[Paul H]

Got a link to the aquarium heater that you use?

Deeege and Andy, I believe this is the one!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-POWERED-500W-1000W-SUBMERSIBLE-AQUARIUM-COMBINED-HEATER-THERMOSTAT-/181271061099?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&var=&hash=item2a3498e26b



One of these 1000w heaters in a 500 litre tank of water will raise the temperature to about 26-28 ºC in 7-8 hours, at about £1 in price.

Nick - when you drop it in the tank does it touch the side? Is there a risk of melting the plastic tank? I was always put off this because I heard you had to agitate the water to heat it equally throughout the tank. Am I wrong in thinking the back half of the tank would be cold? I have a 500l tank.

Cheers

Hi Carl!

Those two black plastic surrounds either end of the heater keep it from coming into contact with the tank.

Your concerns regarding the uneven pockets of heated water are largely taken care of by convection (the warmed water will rise allowing the cold water to come into contact with the heater) while the heater is switched on, and the stirring effect of movement whilst driving around.

Of course, there will always be a propensity for the warm water to slowly make its way to the top, but the overall process is not too profound.

Are these sufficient when used over night to (hopefully) prevent pump hose reel etc.. Freezing too as well as heating water in tank for next day ?

Thanks
Paul

[STEVE-UK]

For all that are fed up with your connectors disconnecting or protect ball getting caught

Place a washer on you male pole connector before fitting hose and 'o'ring as in attached image

[Mitchellmoxo]

For all that are fed up with your connectors disconnecting or protect ball getting caught

Place a washer on you male pole connector before fitting hose and 'o'ring as in attached image

that is brilliant

[Nick_Thompson]

Are these sufficient when used over night to (hopefully) prevent pump hose reel etc.. Freezing too as well as heating water in tank for next day ?ThanksPaul

If you take into account that it is going to be 4 or 5 hours before the water will be warm enough to start acting as a radiator, then yes Paul, it will easily provide frost protection for the back of your van after that time period has elapsed, and heat the water up at the same time.

I turn mine on at midnight when a freeze has been forecast which then provides the aforementioned, but on a few nights last winter, when the temperature had dropped way below freezing by 3 pm in the afternoon, I anticipated the severity of the cold and its effect on everything water related in my van by turning the heater on as soon as I return home from work with no problems.

[Paul H]

Are these sufficient when used over night to (hopefully) prevent pump hose reel etc.. Freezing too as well as heating water in tank for next day ?ThanksPaul

If you take into account that it is going to be 4 or 5 hours before the water will be warm enough to start acting as a radiator, then yes Paul, it will easily provide frost protection for the back of your van after that time period has elapsed, and heat the water up at the same time.

I turn mine on at midnight when a freeze has been forecasted which then provides the aforementioned, but on a few nights last winter, when the temperature had dropped way below freezing by 3 pm in the afternoon, I anticipated the severity of the cold and its effect on everything water related in my van by turning the heater on as soon as I return home from work with no problems.

Spot on thanks

[Nick_Thompson]

For all that are fed up with your connectors disconnecting or protect ball getting caught

Place a washer on you male pole connector before fitting hose and 'o'ring as in attached image

Would somebody be kind enough to post a picture of Steve's download, as I can't open it for some reason.

[rosskesava]

The cable ties for the hose and the washer - what brilliant ideas. I'm going to be using both so thanks for sharing.

I'm afraid I've got no hot ideas - I just muddle my way through things although recently I re discovered stick on velcro.

A lot of things that used to rattle around in the back of the van now don't. I've also stuck big strips of velcro on the hose reel and van floor so noe I can use that in the van or take it out.

[Nick_Thompson]

I've also stuck big strips of velcro on the hose reel and van floor so noe I can use that in the van or take it out.

That sounds interesting, Ross, got any pics?

[rosskesava]

Nick, there's not really anything worth taking a picture of.

