[david@zap-clean]

Has anyone cleaned any of this stuff: faux-sisal-woven-vinyl-flooring
...I've just quoted to clean some after a roof/water leak caused salt/tide marks.

It looks simple enough (HWE), but it's new to me.

[jim mca]

David

Have you got any pictures or links to the manufacturer sisal sisal sisal

[david@zap-clean]

Here's a photo from the quote:

[nigel h]

I'm i right in saying the flooring is a plastic/vinyl material, that looks like a woven sisal. 

[garyhumphreys]

Acid rinse will help sort the salt marks.

[Norbert]

Hi David,

I found this US website that supplies synthetic sisal and pasted their cleaning and maintenance guide for general information.

I hope it's of some help for you.

Good cleaning Phil 

http://www.sisalcarpet.com/Caring for Synthetic Floorcoverings

Our synthetic sisal floor coverings are easy to clean and maintain. Click or scroll down for our manufacturers' recommendations for:
##Synthesis
##Eclipse
##Bolon
##Anywhere

Synthesis, Eclipse & Bolon

Everyday Maintenance
Sweep or vacuum regularly to remove dirt. Using a vacuum with a roller brush is best for removing trapped dirt from the texture of synthetic sisal flooring.

Wipe up spills promptly to avoid stains. Wash your floor as needed with a mop and warm water. For a more through cleaning use soft brushes. Clean flooring with a neutral solution or a slightly alkaline solution by rubbing with a soft brush. Rinse with water after alkaline solution is used. Do not use dishwashing liquids or detergent soap cleaners, which can leave a sticky residue and attract soil, and cause a reduction of gloss.

Always move heavy furniture and appliances with care to avoid gouging or tearing the floor.

Treating Stains & Spills
Stains and spills such as acids, alkalis, blood, catsup, mustard, cleaners, strong soaps, dye, dye markings, food, candy, fruit and fruit juices, grass, iodine, rust, urine:
•Blot up excess at once.
•Rub lightly with a cloth dipped in mineral spirits.
•If paint has dried on the surface, gently peel it from the floor.
•Clean area with water.

Stains that won't wipe up such as adhesives, asphalt, chewing gum, oil, grease, candle wax, tar:
•Remove excess with a dull kitchen knife.
•Rub lightly with mineral spirits on a clean cloth.
•Clean area with water.

[rich123]

So if that is NATURAL Sisal, not synthetic,
can you clean it, and what's the method,
or is it best left well alone?

Rich

[Norbert]

Hi Rich,

The American company who make faux/synthetic sisal only recommend cleaning their natural sisal rugs with a dry powder method, they recommend the Host system. And tell their customers never to use the hot water extraction method at all on their NATURAL sisal rugs.

They've listed the various ways of treating stains on their natural sisal rugs on the website, which I've pasted below.

The website's at  www.sisalcarpet.com › Floorcoverings › Natural Sisal
Phil

Cleaning Natural Fiber Rugs

Spilling on sisal is never a good thing; however, there are ways to make accidents a little less obvious. Below is a chart with common types of spills and stains and the best thing(s) you can do to help. Use the mixtures and combinations described in the key at the bottom of the page according to the spill type listed in the chart. Always place solutions in a spray bottle and mist them lightly onto the soiled spot—using the minimum amount of liquid.
Good luck!

SPOT CLEANING CHART
Refer to the key below the chart for treatment guidelines.
The Spill   Remedy         

Beer or Liquor   A or D      Ketchup   A or C
Blood   A      Lipstick   A or B
Butter   A or B      Mascara   A or B
Candy   A or E      Mayonnaise   A or C
Gum   A or G      Merthiolate   A and E
Chocolate   A or E      Milk   A and E
Coffee   A or D      Nail Polish   I and A
Crayon   B and A      Oil - cooking   A or B
Egg   A or C      Oil - furniture   A or B
Feces   A or C      Paint - latex   A or F
Food Coloring   C and A      Paint - oil base   A or B
Fruit Juice   A or E      Rust   A
Furniture Polish   A or C      Shoe Polish   A or B
Glue - model    I      Soft Drinks   A or E
Glue - white   C and A      Tar   A and B
Gravy   A or E      Tea   A or D
Hair Spray   A or B      Urine   A or E
Hand Lotion   A or B      Watercolors   A or F
Ice Cream   A or E      Wax   G
Ink   A or B      Wine   A or E

Key
See the definitions of "solvent," "detergent," " vinegar" and "ammonia" below...

