[P @ F]

Well i have tried them all and am at a loss as to why !

First i had standard microbore , did the job fine , got hot to the brush head .

Next i tried Grippa thermobore , did the job fine  , got hot to the brush head , what i did find is that the hose took a lot expansion before the flow controller would shut the pumping down (all calibration settings tried ).

This year i am on Gardiner green as main hose , its doing a fantastic job , almost instant shut down , very very little expansion on the hose , but what is puzzling me is why the water is getting to the brush head that much hotter than normal , ok i get that the ambient temps are not as low just yet , but i am now at the lowest heat setting and am wondering if maybe its too hot !
The only way i can explain it at the moment is maybe the micro and thermo rubber absorb a lot of the heat that is meant to go to the brush  head and lose it through the larger surface area when it unwound and laid out on the floor .

Anybody had anything similar in the way of findings , im not overly worried but at times in the colder weather i have found that the rubber hoses seem to only supply warm water at the brush head . 

[nathankaye]

Ive been using hot since the immersion as you know.
I use the standard microbore main hose from purefreedom, dont know why as it has the same split down the length that i had on my previous hose from them. But at the moment it hasnt started to split. Nothing to do with using hot as i released it was like this from new, but couldnt be bothered with wasting my time sending back n complaining as it got me no where last time.
So a standard microbore main hose and my pole hose is the all weather from gardiner that came with my slx25. Ive been using hot for some time and as u know 6 jets. I have the digi controller from purefreedom and i run it at a flow between 75 n 80. Not due to the 6 jets as i can run it at a slower rate, but it ensures i get the full heat at the brush end, especially if 50m out or more.
If im not using the water, ie supping a coffee, the heat is quickly lost through the hose from the water.
So for me, its an higher flow to maintain heat at the brush end

[M & C Window Cleaning]

How are you heating your water P@F? 

What I’m thinking is that the green Gardiner PU hose has a smaller bore (ID 5.5mm) so your flow will be slightly reduced say than if you were using 6mm ID hose. If you slow your water down as it goes through your heater it will come out hotter unless you adjust you heater to compensate.  However, it sounds as if you are trying to compensate but your heater doesn’t have a low enough setting.  How hot is your water at the brush? Have you taken a reading?

[P @ F]

How are you heating your water P@F? 

What I’m thinking is that the green Gardiner PU hose has a smaller bore (ID 5.5mm) so your flow will be slightly reduced say than if you were using 6mm ID hose. If you slow your water down as it goes through your heater it will come out hotter unless you adjust you heater to compensate.  However, it sounds as if you are trying to compensate but your heater doesn’t have a low enough setting.  How hot is your water at the brush? Have you taken a reading?

Im using an L5 Ecotemp , as yet have not taken a reading at brush head , the difference is 0.5 mm between the hoses and the flow if anything is better due to the water being (thinner) if you like , i have never been able to up the flow in the past as now and again it would not ignite after shut down .
I will try to open up the regulator a bit today , maybe that will bring the temp down a bit , but as i say , im sure its down to the fact that outside temps are not quite winter yet are they , i dont usualy put the heater in until at least December , in fact it did not even go in last year as i recall .
I cant see that the PU has better insulation qualities than rubber to be honest , i do have a feeling that once the proper cold is here , i will be back on moaning that my water is too cold at the brush head 
I just like supple hose and the ability to wipe out snail trails quick .

[NWH]

I put 50-60 degree heat through my hose every day and I’ve had the same reel of hose on for over 2  years,it’s how you pull it out and the not yanking it round corners that makes it last. If you know your work your hose will last longer due to it being looked after,I’ve tried em all thermo hose etc they are no better than standard micro bore-minibore.

[M & C Window Cleaning]

I use an L5 to heat my water as I tranfer it to my barrels on winter mornings and my pump running flat out will fill a barrel in 9mins at a temp of about 35°. If I reduce it to filling a barrel every 10mins the temp will be 45°.  I recon if you measure your flow at the brush, no matter what it looks like it'll be less with the green hose.
An ID reduction of 0.5mm may not sound like much of a reduction, but it is in terms of volume of water the hose will allow to pass through at a given pressure.

[Spruce]

Its also got something to do with the temperature of the water in your tank at the moment.

Most boilers specs show what temperature the boiler will raise the water at what flow. So as has been said, slow the water down through the boiler and the boiler will have more of a chance to raise the water temperature higher.

So if your boiler will raise the temperature of the water by 25 degrees at 2lpm then the temperature of the water to begin with is important. So if the water is at 6 degrees then the output will be at 31 degrees. If the water is 15 degrees then the water from the boiler will be at 40 degrees.   

Our water isn't cold yet.

[P @ F]

I should be alright then , tested today , did the front of a large house so the water could get up to temp , then went to back and did tops , i then tested the water , it was at 44 degrees at the brush , bearing in mind it was a nice day the water temp should have been quite high to start , by the time the cold times arrive i reckon i will be looking at maybe 30/35 at the brush  , which im sure is what i was getting through the winters past .
Im going to test on Monday , but will take tank temp and then brush head temp once its been running a bit , I will make a note and then do the same when it is cold just to see if the connection Spruce mentions is a rule of thumb so to speak .

[Spruce]

I should be alright then , tested today , did the front of a large house so the water could get up to temp , then went to back and did tops , i then tested the water , it was at 44 degrees at the brush , bearing in mind it was a nice day the water temp should have been quite high to start , by the time the cold times arrive i reckon i will be looking at maybe 30/35 at the brush  , which im sure is what i was getting through the winters past .
Im going to test on Monday , but will take tank temp and then brush head temp once its been running a bit , I will make a note and then do the same when it is cold just to see if the connection Spruce mentions is a rule of thumb so to speak .

That will be interesting.

[P @ F]

Did the little test today , had about 50m of hose out , once it had run for a while and had gotten  to a steady pace workwise i got these results  ....   Outside temp  --- 15 c
                                           Tank  temp   --- 17 c       
                                          Brush temp  --- 44 c
                                            Flow on        --- 85
So the heater raised the temp by about 27 c , I will do a few more tests to see if there is a pattern here .

[P @ F]

Today was ........Outside temp --- 16 c
                                  Tank temp      --- 17 c
                                 Brush temp    --- 38 c
                                    Flow on          --- 99

So only a rise of  21 c today , but the flow was higher .

[P @ F]

Today was ....

Outside temp ---15 c
   Tank temp     ---15 c
 Brush temp    --- 44 c
     Flow on         --- 85

So up 29 c today , should be able to see if there is a pattern soon , once the temps drop to say 10 c by rights i should be getting around 38 c at the brush head .