It's just two 12 inch long strips of velcro on the van floor and velco stuck all over the bottom of the hose reel.

[Nick_Thompson]

Nick, there's not really anything worth taking a picture of.

It's just two 12 inch long strips of velcro on the van floor and velco stuck all over the bottom of the hose reel.

LOL, yeah, I know Ross, I just have an extremely poor imagination. 

Good idea, though.

[keyser soze]

i thought id give the tank heater a whirl. nice post nick

[G & M]

Paul are the fish tank heaters submerged under the water and are they in your tank all the time or do you put them in when required?
Thanks
Michael

[MATT BATEMAN (OWC)]

We've been known to use what is called a 'mop'. Please see item below. Fantastic piece of kit. I can see the Northern Ladder Monkeys loving these.

[Nick_Thompson]

Paul are the fish tank heaters submerged under the water and are they in your tank all the time or do you put them in when required?
Thanks
Michael

Just drop them in the tank when required, Mr G&M.

[G & M]

Thanks Nick

[Carl2009]

Here's a tip. We all know that SLX poles are the business, but that the clamp glue has, in the past, come loose of the pole. It doesn't help if you or your staff are a bit rough when collapsing each section - as one section slides into the other the clamps can take a bash at their base, just where the glue is.

What I've done is get a strip of duct tape 18" long (torn in half, lengthways) and wrapped it around each pole section, just below each clamp. It adds little to the collapsed length of the pole. If you let a section collapse onto the one below a bit hard the duct tape takes the impact, rather than the clamp  that is above it.

So far all my clamps have stayed put since I did this.

Worth a try?

Cheers

[AuRavelling79]

Here's a tip. We all know that SLX poles are the business, but that the clamp glue has, in the past, come loose of the pole. It doesn't help if you or your staff are a bit rough when collapsing each section - as one section slides into the other the clamps can take a bash at their base, just where the glue is.

What I've done is get a strip of duct tape 18" long (torn in half, lengthways) and wrapped it around each pole section, just below each clamp. It adds little to the collapsed length of the pole. If you let a section collapse onto the one below a bit hard the duct tape takes the impact, rather than the clamp  that is above it.

So far all my clamps have stayed put since I did this.

Worth a try?

Cheers

I agree - and I use gaffer tape for a temporary repair if a clamp gets loose and then leave it in place for weeks on end!

[Clever Forum Name]

Here's a tip. We all know that SLX poles are the business, but that the clamp glue has, in the past, come loose of the pole. It doesn't help if you or your staff are a bit rough when collapsing each section - as one section slides into the other the clamps can take a bash at their base, just where the glue is.

What I've done is get a strip of duct tape 18" long (torn in half, lengthways) and wrapped it around each pole section, just below each clamp. It adds little to the collapsed length of the pole. If you let a section collapse onto the one below a bit hard the duct tape takes the impact, rather than the clamp  that is above it.

So far all my clamps have stayed put since I did this.

Worth a try?

Cheers

Yeah its a good idea, we use rubber o rings about 3 or 4 of them per sections. Takes out all the shock

[Nick_Thompson]

Here's a tip. We all know that SLX poles are the business, but that the clamp glue has, in the past, come loose of the pole. It doesn't help if you or your staff are a bit rough when collapsing each section - as one section slides into the other the clamps can take a bash at their base, just where the glue is.

What I've done is get a strip of duct tape 18" long (torn in half, lengthways) and wrapped it around each pole section, just below each clamp. It adds little to the collapsed length of the pole. If you let a section collapse onto the one below a bit hard the duct tape takes the impact, rather than the clamp  that is above it.

So far all my clamps have stayed put since I did this.

Worth a try?

Cheers

Yeah its a good idea, we use rubber o rings about 3 or 4 of them per sections. Takes out all the shock

Hi Pure!

Where did you purchase the O rings, Sir?

[Clever Forum Name]

Ebay mate, got something like 1000 for £4

if i sat down and wrote out all my ideas we could be here all night