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dmlservices

  • Posts: 981
Re: Holster tap vs tap on pole
« Reply #20 on: May 09, 2010, 06:58:47 pm »
hi peter
it was the side to side version, basically i do a lot of windows , where the casement wall was close to frame , had problems when cleaning frames , as i would accidently hit bar, and stop flow.

daz

Peter Fogwill

  • Posts: 1415
Re: Holster tap vs tap on pole
« Reply #21 on: May 09, 2010, 07:17:10 pm »
Thanks for that daz.

That must have been a long time ago.  The Autobrush has come a long way since that version.  The valves themselves are more or less trouble free, and because it is up and down to control the water accidental turn off is nearly impossible.  Worse case scenario is lack of window sills, in which case you would just use it as a normal brush leaving the water on.

Peter

tomy jackson

Re: Holster tap vs tap on pole
« Reply #22 on: May 09, 2010, 08:01:44 pm »
it ocers to me that it neads to be dubel clike on botom of brush ,and liter

Peter Fogwill

  • Posts: 1415
Re: Holster tap vs tap on pole
« Reply #23 on: May 09, 2010, 08:28:23 pm »
Hi Tomy,

The Autobrush is one of the lightest brushes on the market.

Where better to have the brush turn on than up in the left corner of the window where most people will start the clean?  If it started at the bottom of the window then it would need to then travel to the top to start the clean.

Peter

tomy jackson

Re: Holster tap vs tap on pole
« Reply #24 on: May 09, 2010, 09:54:38 pm »
il have to have a look in your shop .i use sl dt the new est

Peter Fogwill

  • Posts: 1415
Re: Holster tap vs tap on pole
« Reply #25 on: May 09, 2010, 11:31:07 pm »
Have a look here if you want to see how it works....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y1V7uQd-mDY&feature=channel

Peter

[GQC] Tim

  • Posts: 4536
Re: Holster tap vs tap on pole
« Reply #26 on: May 10, 2010, 01:47:30 pm »
have used autobrush, tap , and trigger , liked the trigger best, but now use a ez snap no tap, if i want to stop flow can just fold pole hose over and pinch, or dissconnect at ez snap, best way ;)

daz

daz, can I ask you the reason the trigger was better than the Autobrush?  I am always looking for ways of making improvements and your feedback would be appreciated.  Was the Autobush you used the up and down, turn on and off?  And I take it you use different sizes of poles for different heights of windows, rather than adding and taking away sections??

Peter

The reason why a trigger on the pole will in my opinion always be better then the autobrush is that you have complete control over the water flow within a fraction of a second, switching panes very quickly without losing a drop of water. If you are doing bigger panes, going to the outer wall to tap it off is cumbersome and takes more time, especially on high level cleans. If you are skilled with a trigger you can even regulate the flow for whichever purpose you would need to do so. Also, if you have tricky cleans where you need absolute control over where the water goes, you don't want to mess about with knocking it against the wall and water going up against the framework. You want instant control over the water.

This is especially true of the up/down version. Going up to the top of the frame and then soaking the frame is a no go unless you don't mind doing the whole frame on every clean, which will in turn take a lot longer then regular maintenance cleans where you don't need to focus on the top frame unless they are visually dirty enough to warrant a clean. Also, if you have just cleaned the entire frame and glass you don't want to go back up the frame again to shut off the flow of water, splashing water against the top frame again.

I have found no benefit whatsoever of an autobrush over a trigger setup plus it makes the brush heavier, and downgrades the precision of the water fed pole due to the afore mentioned problems.

This is just my opinion Peter, but since you asked a member what their opinions are about it, and if it can be improved, I didn't think you would mind me chipping in with my opinion.

groundhog

  • Posts: 1806
Re: Holster tap vs tap on pole
« Reply #27 on: May 10, 2010, 06:24:59 pm »
Looks like a good idea to me Peter, I normally do the tops of the frames these days unless they have a vent as it dosn't really take any longer if you do it each clean!! But if you really don't want to clean them Tim, then I would have thought that you could simply tap the autobrush underneath the sill!! It's got to be better than using a clumsy trigger!!

