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jo5hm4n

  • Posts: 948
Van System Issues
« on: March 08, 2020, 02:59:24 pm »
Got a Pure Freedom 650l Twin Delivery Only cold water system.  Had it since 2016.  Last year i changed the battery in may because it was knackered.  110A Battery lasted us 3 years i was happy with that.  Well the pumps have never been changed, and recently we were having issues with what i thought was the battery on the same system.  After speaking to Pure Freedom they advised me that it could be the pumps causing the problems or possibly some corrosion on the wiring after 4 years of use.  So i ordered new pumps and changed those on friday.  Charged the system overnight and today when i tested it was only reading 12.2 on the purefreedom flow controller for the battery voltage reading.  So im now thinking the battery is knackered again???  Less than a year aswell.  However saying that, one of the flow controllers keep shorting it out.  If you ever so slightly move the wires on the top of the battery it shorts out for one of the pumps.  Sometimes this happens randomly when the van is in use aswell maybe a few times a week.  So now im thinking surely its got to be either the battery is knackered or the wiring from that one flow controller is dodgy and whilst causing it to short maybe thats affecting the battery aswell?

I'm no expert on this so before i go order a new battery and rewire the whole thing, i thought id check with you guys on here first.  I don't want to have to drive to Pure Freedom to get this sorted, because it will cost a few hundred £ and 2 days downtime, even though they fitted the system rather tinker with this myself and try and fix it even though my diy is not the best!

Any advice is helpful.

Thank you.

Shrek

  • Posts: 3931
Re: Van System Issues
« Reply #1 on: March 08, 2020, 03:09:15 pm »
Iv had one of these for a few years now

https://purefreedom.co.uk/product/100psi-shurflo-pumpstrainer-flowmaster-controller-back-plate-copy/

It’s strange you say the flow controller has been shorting out as it’s been happening to me as well for the last few months!
It could be 1st thing in the morning and it sometimes struggles to turn on even though my battery is fully charged. My hose reel reads 13.5 amps and the flow controller says 8.8 amps (even though they’re connected to the same battery). After a lot of faffing about switching it on & off , it eventually comes on and reads maybe 13.2 amps.
It pees me of the most when it happens (rarely) in the middle of a job 😡 .

No idea what’s wrong with it though ...


simon w

  • Posts: 1647
Re: Van System Issues
« Reply #2 on: March 08, 2020, 03:11:27 pm »
Take it to a reputable qualified auto electricians and ask them to inspect the wiring for suitability. I had to have all the wiring upgraded between my flow controllers/batteries/heater from PF as they weren't adequate. I went through a faze where my flow controllers were flashing low voltage etc and after eliminating batteries, controller, pumps etc the wiring got a super upgrade from a local specialist auto electrical company that do commercial custom fits for business vehicles and I've never had any problem since. They couldn't believe how  under gunned the wiring was with plugs and connectors where they didn't necessarily need to be, they upgraded the whole wiring loom removing any plugs or connectors that didn't need to be there and I've had no problems ever since. I have a split charge relay and quick release battery terminals for convenience of removal/charging.

With the PF wiring it could be flashing LOW BATT I could wiggle the wiring and it would stop.

Cant obviously say for sure your problem is similar but get the wiring checked by a professional before spending out on batteries and pumps etc

P @ F

  • Posts: 6319
Re: Van System Issues
« Reply #3 on: March 08, 2020, 04:12:38 pm »
I had a rebranded spring controller that gave the same problems some time ago , Ian from spring came to the conclusion that the PCB had had its day , just a thought !
I'm so lazy I'm getting tired of it !

NWH

  • Posts: 16952
Re: Van System Issues
« Reply #4 on: March 08, 2020, 05:46:30 pm »
With a cold system and you have a decent enough charging system the batteries should last years,and that’s with just a split charge no bench.

TomCrowther

  • Posts: 1965
Re: Van System Issues
« Reply #5 on: March 08, 2020, 06:02:16 pm »
I have had the same batteries for seven years now. No problem at all? Charge them every other day an they are happy as Larry.

