This is an advertisement
Interested In Advertising? | Contact Us Here

Warning!

 

Welcome to Clean It Up; the UK`s largest cleaning forum with over 34,000 members

 

Please login or register to post and reply to topics.      

 

Forgot your password? Click here

Spruce

  • Posts: 8462
Re: Steves HOT WATER element
« Reply #20 on: December 07, 2010, 11:43:20 am »
i to am going to fit one ive found that you can get machanical flange from tool station £13 . im going to fit it on the side of the tank near the base about 6" high
the 16amp cable can be bought in what ever length you need of ebay (16amp  240v) then im going to fit trip swich just incase.

drill a 62mm hole you will need a pipe drill with a hacksaw blade type teeth

Hi
Its called a hole saw and the cheap ones are usually used for cutting wood. The more expensive ones will cut steel as well. The cheap ones are fine for cutting plastics. I would recommend that you get someone to help you to catch the plastic bits on say a small tray/small sauce pan etc to stop them falling into the tank & floating around in it.
Success is 1% inspiration, 98% perspiration and 2% attention to detail!

The older I get, the better I was ;)

Poles R Us

Re: Steves HOT WATER element
« Reply #21 on: December 07, 2010, 11:52:52 am »
i though i would mop out tank first then dry with cloth cut hole then vacume it up after.cheers for the name of the drill bit

access

  • Posts: 30
Re: Steves HOT WATER element
« Reply #22 on: December 07, 2010, 01:04:56 pm »
HI GUYS, I HAVE JUST TRIED THIS METHOD . FITTED IT THROUGH A SPARE LID, IT WAS ON FOR ABOUT 5 MINS THEN STARTED TO MELT THE LID!! THE WATER WAS ABOUT 6 INCHES FROM THE TOP OF THE TANK. IF I HADNT BEEN WATCHING IT, IT WOULD OF FALLEN INTO THE WATER!!. ANYONE GOT ANY SUGGESTION ON HOW TO STOP THE TOP/NUT GETTING SO HOT? OR WOT CAN YOU USE THAT WONT MELT?........ BE WARNED GUYS, THIS COULD BE VERY DANGEROUS!!

Re: Steves HOT WATER element
« Reply #23 on: December 07, 2010, 01:12:57 pm »
access  put a pic up please mate  as shouldnt of done that  u might have fitted it in the wrong place

scud

  • Posts: 683
Re: Steves HOT WATER element
« Reply #24 on: December 07, 2010, 01:49:02 pm »
HI GUYS, I HAVE JUST TRIED THIS METHOD . FITTED IT THROUGH A SPARE LID, IT WAS ON FOR ABOUT 5 MINS THEN STARTED TO MELT THE LID!! THE WATER WAS ABOUT 6 INCHES FROM THE TOP OF THE TANK. IF I HADNT BEEN WATCHING IT, IT WOULD OF FALLEN INTO THE WATER!!. ANYONE GOT ANY SUGGESTION ON HOW TO STOP THE TOP/NUT GETTING SO HOT? OR WOT CAN YOU USE THAT WONT MELT?........ BE WARNED GUYS, THIS COULD BE VERY DANGEROUS!!

  I have mounted mine through a piece of hardboard about 10mm thick. I cut a disc to sit in the lid hole and then put the element through that.

  all I have found is that as the element is at the top of the tank and the hot watwer rises up you need to set the thermostat at about 55-60 to stop it cutting out when the water around it is just getting warm and leaving the rest of the tank cold.

  I think it would be best towards the base of the tank, but I am not cutting a big hole in my £170 tank as I am sure you will weaken it, ands at the very least end up with longterm leakage problems.

will77

  • Posts: 52
Re: Steves HOT WATER element
« Reply #25 on: December 07, 2010, 02:13:46 pm »
search for submersible pond heater on ebay. like a fish tank heater but bigger and tougher. it sits at the bottom of tank so you can drop in in from the top opening without the need to cut holes. prices from around £100

bobplum

  • Posts: 5602
Re: Steves HOT WATER element
« Reply #26 on: December 07, 2010, 03:02:36 pm »
HI GUYS, I HAVE JUST TRIED THIS METHOD . FITTED IT THROUGH A SPARE LID, IT WAS ON FOR ABOUT 5 MINS THEN STARTED TO MELT THE LID!! THE WATER WAS ABOUT 6 INCHES FROM THE TOP OF THE TANK. IF I HADNT BEEN WATCHING IT, IT WOULD OF FALLEN INTO THE WATER!!. ANYONE GOT ANY SUGGESTION ON HOW TO STOP THE TOP/NUT GETTING SO HOT? OR WOT CAN YOU USE THAT WONT MELT?........ BE WARNED GUYS, THIS COULD BE VERY DANGEROUS!!

