[Alex Wingrove]

Hi Rich

What is this connection called, the one that comes out of the heater?

Would it be possible to connect a 90deg elbow and then run through the heat exchanger?

Are you thinking of selling your design or can I plug you for more information?

Thanks

Alex

[P @ F]

Alex , you can ask anything you want ,  anybody can buy the bits , putting it together is the hard bit due to all the stainless welding needed !

The bit in the heater is called a V Band



You lost me with the elbow bit mate

[P @ F]

Alex , why do you want a 90 degree elbow anyway ?
You can just turn the heater the other way !

[DeLuce]

Hi Rich, have you got a link for those thermometers please? I was thinking of buying some.
Thanks..

[P @ F]

?

[P @ F]

Can’t link it , just search digital thermometer on eBay , half way down first page

[Alex Wingrove]

Hi Rich

Thanks for sharing

Ok. 90Deg.

I currently have my heater, under the passenger seat, and then a hole through the metal work up through the bulk head into the van, to keep it from freezing.

However, with your invention, I can use it to heat the water in the tank over night, and then it will act as a radiator, killing two birds with one stone.

So I need to 90deg so that I can have the heat exchanger behind the seats that way it takes up no room, and means I dont have to rearrange anything.

So I would need a to come out of the burner, for 200mm then elbow then use the VBand to connect to the heat exchanger.

So I have a few questions. Do you feed the water in the top barb and then out the second the lower one?
Is the hole at the bottom of the chamber the exhaust?
How do you vent it? How have managed to seal it?
How to do you seal the bottom where the copper pipe goes in and the exhaust gasses come out?
Could you modify it use Hep20 fittings?
What is the SS you are using?
What should I look for when finding someone to weld it?

Sorry to bombard you, I want to have a full grasp of things before I start

Thanks

Alex

[P @ F]

The trouble is that the 90 would be big money to make , it would need to be 52 mm at the heater end , welded straight onto the burner itself then the other end would need to be stretched out to 57mm to have the V band fitted , then the heat exchanger would be added , all well and good but the 90 bend would be wide open and be 600*c , most of the heat would not get to benefit the exchanger and you would have glowing red steel waiting to set the van on fire !
I would have a rethink mate !!

[DeLuce]

Ok ! Thanks for that.
Good luck with your ongoing heater build. 

[P @ F]

Ok ! Thanks for that.
Good luck with your ongoing heater build.

Cheers , I would say it’s pretty much ready to get some out , it’s just a case of getting the cost sorted now !

[nathankaye]

Ok ! Thanks for that.
Good luck with your ongoing heater build.

Cheers , I would say it’s pretty much ready to get some out , it’s just a case of getting the cost sorted now !

Sort the price out when your feeling generous lol 

[Alex Wingrove]

I will just wait for you to sell the parts then.

Is there a way you could make the outlets 15mm bsp thread? To attack some Hep fittings?

[a900]

Well it’s been a while since I’ve been on clean it up. And thought I would check out the post that was for me (see first post) only to find it’s died a death.

Anyone else with DIY heater set ups going well? I upgraded mine to 2 man. Not sure if I posted that. Tried waste oil blends in a webasto and for anyone that’s interested they don’t like it

Started messing with ardiunos. And tempted to learn some code that can allow my pump to run at a slower flow and back to the tank when the water isn’t flowing out the pole. Therefore keeping the heater running on only idle and boosting efficiency.

If anyone sees this that’s very DIY. Has anyone done an ardiuno RO automation. It could turn on filters. Give a low temp warning. TDS warnings. Filter change reminders. RO flushing. Wonder what else could be useful. Found some code for the basic RO shut off and pump control but not the added features.

[Ched]

Well it’s been a while since I’ve been on clean it up. And thought I would check out the post that was for me (see first post) only to find it’s died a death.

Anyone else with DIY heater set ups going well? I upgraded mine to 2 man. Not sure if I posted that. Tried waste oil blends in a webasto and for anyone that’s interested they don’t like it

Started messing with ardiunos. And tempted to learn some code that can allow my pump to run at a slower flow and back to the tank when the water isn’t flowing out the pole. Therefore keeping the heater running on only idle and boosting efficiency.

If anyone sees this that’s very DIY. Has anyone done an ardiuno RO automation. It could turn on filters. Give a low temp warning. TDS warnings. Filter change reminders. RO flushing. Wonder what else could be useful. Found some code for the basic RO shut off and pump control but not the added features.

