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8weekly

Re: Changing a 4040 membrane
« Reply #20 on: January 12, 2017, 06:52:04 pm »
I'm not experienced at changing the 4040 membrane as mine's still on it's original.
But have you given the membrane enough of a shove to get it back into it's original position? As it sounds as if it's not quite pushed home enough.
No. I had to take both end caps off. The bit in the video where he clips the white ring in is very misleading. In reality I could not get enough even pressure on the cap to force it in because of the thickness of the O ring underneath. In the end the O ring was cut by the cap and I'm awaiting another.


andyM

  • Posts: 6100
Re: Changing a 4040 membrane
« Reply #21 on: January 12, 2017, 07:04:37 pm »
Next time try tapping the end cap in the centre with a rubber mallet.
One of the Plebs

Frankybadboy

  • Posts: 9022
Re: Changing a 4040 membrane
« Reply #22 on: January 12, 2017, 07:31:58 pm »
Next time try tapping the end cap in the centre with a rubber mallet.
yep what i do

8weekly

Re: Changing a 4040 membrane
« Reply #23 on: January 12, 2017, 08:04:22 pm »
Next time try tapping the end cap in the centre with a rubber mallet.
yep what i do
Tapping wouldn't do it. According to GAPS the o ring is now thicker. I was banging hell out of it, but what it really needed was heavy and level pressure. June is lending me a tool to get more even leverage. I'm pretty sure it's not me that's the problem but who knows? If all else fails Cliff Perkins from here is going to let me have some water but I'm hoping to get it sorted before.

Frankybadboy

  • Posts: 9022
Re: Changing a 4040 membrane
« Reply #24 on: January 12, 2017, 08:19:32 pm »
replaced three of my own membrane and had to do it with each one,also build a system for a mate and done the same with his,

actually put a block of wood on the end then hit it,or place the open end cap on and hit that,but still use the wood

if that doesnt work then get back in the gym you lazy git  ;D ;D ;D ;D

CleanClear

  • Posts: 14717
Re: Changing a 4040 membrane
« Reply #25 on: January 12, 2017, 10:55:41 pm »
Next time try tapping the end cap in the centre with a rubber mallet.
yep what i do
Tapping wouldn't do it. According to GAPS the o ring is now thicker. I was banging hell out of it, but what it really needed was heavy and level pressure. June is lending me a tool to get more even leverage. I'm pretty sure it's not me that's the problem but who knows? If all else fails Cliff Perkins from here is going to let me have some water but I'm hoping to get it sorted before.

They've always been difficult for me to refit too. I generally put a pice of 3x2 or similar over it an whack the hell out of it, with someone else running round the clip with a screwdriver.
 I'd pay attention to what Andy said above, its more than likely that Chlorine has killed your membrane. I don't use a 5 micron filter and then a carbon filer anymore for that reason, carbon filters are 5 micron anyway i just use 2 carbon filters.
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Carl2009

  • Posts: 806
Re: Changing a 4040 membrane
« Reply #26 on: January 13, 2017, 11:31:42 am »
I've yet to replace my 4" x 40" membrane (Pure Feedom Champ housing) but the  time is approaching I guess. I didn't know you had to balance the waste to pure ratio - how is this done?

I just thought you swapped membranes and you were away?

Cheers

Carl

CleanClear

  • Posts: 14717
Re: Changing a 4040 membrane
« Reply #27 on: January 13, 2017, 04:04:13 pm »
I've yet to replace my 4" x 40" membrane (Pure Feedom Champ housing) but the  time is approaching I guess. I didn't know you had to balance the waste to pure ratio - how is this done?

I just thought you swapped membranes and you were away?

Cheers

Carl

Where the waste comes out you should have a valve or tap. Reducing the waste will create more product water and vis versa.
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Carl2009

  • Posts: 806
Re: Changing a 4040 membrane
« Reply #28 on: January 13, 2017, 04:34:11 pm »
I've yet to replace my 4" x 40" membrane (Pure Feedom Champ housing) but the  time is approaching I guess. I didn't know you had to balance the waste to pure ratio - how is this done?

I just thought you swapped membranes and you were away?

Cheers

Carl

Where the waste comes out you should have a valve or tap. Reducing the waste will create more product water and vis versa.

Aha, got it. Yep, I have a gate valve. PF didn't say anything about how much it should be open, so it's been closed the entire time i've had it.

Just for people's info, I make about 400l a day - sometimes less; rarely more. I've got a TDS of around 100 or so from the tap; I have a booster pump on the supply to the van (gawd knows what it boosts the 2 or so bar pressure up to) and I have tds of around 5 ppm post RO, pre DI. The RO membrane has been in, unchanged, since April 2009. I flush for at least 20 mins once a week, sometimes more cos I use the waste to wash the van with.  I change resin around every 8 or 9 months now (I guess - I don't check). I changed it today cos when I checked TDS was 2ppm and there's only one way it was going to go, plus I had the time today, cold though it was. I change pre-filters every 3 months (saying that I have a Fibredyne carbon filter now, so i'll change that every 6 months).

I reckon soft water (i'm glad I have the RO nonetheless) regular flushing and regular pre-filter changes have helped extend the life of the RO, but i'm pretty sure i'll be changing it this spring anyway.

Cheers

Carl

8weekly

Re: Changing a 4040 membrane
« Reply #29 on: January 13, 2017, 05:37:41 pm »
Finally sorted it. Cliff Perkins did it for me. I was trying to knock it in with one hit, but Cliff got it in on one side, then smashed it in on the other side. Like a barrel I guess. I'm mighty relieved.