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Steve Weatherley

  • Posts: 699
Tips for applying Protectakote
« on: August 31, 2016, 06:33:00 pm »
I'm going to apply Protectakote to my van (ply lined) this weekend. Should I rub down the ply with glass paper before applying? Any extra tips would be gratefully received.

Slash

  • Posts: 1875
Re: Tips for applying Protectakote
« Reply #1 on: August 31, 2016, 06:38:21 pm »
I'd take the ply out and do the floor properly and up the sides about 4 inches,put the ply on the sides back and paint up the sides a few inches,well that's what I did and left the floor ply out.

Don Kee

  • Posts: 4879
Re: Tips for applying Protectakote
« Reply #2 on: August 31, 2016, 06:42:05 pm »
As above


Key the floor before you paint though
Put some of this down instead of the floor ply

Why don't you have a quick google before making stupid comments?

Clever Forum Name

  • Posts: 5942
Re: Tips for applying Protectakote
« Reply #3 on: August 31, 2016, 06:44:41 pm »
I painted my van floor. Its not really a guide on how do it. More of a tips and tricks section   

OK so first clear the van out, I really mean clear it out. If you are painting up to the sides of plastic or wood. I would strip the van out like I did. The paint gets all over the place. No matter how careful you are it will go everywhere lol. Paint splatter is also present, not as bad as house rollers as the paint is quite sticky. But you will get some.

OK so the van is cleared out. Work out what to wear. You will ruin the clothes, so make sure you are not wearing anything you want to keep. You will probably get drips on shoes as well. So remember to wear old ones.

Make sure you are wearing gloves, don't bother with those latex ones, the paint will eat through them. Spend a few quid and get some nice heavy duty marigolds. Maybe even two pairs.

Next is work out where you are going to paint the van. Think about space, ventilation and the weather. If the paint get wet, it will cure funny and react. Make sure you have enough space to work around the van and it can be stood still for a few days.

Okay so you want to start painting....wrong!!! Get a heavy duty mask. This paint stinks its very fun for around 30 mins. Ow look I am high, this is great giggle giggle. Then you start to get sick and the headaches start. So get a good mask!!!!

The paint work needs to be cleaned,dry and keyed.

I basically cleaned the van out, with a brush and then got to work. The whole floor was cleaned using CIF. This is what you are told to use, and it does work. Give the van floor two good cleans. Next get some heavy duty scourer pads. Ideally ones for removing burnt on rubbish from griddles. Cost about £3 for 10 or so. Scotchbrite is good, but its easier with bigger pads.

Work on the floor for around an hour or two. Get rid of the shine, any loose rust and grease. Once the floor is done, brush the floor out or use air like I did. Next you want to clean the floor with Xylene (Xylol) and only this. Anything else could react with the protecta kote.

Once the floor is cleaned let it air dry. Mask up any areas and allow for paint splatter.

The paint needs to be mixed for a good 5 minutes. If you cheat and say 2 minutes is enough, you will find out the hard way. The paint will clump, and look a mess. Buy a drill mixer. Cost about £4 and put it into a drill. Hey presto easy work.

My advice would be to buy the acceleration liquid. It knocks off around 60% drying time! BUT if you plan to do this when its cold, it makes a big difference to time. 5 hours without it, or less than 2 with it! The price is about £2.50 per litre of paint. So not expensive!

Once the paint is mixed, pour some into a roller tray. Now its just a case of painting. Start from a corner and work towards the back of the van, making sure you can reach any bad bits with a brush as well. Do corners etc as you go along. As you do not want to walk on wet paint. I have a side loading door. So no issue for me. Do a light coat in ONE direction. Make sure its only in one direction. When you run out, remix the paint up in the tin and then pour on the roller tray.

Now roller trays can be any size, but for the love of god use a 4 inch stippled roller. Do not use a bigger one, its awkward and clumps!

Now do all the corners with a brush. DAB the brush downwards so all the hairs splay out. Get a real cheap nasty brush for this.

Once finished throw the roller sleeve out and fit a new one, they are about £1 each. Its not worth the hassle cleaning!

DO NOT THROW THE BRUSH AWAY. Let the brush dry out, when you do the second coat, the brush should be rock hard and look knackered. This is great as it will give a stippled effect and not a brushed effect!

You can use Xylene (Xylol) to thin the paint but I wouldn't. It also cleans off any spills.

Once sort of tacky dry apply the second coat in 90 degree rotation to the previous coat. This coat should cover any imperfections. The second coat will take longer to dry.

I would only do two coats in a day.

Before you start the third coat, you could apply some anti slip powder. 100 grams at £2.50 did my floor and its really is grippy!!!!

When you finished coats, check for spills, splatter etc. Clean with the Xylene (Xylol) don't leave it longer than needed. It will only be harder to clean off paint work etc.

Thats about it really, like I say not a guide. More of hey guys I painted my floor. I checked everywhere for some help, and not a lot on the internet.