I might well invest in one of those Peter, and might even try one of your clampless poles!!  :)

[GQC] Tim

  • Posts: 4536
Re: Holster tap vs tap on pole
« Reply #28 on: May 10, 2010, 06:35:13 pm »
Looks like a good idea to me Peter, I normally do the tops of the frames these days unless they have a vent as it dosn't really take any longer if you do it each clean!! But if you really don't want to clean them Tim, the I would have thought that you could simply tap the autobrush underneath the sill!! It's go to be better than using a clumsy trigger!!

I might well invest in one of those Peter, and might even try one of your clampless poles!!  :)

Clumsy trigger? What makes you say that? It makes life a lot easier.

Peter Fogwill

  • Posts: 1415
Re: Holster tap vs tap on pole
« Reply #29 on: May 10, 2010, 06:41:27 pm »


The reason why a trigger on the pole will in my opinion always be better then the autobrush is that you have complete control over the water flow within a fraction of a second, switching panes very quickly without losing a drop of water. If you are doing bigger panes, going to the outer wall to tap it off is cumbersome and takes more time, especially on high level cleans. If you are skilled with a trigger you can even regulate the flow for whichever purpose you would need to do so. Also, if you have tricky cleans where you need absolute control over where the water goes, you don't want to mess about with knocking it against the wall and water going up against the framework. You want instant control over the water.

This is especially true of the up/down version. Going up to the top of the frame and then soaking the frame is a no go unless you don't mind doing the whole frame on every clean, which will in turn take a lot longer then regular maintenance cleans where you don't need to focus on the top frame unless they are visually dirty enough to warrant a clean. Also, if you have just cleaned the entire frame and glass you don't want to go back up the frame again to shut off the flow of water, splashing water against the top frame again.

I have found no benefit whatsoever of an autobrush over a trigger setup plus it makes the brush heavier, and downgrades the precision of the water fed pole due to the afore mentioned problems.

This is just my opinion Peter, but since you asked a member what their opinions are about it, and if it can be improved, I didn't think you would mind me chipping in with my opinion.

No Tim I don't mind you chipping in at all, I appreciate it.  Although you have never used the new up and down style, I see you have used the old style.  I will address each of the issues you have brought up.

Quote
The reason why a trigger on the pole will in my opinion always be better then the autobrush is that you have complete control over the water flow within a fraction of a second, switching panes very quickly without losing a drop of water. If you are doing bigger panes, going to the outer wall to tap it off is cumbersome and takes more time, especially on high level cleans. If you are skilled with a trigger you can even regulate the flow for whichever purpose you would need to do so. Also, if you have tricky cleans where you need absolute control over where the water goes, you don't want to mess about with knocking it against the wall and water going up against the framework. You want instant control over the water.

It takes the same amount of time to turn the water on and off with an Autobrush as it does with a trigger, With the Autobrush you are turning the water on where you start the window, and turning the water off where you are finishing the window, and once you get into the swing of it a simple change of the pole angle and the water is off.

I personally don't want to regulate the flow of water apart from on or off.  I want the water at full flow when it is flowing, I would never want something in between, I can't see any reason for it.  And all this without the disadvantages of the trigger which I am sure you will agree there is disadvantages?

Quote
This is especially true of the up/down version. Going up to the top of the frame and then soaking the frame is a no go unless you don't mind doing the whole frame on every clean, which will in turn take a lot longer then regular maintenance cleans where you don't need to focus on the top frame unless they are visually dirty enough to warrant a clean. Also, if you have just cleaned the entire frame and glass you don't want to go back up the frame again to shut off the flow of water, splashing water against the top frame again.

As you have never used the newer version I will explain a bit about it.  Yes you will be wetting a bit of the frame where you turn the brush on, but only the width of the brush.  If you are cleaning the frames then you would run the brush along the top of the frame.  If like you said you don't want to clean the frame, then still no problem you instantly go to the top of the glass avoiding the frame.  Yes you have wet a brush width of the frame, but you have done that the last time, and the time before that as well, so it is clean, and water running down from there will be clean.  You don't go back up the glass to turn the water off, you are turning if off at the bottom, usually the right hand side at the bottom where you are finishing off the window.

Quote
I have found no benefit whatsoever of an autobrush over a trigger setup plus it makes the brush heavier, and downgrades the precision of the water fed pole due to the afore mentioned problems.