  I have mounted mine through a piece of hardboard about 10mm thick. I cut a disc to sit in the lid hole and then put the element through that.

  all I have found is that as the element is at the top of the tank and the hot watwer rises up you need to set the thermostat at about 55-60 to stop it cutting out when the water around it is just getting warm and leaving the rest of the tank cold.

  I think it would be best towards the base of the tank, but I am not cutting a big hole in my £170 tank as I am sure you will weaken it, ands at the very least end up with longterm leakage problems.

i have done the same as you only got it on 40 degrees at the moment as i experiment with it will probably knock it up to 60 and see how it goes
bob

geefree

  • Posts: 6180
Re: Steves HOT WATER element
« Reply #27 on: December 07, 2010, 06:20:38 pm »
Ok,

Its all done.i have a 640 ibc... i have it at the centre of the tank, and a foot from the bottom..... as on the instructions it obviously heats water there and above first....so the lower the better,

Myself and my mate now have one, the flange cost £4 for two,

you only need one inside the tank, as the element has a thread on,

myself and my mate did it this afternoon, ( well, i hardly did a thing, cheers Dean, ;) )

we have all the right cable, and cut off switches,

my tank is filling now, so wont take long to reach the element,

For my first attempt in the morning,  i will wake up at 5am and switch it on, and switch off my radiator,

I will keep an eye on it , and after that ,its going on a timer.


geefree

  • Posts: 6180
Re: Steves HOT WATER element
« Reply #28 on: December 07, 2010, 06:24:07 pm »
HI GUYS, I HAVE JUST TRIED THIS METHOD . FITTED IT THROUGH A SPARE LID, IT WAS ON FOR ABOUT 5 MINS THEN STARTED TO MELT THE LID!! THE WATER WAS ABOUT 6 INCHES FROM THE TOP OF THE TANK. IF I HADNT BEEN WATCHING IT, IT WOULD OF FALLEN INTO THE WATER!!. ANYONE GOT ANY SUGGESTION ON HOW TO STOP THE TOP/NUT GETTING SO HOT? OR WOT CAN YOU USE THAT WONT MELT?........ BE WARNED GUYS, THIS COULD BE VERY DANGEROUS!!

Have you put the asbestos washer on in between the plastic and element?

BORBRYCE

Re: Steves HOT WATER element
« Reply #29 on: December 07, 2010, 06:26:59 pm »
and after that ,its going on a timer

How exactly do you get it on a timer, what is involved?

geefree

  • Posts: 6180
Re: Steves HOT WATER element
« Reply #30 on: December 07, 2010, 06:44:17 pm »
Just a standard plug timer fitted ....sits in the socket of the extention , then  the element plugs into that.  ;)

lyndy

  • Posts: 384
Re: Steves HOT WATER element
« Reply #31 on: December 07, 2010, 06:47:32 pm »
I had mine on for 3 hours the water was very warm,but still came out of the hose very cold.I did mount it at the top a 27inch one

geefree

  • Posts: 6180
Re: Steves HOT WATER element
« Reply #32 on: December 07, 2010, 06:54:01 pm »
I had mine on for 3 hours the water was very warm,but still came out of the hose very cold.I did mount it at the top a 27inch one

Maybe because the element is at the top, it feels warm by the lid, and the bottom is cold, if your water comes out at the bottom that is....

the instructions on the element stated it should be placed at the bottom of the tank, as it heats everything above ... first.

access

  • Posts: 30
Re: Steves HOT WATER element
« Reply #33 on: December 07, 2010, 07:06:58 pm »
gazza- will an asbestos washer stop the extreme heat ???? ??? I was not supplied with one/2 ?

