the waste flow more when flushing or the same whether flush or in production?

[NWH]

Tbh it’s not a lot different.

[Smudger]

But your only getting a leak in production - not flush ?

Darran

[Simon Trapani]

I would get that RO housing apart & change that tap to a gate valve even if it is a bit difficult access.

If there’s a blockage of something off of a filter or a lump of ptfe, that tap may not let it through. Somethings changed during or since the first fill.

Obviously the more pressure the more it will leak.

As has been said, it’s a process of elimination.

Frustrating, but you will get to the bottom of it.

[NWH]

Thanks Simon I did try to pop the top end cap off in the picture it budged about 2-3 “ but wouldn’t come completely off so I left it,it was almost like there was a vacuum if you look at my picture the fittings on top of the end cap can stay in place when being removed I hope my other RO just has a couple of John guest fittings that popped off in seconds.
If I need to remove the  fittings that could be a bit of a nightmare.

[Shrek]

Suppliers should include instructions on how to change the membranes . It’s save a lot of down time and phone calls , Daqua includes instructions with the new membrane I bought - one thing to remember is to take pictures of every step you take so you know how to put it all back together

[NWH]

Yeah thanks I’ve always done that in the past when I’ve dismantled heaters etc,the easiest RO I’ve seen to change is the Ionic one it takes literally 2 minutes to change.
Do I need to unscrew that fitting on my picture to remove the end cap that’s the question I would think I do before it’ll lift off.

[Shrek]

I’m no expert tbh , maybe someone else is more experienced than me. But from the picture, it looks to me like that metal elbow joint needs to come off for starters , then possibly the blue screw cap, then unbolt the metal clamp, then use a flat head screw driver and push it around the cap slowly loosening it all the way round until it pops off.

[NWH]

I’ve got as far as taking the metal bracket off and lifting it off about 2” but it felt as though there was either an air lock or the fitting needed to come off also.

[NWH]

I think the blue plastic screw is just a blanking screw that’s the inlet I use on my other system either end for waste and production water.

[Shrek]

On my membrane housing , once the membrane is inside, the end cap just pushes in and gets clamped in place