Thanks for that like I say I'm having a lot of problems due to the diesel heater,the other day i put a 115amp battery on charge at 3 o'clock in the afternoon and turned it off in the following morning on a CTek charger. I probably only get 2-3 cycles of startup on the heater before due to the battery dropping by to between 11-11.5v on the battery it switches it off I have to keep turning the heater on and off manually on the controller in order for it to start up again.
My first guess is this is battery related.
The problem with leisure batteries is that they require a tickle discharge and that's why they are so different to starter batteries.
Some of the new Numax leisure batteries are heading toward dual applications. They can be used as starter as well as leisure batteries as they have a CCA rating. So imho I would certainly try one of these batteries.
I have not been able to find any initial draw current specs on the Webasto diesel water heaters. My own is still waiting patiently on the garage work bench to fit an array of modifications I have dreamt up. More later.
I do have a Eberspacher Airtronic diesel air heater installed in the van. On start up it draws around 18 amps in pulses heating the glowpin up needed to fire the heater up. This lasts for approx 3 minutes which by then the heater is well started. The heater then draws around 2.5 amps until the cabin reaches close to the temperature set on the controller. It then kicks into reduced heating mode where it draws 1.5 amps.
Now as Webasto owns Eberspacher we can assume that similar technology goes into both products. Webasto say that the 90ST draws a maximum current of 90 watts (7.5amps) on full mode and 37 watts (3amps) on tickover mode.
I can't believe that the heater would draw any more than 20 amps on startup but it could be fractionally higher because of the circulation pump.
So on start up using a single battery you will have a draw of 20 amps and if you are running 2 wfp pumps the current draw will be around 30 amps. That's heading out of standard leisure battery abilities.
A good indication is going back to the caravan world. Will the leisure battery you are using support a caravan mover? For example, Platium leisure battery manufacturers advise against using their 75 amp battery with one. Its OK for leisure camping but not suitable for wild camping.
http://www.alpha-batteries.co.uk/85-ah-platinum-leisure-battery-685l/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3MvH98i91gIVCrftCh32_gepEAQYBSABEgLoQ_D_BwEI planned to add a third heat exchanger into my heater linked with a temperature controller. The idea was that when I'm busy talking the diesel heater will still be building up internal temperature. When the heater reaches reduced heat mode I want to program the controller to switch a pump on and bleed the excess heat back to the tank. This will be programmed to cut off when that's done and hopefully by that time I'm working again.
(There are 3 different heating mode settings on 90ST diesel heaters. The common one is when the water temperature reaches 72ºC, the heater will switch to a lower output. The combustion air motor speed and fuel pump delivery are reduced.
If the coolant temperature continues to rise by a further 10ºC, the heater will then automatically stop combustion, fuel delivery will cease and the flame within the combustion chamber will be extinguished. The heater will then commence a 180 second purge cycle.
The heater is now in stand-by mode. The green operation light will still be illuminated and the water pump will continue to circulate the hot water. The heater will automatically restart if the water temperature falls by 15 C, going through the same start cycle as before.
So I would program my temperature controller to switch the third pump on at around 76 degrees and switch the pump off at around 67 degrees C - within the reduced combustion/heat mode window and just keeping the heater on tickover.)
This will certainly reduce the number of stop and the restarts.
Ionics get around this by fitting a pressure relief valve on the delivery line which activates at 65psi. The problem with this is that the wfp pump runs continously. When you are cleaning windows you will have enough pressure below 65psi to delivery water to your brush head. When you switch off your water to the pole, the pressure will build up above 65psi and the pressure relief valve beeds that hot water back to the tank. So your controller needs to be set higher than 65 psi.
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