You have used the old style Autobrush and there is a good chance it would have been with the old 15" brush I used to use.  This brush was much heavier than the brush I use now, and even with the attachments needed this is one of the lightest brushes on the market.  Very easy to add and take away sections, no weight issues, and no big loop of hose catching on everything.

Peter


Peter Fogwill

  • Posts: 1415
Re: Holster tap vs tap on pole
« Reply #30 on: May 10, 2010, 06:48:15 pm »
Looks like a good idea to me Peter, I normally do the tops of the frames these days unless they have a vent as it dosn't really take any longer if you do it each clean!! But if you really don't want to clean them Tim, the I would have thought that you could simply tap the autobrush underneath the sill!! It's go to be better than using a clumsy trigger!!

I might well invest in one of those Peter, and might even try one of your clampless poles!!  :)

You can tap it underneath the sill but you are wasting all the water in the time that it would take you to get the brush from the sill to the top of the glass.  You can also use the wall near the top of the window to turn the water on, but like I have just explained above there is no disadvantage using the top of the frame, even if you don't want to clean the frame.

I have the Autobrush available, but not the clampless pole.

I will have a new website out shortly where all the things like brushes connectors etc can all be bough online.

Peter

dazmond

  • Posts: 23967
Re: Holster tap vs tap on pole
« Reply #31 on: May 10, 2010, 07:19:06 pm »
i do like the sound of the autobrush peter!i for one one will be ordering one when i get my full wfp set up to try for myself!the thought of messing about with a trigger or a tap on pole dont appeal to me!

to be able to turn water on and off with ease at the brush sounds great and i bet it saves on water too(as i will be using a trolley)


regards

dazmond
price higher/work harder!

groundhog

  • Posts: 1806
Re: Holster tap vs tap on pole
« Reply #32 on: May 10, 2010, 07:59:31 pm »

I have the Autobrush available, but not the clampless pole.

I will have a new website out shortly where all the things like brushes connectors etc can all be bough online.

Peter

Are you not making the clampless poles anymore then Peter?  ???

windowswashed

  • Posts: 2577
Re: Holster tap vs tap on pole
« Reply #33 on: May 10, 2010, 10:28:47 pm »
Tap on pole is better than on holster with a wet leg. Or fold the pole hose so it pinches (easiest method on modular pole work).

Peter Fogwill

  • Posts: 1415
Re: Holster tap vs tap on pole
« Reply #34 on: May 11, 2010, 12:26:22 am »

Are you not making the clampless poles anymore then Peter?  ???

One of these days groundhog.  It is just so hard relying on someone else making what you need made.

Peter

Peter Fogwill

  • Posts: 1415
Re: Holster tap vs tap on pole
« Reply #35 on: May 11, 2010, 12:44:50 am »
i do like the sound of the autobrush peter!i for one one will be ordering one when i get my full wfp set up to try for myself!the thought of messing about with a trigger or a tap on pole dont appeal to me!

to be able to turn water on and off with ease at the brush sounds great and i bet it saves on water too(as i will be using a trolley)

regards

dazmond

I am sure you will like the Autobrush especially if you try a different method first.

What I have been thinking of was to give a full money back guarantee, with no questions asked, well unless you wanted to give feedback.  Return it within say a week for a full refund.

I am sure I won't get many back.  Would this help persuade anyone to give it a try?

Peter

prestigeclean

  • Posts: 618
Re: Holster tap vs tap on pole
« Reply #36 on: May 11, 2010, 04:24:02 pm »
can you supply them with pencil jets , i bought one before and the water just dribbled out regards alan

Peter Fogwill

  • Posts: 1415
Re: Holster tap vs tap on pole
« Reply #37 on: May 11, 2010, 04:58:01 pm »
Yes I can Alan.  Do you use a back pack?

Peter

dazmond

  • Posts: 23967
Re: Holster tap vs tap on pole
« Reply #38 on: May 11, 2010, 06:18:06 pm »
the fan jets look great in the video!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
price higher/work harder!

jefftemperley

  • Posts: 277
Re: Holster tap vs tap on pole
« Reply #39 on: May 11, 2010, 07:12:16 pm »
tap at the brush head
rectus fitting 10 inches from bottom of pole
use the microbore as pole hose instead of having 30 ft spare  flapping around, just remove end cap replace with hose to protect pole. rectus fitting will go up inside pole no problem
bad weather always looks worse through dirty windows