No news from them yet
But today I took this info from Dazmond -:
Are you plugging the return valves back into your tank between jobs? I don’t do this between jobs only on the way to the first.
So started doing the info above today and the system has been working for a full day with no codes/shutting down. Iv just keep the hotbox continually running ( as spruce advice which they like to do ) either on the glass or back to tank between jobs. So the hotbox don’t have to keep cooling down then heating up which it obviously don’t like, wish I was advised of this on fitting. This also helps with warming the water in tank to feed to hotbox which helps with getting the water temperature up at brush head, I was expecting more ( as in temp ) from this one man heater so every little helps. Would advise any one to get the 2 manner.
Always used the cleaning warehouse for all my gear which been happy with so went with them for hotbox not really looking at price but I wasn’t expecting a Russian heater. Should of done a bit more homework on it.
Yes spruce the manufacturer of heater is Autoterm found ther web address last night for them amongst all the Russian on warrent card.
Now I’m after more advice from you guys
For cold nights, Does anyone put pump on low flow say 25, with batteries on charge. Then set timer on hotbox to start up early morning around 5am for a few hours before starting work to warm up water in tank to feed help with reaching higher temps at brush head through the day ?? How long do you think it would have to run to warm a 600 litre tank ??
The trouble is that most suppliers of any equipment don't always have hands-on experience with the stuff they are selling. I seem to think that Alex Gardiner was the only supplier who still maintained a small window cleaning round that he used to test new equipment. I'm not sure if he still does that now. If he does, then I just don't know where he finds the time.
I have my own version of a froststat. I have a 12v digital temperature controller with a heating mode. The temperature sensor is fitted to the bulkhead connector out to my pump. When the temperature inside the heater drops to 3 degrees C the digital controller switches the heater on. I have set my controller to switch off at 9 degrees. I don't circulate any hot water through my hose reel and back to the tank.
At 9 degrees C when the controller switches the heater off, the internal hot water circuit is at around 75 degrees C. I have found that the heater casing does get a little warm, which does keep the temperature in the van above freezing where we live on the North East coast. It might not be the same inland, where temperatures drop much lower.
The important thing is to keep your diesel heater from freezing up. You will have antifreeze in the internal water circuit so that won't be the problem, but you will have pure water in the other side of the heat exchanger which will freeze. Plate to plate heat exchangers aren't cheap.
https://www.butlertechnik.com/webasto-motor-home-plate-heat-exchanger-with-mixer-valve-4111209a-p1516I just use my system to bleed heat out of the system automatically. But tbh, the amount of hot water going to the tank doesn't make much difference to the water temperature in the tank. Personally, I would rather not heat the water in the tank specifically, as I see that as wasted energy. It costs enough to run a diesel heater just heating the water I am using to clean windows with.
But this is my opinion. There is/was a cleaner in Andover who used a 5kw diesel heater to only heat the water in his tank and then pumped that warm water to his brush head. He had a couple of videos on YouTube showing his setup, but I couldn't find them last time I searched.