I recently started playing with ESP8266 as they are very cheap - can be used in Arduino development environment and have wifi built in.  I am playing with basic RO automation at moment.  I would be interested to see the basic code you found, do you have a link?  While the wifi works as it runs a web server it does need hard coding with network name and password. It's quite easy to play with as using a web server means commands are fairly easy to do using html forms. Not sure if I'm going to go down the bluetooth route (there are bluetooth version of the ESP8266 that has wifi and bluetooth for about £4!!!) Then it will be app controlled..
Anyway I would be interested in your findings so far.

[a900]

I’m very very new to the coding world. So I’m trying to understand the code I’ve found. Some of it make sense some not so much.

https://github.com/linuxkidd/arduino-ro-control

Don’t have any code for a heater idle circuit. I’m hoping that learning through other peoples work or collaborations that I can get it together.

[Ched]

I’m very very new to the coding world. So I’m trying to understand the code I’ve found. Some of it make sense some not so much.

https://github.com/linuxkidd/arduino-ro-control

Don’t have any code for a heater idle circuit. I’m hoping that learning through other peoples work or collaborations that I can get it together.

Just had a very quick look through the example you linked to. It doesn't really do much other than start a pump when the tank level drops and gives you a display.
I have a fair bit of coding experience but not in C or C++ (the language that arduino type micro controllers use) . It's not that different but I am just starting to play with it.
I was intending to have 2 or 3 solenoid valves - water in, waste flush and maybe divert RO out to drain while flushing to reduce high tds getting into resin. Plus a tank level float switch. So press start button if tank level low -  inlet and flush opens  for say 2 mins. Then shut flush and turn on pump. That was my basic system.
Arduino type code is a bit weird to me as normally code is sequential so you run through it once and that's it. Arduino code is a loop so it keeps going round and round, so you have to have switch variables to control loops a bit more. As I said I am only just starting to have a go. I bought a couple of ESP 8266 from Amazon at about £8 for the pair - they are even usb powered so updating code nice and easy. Then I bought a relay board again about £8 and a 'starter kit' which contained a bread board, switches, resistors, leds etc. This enables you to push components and wires into the breadboard without soldering, so it's quick and easy for prototyping.
By all means send me a PM.

[Spruce]

Well it’s been a while since I’ve been on clean it up. And thought I would check out the post that was for me (see first post) only to find it’s died a death.

Anyone else with DIY heater set ups going well? I upgraded mine to 2 man. Not sure if I posted that. Tried waste oil blends in a webasto and for anyone that’s interested they don’t like it

Started messing with ardiunos. And tempted to learn some code that can allow my pump to run at a slower flow and back to the tank when the water isn’t flowing out the pole. Therefore keeping the heater running on only idle and boosting efficiency.

If anyone sees this that’s very DIY. Has anyone done an ardiuno RO automation. It could turn on filters. Give a low temp warning. TDS warnings. Filter change reminders. RO flushing. Wonder what else could be useful. Found some code for the basic RO shut off and pump control but not the added features.

Just add a 3rd heat exchanger before your header tank.  A small 22kw works fine. Add an additional Shurflo pump, a 40amp (continuous rating of 8 amps) PWM controller and 12v digital temp controller that has a cooling function.

You know your Thermo 90 goes into reduced heat mode when it reaches 72ºC.  The combustion air motor speed and fuel pump delivery are reduced. The coolant temperature will continue to rise slower by another 10 degrees C, "the heater will then automatically stop combustion, fuel delivery will cease and the flame within the combustion chamber will be extinguished.  The heater will then commence a 180 purge cycle.

The heater is now in stand-by mode.  The green operation light will still be illuminated and the water pump will continue to circulate the hot water.  The heater will automatically restart if the water temperature falls by 15 C, going through the same start cycle as before." (taken from the manual.)

So you set your digital temperature controller to kick on your Shurflo pump at 80 degrees. This pump draws cold water from the tank and pumps it through the 3rd heat exchanger and dumps it back into the tank.  Set the controller to switch off the pump at 74 degrees C. It will then keep the heater from switching into stand by mode. You can regulate the speed of the pump with the PWM controller to reduce that heat more gradually.
You will have to add a small section of copper 22mm pipe into the hose to the third heat exchanger for the temperature controllers temp probe.

[a900]

Well it’s been a while since I’ve been on clean it up. And thought I would check out the post that was for me (see first post) only to find it’s died a death.

Anyone else with DIY heater set ups going well? I upgraded mine to 2 man. Not sure if I posted that. Tried waste oil blends in a webasto and for anyone that’s interested they don’t like it

Started messing with ardiunos. And tempted to learn some code that can allow my pump to run at a slower flow and back to the tank when the water isn’t flowing out the pole. Therefore keeping the heater running on only idle and boosting efficiency.