Shrek

  • Posts: 3931
Re: Van System Issues
« Reply #6 on: March 08, 2020, 06:10:23 pm »
It sounds like it’s the pure freedom wiring that’s crap , not the battery

Simon Trapani

  • Posts: 1561
Re: Van System Issues
« Reply #7 on: March 08, 2020, 06:34:52 pm »
I’d be looking for a bad connection or short first. Especially if you’re the type who gets the back of the van wet.

jo5hm4n

  • Posts: 948
Re: Van System Issues
« Reply #8 on: March 08, 2020, 07:19:41 pm »
I’d be looking for a bad connection or short first. Especially if you’re the type who gets the back of the van wet.

Any tips on knowing how to look for a bad connection or a short?  I have little experience with electrics only put my first diy system together within the last 12 month so still figuring it out as i go along.

Simon Trapani

  • Posts: 1561
Re: Van System Issues
« Reply #9 on: March 08, 2020, 08:34:20 pm »
Follow & inspect all the wiring for any signs of corrosion at any connectors such as the blue spade or bullet connectors. Give them a wiggle. Make sure they're tight etc. If you find any dodgy ones replace them and maybe smear them with Vaseline before reconnecting them. Check any fuse connections for corrosion also. Check the battery connections. Check them all.

Also check for any wires that may have been caught at some time under a bucket or scraped against something. It could have damaged the outer sheathing creating an intermittent short.

You said it's a diy system so you should have good knowledge of what does what seeing as you built it ??? But you said in the original post it's a Pure Freedom system?

You say if you wiggle a wire it shorts? Isolate that wire. You must mean it cuts out surely otherwise you'd be blowing a fuse? Have you even got fuses fitted? You should be able to wiggle any wire whilst the system is in use and it not affect anything.

Re-reading your original post I'd guess a corroded, damaged or loose connection. You need to find it.

Small but perfectley formed

  • Posts: 1744
Re: Van System Issues
« Reply #10 on: March 09, 2020, 07:03:37 am »
Also check the inline fuse.
Sounds like a wiring issue to me.
Spit and polish

Ian Sheppard

  • Posts: 1227
Re: Van System Issues
« Reply #11 on: March 09, 2020, 04:11:48 pm »
Iv had one of these for a few years now

https://purefreedom.co.uk/product/100psi-shurflo-pumpstrainer-flowmaster-controller-back-plate-copy/

It’s strange you say the flow controller has been shorting out as it’s been happening to me as well for the last few months!
It could be 1st thing in the morning and it sometimes struggles to turn on even though my battery is fully charged. My hose reel reads 13.5 amps and the flow controller says 8.8 amps (even though they’re connected to the same battery). After a lot of faffing about switching it on & off , it eventually comes on and reads maybe 13.2 amps.
It pees me of the most when it happens (rarely) in the middle of a job 😡 .

No idea what’s wrong with it though ...

What jumps out at me here is that your getting a short if the cables move or are touched. As the system is 4 years old I am guessing the wiring is of a similar age as will be the connectors. There is a very good chance the connectors and possible fuse/fuse holder are corroded. There is also a good chance there is damaged cable somewhere. Both of these will cause volt drop along the length of the cable.

Damaged or corroded connectors are also more prone to overheating. As these heat up more current is drawn from the battery and ends up being wasted to heating.

The Cables supplied with the controllers are either 1mm or 2mm Tri rated cable rated to 18amps.

I would suggest before looking at the battery replacing the wiring is the way to go.

Copper is a good conductor of electrical current however it is not 100% efficient copper will also act as a resistor to current this means a small amount of energy is lost as it passes along the cable, Commonly referred to as volt drop. For this reason all cables should be as short as possible. A longer cable run than necessary can increase the effect of volt drop along the cable length.

Connectors and terminal blocks can also be a source of volt drop for this reason regularly inspecting your connectors replacing any that are worn or damaged is a good idea. Also check connections are secure with good contact to the copper core.

Check for any damaged cable where insulation has been chaffed exposing the copper core not only is there a risk of a short knocking out the fuse the exposed core can be a source of volt drop and become very hot in some circumstance,s this heat can be sufficient to melt insulation and fuse increasing the risk of fire.

An Issue with old connectors is corrosion something that is difficult to avoid in a wet environment such as WFP so keeping connections as dry as possible by placing cable into conduit is a good idea. Corrosion will increase the resistance of the connector and in turn volt drop across the connector.

A badly worn or corroded connector can become an energy wasting resistor. If your connectors are excessively hot they either need replacing or tightening, as your are wasting precious battery power.

A good connector should only feel warm to the touch in normal use.
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