Now some do's and don't that I found handy.

Do's

Buy the acceleration liquid and the Xylene (Xylol) cleaner.

BUY 1 LITRE POTS! It may work out dearer, but once these tins are opened they only last 24hrs before they cure. Also its a lot easier if you want to do over a few days etc

I bought 4 tins and used two, so if I did buy the 4 litre pot. I would have wasted a good £33!

Make sure you have plenty of cloths about to mop up etc.

Stir, stir and stir. Stir the paint at least every 10 minutes.

Buy a good breathing mask.

Mask up well.

DONT'S

Get in hair

On clothes

On hands

Breath in too much

Smoke a *** in the back

Paint over screw heads.

Slash

  • Posts: 1875
Re: Tips for applying Protectakote
« Reply #4 on: August 31, 2016, 06:59:33 pm »
Bliley,hes only painting a van floor!!!!

Clever Forum Name

  • Posts: 5942
Re: Tips for applying Protectakote
« Reply #5 on: August 31, 2016, 07:28:16 pm »
It was just copied and pasted from a thread i did years ago.

Steve Weatherley

  • Posts: 699
Re: Tips for applying Protectakote
« Reply #6 on: August 31, 2016, 07:38:54 pm »
Thanks for a very informative post. My van has fresh new ply. Should I rub it down with sandpaper first?

jk999

  • Posts: 2091
Re: Tips for applying Protectakote
« Reply #7 on: September 01, 2016, 12:19:34 am »
Omg clever how was you applying paint was you using your hands and feet ,i have painted two vans with it in last eight years and it never went everywhere and i didnt get it on my shoes and clothes and i didn't wear a mask which i didn't get high are you sure it was protectakote you was using

Clever Forum Name

  • Posts: 5942
Re: Tips for applying Protectakote
« Reply #8 on: September 01, 2016, 06:58:54 am »
Why do you think I buy new vans and get Grippa tank to fit the systems now. I wish I was a DIY pro like some people. What a shame.

dazmond

  • Posts: 23981
Re: Tips for applying Protectakote
« Reply #9 on: September 01, 2016, 07:39:42 am »
or....just dont bother painting it at all.ive never had trouble with a van floor rusting/corroding(even with flooding the van at least  once a month).

has anyone ever had a van floor rot away due to wfp?
price higher/work harder!

sunshine windows

  • Posts: 2361
Re: Tips for applying Protectakote
« Reply #10 on: September 01, 2016, 07:50:39 am »
Being able to hold your breath for around 2 weeks comes in handy. 😂

You're supposed to key each area with sandpaper etc to aid the binding process.
I would definitely take the ply out and paint the van floor. Then refit the ply with a layer on the bottom 6 inches or so.
To climb mount fuji you must first find a path
(Swindon, Wiltshire)

www.sunshinewindowcleaning.co.uk
www.sunshinesoftwashing.co.uk

johnwillan

  • Posts: 313
Re: Tips for applying Protectakote
« Reply #11 on: September 01, 2016, 12:04:24 pm »
We used this method: Thoroughly clean area, remove all linings, "key" area using scouring pad and Cif, rinse thoroughly and dry. Apply Protectakote with Accelerator using a brush as shown on the instructions, clean any excess with Xylene, apply second coat (may require new brush) as per instructions, again clean excess and wait to harden. We never install floor lining, just side panels and steel bulkhead. Then as "Sunshine" states hold your breath for a few weeks.

Having said all that we now use "Speedliner" and Polypropylene side panels.


SeanK

Re: Tips for applying Protectakote
« Reply #12 on: September 01, 2016, 01:27:34 pm »
Dazmonds advice is the best on the subject, but if you really need to paint it for piece of mind then give the floor a light sanding
to remove the gloss finish which has a wax like effect on the paint, the mat pictured above is good advice to stop scrapping it.
Don put ply anywhere in your van you don't need it for window cleaning, Speedliner well that's just for people with more money
than sense. lol.

Arnold Palmer

  • Posts: 20800
Re: Tips for applying Protectakote
« Reply #13 on: September 01, 2016, 01:39:53 pm »
has anyone ever had a van floor rot away due to wfp?

That's a difficult one to confirm 100% isn't it? Vans rot no matter what you do with them, wetting them on a daily basis isn't going to help.
#aliens

SeanK

Re: Tips for applying Protectakote
« Reply #14 on: September 01, 2016, 02:33:55 pm »
Other than fords which rot under the floor most vans/vehicles don't give problems with rust, the thing is if your old
enough to remember when vehicles did rot you will remember that it didn't matter what you covered the metal in they
rusted anyway.
My fathers old Fiat 131 looked spotless on the outside even though the metal had rotted away under parts of the paintwork
leaving only the paint.
My vans floor is painted with Protectakote but the sides and roof aren't, they get wetter than the floor at times and don't rust.
As long as you don't scrape the paint already on the floor you wont get problems.