If anyone sees this that’s very DIY. Has anyone done an ardiuno RO automation. It could turn on filters. Give a low temp warning. TDS warnings. Filter change reminders. RO flushing. Wonder what else could be useful. Found some code for the basic RO shut off and pump control but not the added features.

Just add a 3rd heat exchanger before your header tank.  A small 22kw works fine. Add an additional Shurflo pump, a 40amp (continuous rating of 8 amps) PWM controller and 12v digital temp controller that has a cooling function.

You know your Thermo 90 goes into reduced heat mode when it reaches 72ºC.  The combustion air motor speed and fuel pump delivery are reduced. The coolant temperature will continue to rise slower by another 10 degrees C, "the heater will then automatically stop combustion, fuel delivery will cease and the flame within the combustion chamber will be extinguished.  The heater will then commence a 180 purge cycle.

The heater is now in stand-by mode.  The green operation light will still be illuminated and the water pump will continue to circulate the hot water.  The heater will automatically restart if the water temperature falls by 15 C, going through the same start cycle as before." (taken from the manual.)

So you set your digital temperature controller to kick on your Shurflo pump at 80 degrees. This pump draws cold water from the tank and pumps it through the 3rd heat exchanger and dumps it back into the tank.  Set the controller to switch off the pump at 74 degrees C. It will then keep the heater from switching into stand by mode. You can regulate the speed of the pump with the PWM controller to reduce that heat more gradually.
You will have to add a small section of copper 22mm pipe into the hose to the third heat exchanger for the temperature controllers temp probe.

Defo a more simple option.

With my set up I’ve added an egr heat exchanger into the exhaust. It’s been preheating the water for about a year now. So I need constant water flow through this exchanger. If water shuts off it boils in a few mins. Preheats the water 10-15c if I remember right and exhaust cool enough to drip condensate.

[Spruce]

Well it’s been a while since I’ve been on clean it up. And thought I would check out the post that was for me (see first post) only to find it’s died a death.

Anyone else with DIY heater set ups going well? I upgraded mine to 2 man. Not sure if I posted that. Tried waste oil blends in a webasto and for anyone that’s interested they don’t like it

Started messing with ardiunos. And tempted to learn some code that can allow my pump to run at a slower flow and back to the tank when the water isn’t flowing out the pole. Therefore keeping the heater running on only idle and boosting efficiency.

If anyone sees this that’s very DIY. Has anyone done an ardiuno RO automation. It could turn on filters. Give a low temp warning. TDS warnings. Filter change reminders. RO flushing. Wonder what else could be useful. Found some code for the basic RO shut off and pump control but not the added features.

Just add a 3rd heat exchanger before your header tank.  A small 22kw works fine. Add an additional Shurflo pump, a 40amp (continuous rating of 8 amps) PWM controller and 12v digital temp controller that has a cooling function.

You know your Thermo 90 goes into reduced heat mode when it reaches 72ºC.  The combustion air motor speed and fuel pump delivery are reduced. The coolant temperature will continue to rise slower by another 10 degrees C, "the heater will then automatically stop combustion, fuel delivery will cease and the flame within the combustion chamber will be extinguished.  The heater will then commence a 180 purge cycle.

The heater is now in stand-by mode.  The green operation light will still be illuminated and the water pump will continue to circulate the hot water.  The heater will automatically restart if the water temperature falls by 15 C, going through the same start cycle as before." (taken from the manual.)

So you set your digital temperature controller to kick on your Shurflo pump at 80 degrees. This pump draws cold water from the tank and pumps it through the 3rd heat exchanger and dumps it back into the tank.  Set the controller to switch off the pump at 74 degrees C. It will then keep the heater from switching into stand by mode. You can regulate the speed of the pump with the PWM controller to reduce that heat more gradually.
You will have to add a small section of copper 22mm pipe into the hose to the third heat exchanger for the temperature controllers temp probe.

Defo a more simple option.

With my set up I’ve added an egr heat exchanger into the exhaust. It’s been preheating the water for about a year now. So I need constant water flow through this exchanger. If water shuts off it boils in a few mins. Preheats the water 10-15c if I remember right and exhaust cool enough to drip condensate.

I would find a 12v hot water circulation pump and wire it in via a relay. When you start the heater you start the pump as well.
I'm thinking of a pump somewhere along the lines of what Webasto use on engine heaters that use a circulatory pump mounted in the heater lines away from the furnace.

I seem to recall there are plenty of cheaper alternatives to the Webasto brand name when I looked years ago.

12v solar panel pumps might be worth a look at.

[NWH]

There is cheaper ones they are Chinese and they are not by a long way as reliable the Webasto ones I think all in are around 280.