Bluemonkey- how can it be fitted in the wrong place?? no matter where you put it, is the wrong place apart from inside a hot water cylinder !
if it melted the plastic lid-then surely it will go straight trough the white plastic of a tank also????
however, please elaborate as i am interested in your thoughts..

as i understand, these are made to be fitted at the bottom of a hot water cylinder so the actual water that sits 'on top' of the connection box (inside the hotwatercylinder)will keep the temp down at connection point. When fitted upside down, in an ibc,  the water will NEVER be covering the whole element completely and the connection box is just going to get too hot due to the dry heat from just underneath it.

I fail to see how some of you have not had this problem yet?

The temp was set at 50 on mine to test....and as i said, it just got proper hot within 5 mins.!! Even wood will not last that long before it burns through.

Am i missing something here?

need to get this sorted asap, or im gonna go get an l5 heater.

Does anyone use an l5~~??? any good, some opinion from exp. is most welcomed. ;D


formb

Re: Steves HOT WATER element
« Reply #34 on: December 07, 2010, 07:08:19 pm »
We fitted one of these today. We fitted it horizontally at the bottom of the tank.

The one we got needs to be totally submerged, otherwise the fitting will get too hot and either melt the tank or burn out.

The water draws the heat out of the element.

geefree

  • Posts: 6180
Re: Steves HOT WATER element
« Reply #35 on: December 07, 2010, 07:45:25 pm »
gazza- will an asbestos washer stop the extreme heat ???? ??? I was not supplied with one/2 ?

Bluemonkey- how can it be fitted in the wrong place?? no matter where you put it, is the wrong place apart from inside a hot water cylinder !
if it melted the plastic lid-then surely it will go straight trough the white plastic of a tank also????
however, please elaborate as i am interested in your thoughts..

as i understand, these are made to be fitted at the bottom of a hot water cylinder so the actual water that sits 'on top' of the connection box (inside the hofoolercylinder)will keep the temp down at connection point. When fitted upside down, in an ibc,  the water will NEVER be covering the whole element completely and the connection box is just going to get too hot due to the dry heat from just underneath it.

I fail to see how some of you have not had this problem yet?

The temp was set at 50 on mine to test....and as i said, it just got proper hot within 5 mins.!! Even wood will not last that long before it burns through.

Am i missing something here?

need to get this sorted asap, or im gonna go get an l5 heater.

Does anyone use an l5~~??? any good, some opinion from exp. is most welcomed. ;D



its fitted at the bottom of the tank horizontally.

geefree

  • Posts: 6180
Re: Steves HOT WATER element
« Reply #36 on: December 07, 2010, 07:50:01 pm »
And the end of the element with the wire cover on  outside the tank....... is cold to touch.  ;)

petski2

  • Posts: 652
Re: Steves HOT WATER element
« Reply #37 on: December 07, 2010, 08:04:58 pm »
Gazza,where did you get the retaining nut from m8 and drill bet?

access

  • Posts: 30
Re: Steves HOT WATER element
« Reply #38 on: December 07, 2010, 08:16:12 pm »
gazza- i understand wher u comin from as yours is fitted at the bottom/side,so the heat is kept down by the water.  but the guy who originally posted this  on here had put his in at the top, as did 1 other and they say they are working fine.?

i am not about to cut a 2 inch hole in the bottom or side of my pro 5. its just not worth it.
 Thus experimenting with a spare lid off an ibc and fitting exactly as steve did.

 It needs the water to be right upto the flange nut as yours is for it to work correctly and not overheat. fair play to you, if it works then game on!!


geefree

  • Posts: 6180
Re: Steves HOT WATER element
« Reply #39 on: December 07, 2010, 08:39:47 pm »
Thanks for replies,

yes its at the bottom with a two inch cut out,

cat you just cut out a hole in the top... not the lid... it will work as some have said , but i dont know how Steve does it without totally submerging it,

Pete, i got the flange from farrahs, and the 63mm drill bit from b and q...it comes in a set of six for around £8,

but if you are stood at the counter at farrahs, look directly behind you... there is a set of cut out bits  for £6  ;)

its a 2 and 1/4 flange but take the element in with you bud.