A   Use HOST Dry Cleaner for Carpets
   
B   Solvent, blot, detergent, blot, water, blot
   
C   Detergent, blot, ammonia, blot, detergent, blot, water, blot
   
D   Detergent, blot, vinegar, blot, detergent, blot, water, blot
   
E   Detergent, blot, ammonia, blot, vinegar, blot, detergent, blot, water, blot
   
F   Detergent, blot, ammonia, blot, water, blot, solvent, blot
   
G   Freeze with ice cube, shatter with blunt object, vacuum, solvent, blot
(For wax, place paper over wax, iron with warm (not hot) iron to absorb)
   
H   Cool water, blot, ammonia, blot, detergent, blot, water, blot
   
I   Acetone polish remover, blot, repeat
   
Solvent = HOST Spot Remover, or any commercial dry cleaning solvent
Detergent = 1 tsp laundry detergent (without bleach) + 1 cup lukewarm water
Vinegar = 1/4 cup white vinegar + 1/4 cup water
Ammonia = 1 tsp clear household ammonia and 1/2 cup water

[rich123]

Great, thankyou.
Ill print that off for future reference.

Rich

[david@zap-clean]

Here's a photo from the quote:

I finally got called in to do this job last week...  As soon as you get the flooring wet the staining disappears (until it dries).
I've tried 3 times and cannot shift the white chalky marks:

Initially I HWE cleaned with a 'safe mild pH solution', and acid rinsed.
Then I used a strong pH alkaline solution and scrubbed a bit harder (minor improvement).
Third trip - examine the white deposits with a microscope - lots of calcification (looks like) in weave.  I bonneted with an abrasive pad and encap solution.

Anyone have any idea what I should do next.  I've a suspicion the customer has added to this problem - when I spray water on the flooring it seems to 'fizz-up' in the bad areas!

[Simon Gerrard]

Yes, leave it alone.
You've given it your best shot and rather than risk making it worse, I'd leave it well alone. Experience tells me to know when you're beaten rather than play the hero and end up owning it.

Simon

[adrian marsh]

Wise words from Mr Gerrard David. Might be an interesting experiment, but not in the clients home.

[Carpet Dawg]

Like Simon said walk away. Put it down to experience, you'll eventually develop a sixth sense for the dodgy time wasting jobs. If the staining is still there i wouldn't charge but thats up to you.

I cleaned a matt like that just the other week. The customer wanted me to clean just the boarder which was a cotton looking fabric (it was part of a bigger job). When i noticed the sisal was actually vinyl, so i hwe the whole lot and looks great once cleaned. Didn't have those white marks on it though just grubby as hell.

[Simon Gerrard]

What you've got to remember in these type of situations is that you did NOT cause that particular problem. If, for reasons of bravado, inexperience, or simply not knowing what could go wrong, you press ahead and try ever more elaborate ways to fix it and it makes matters worse, then the chances are you'll do it for the wrong person, the type of person that will seize upon your mistake and hold you responsible for ruining their carpet.
A well honed sense of caution is no bad thing for a professional carpet cleaner to develop.

Simon

[Jamie Pearson]

Its called Bolon.

It may be possible to remove this using Chemspec DFC Calcium Lime & Rust Remover.

[david@zap-clean]

Thanks for the advice Simon (and all),  I agree.

I qualify all my stain removal jobs before I start with 'no guarantee of complete removal', so they should feel they've had their moneys worth out of me.

Cheers,

[Lee Jenkins]

I've seen it used in the foyers in some motorway service stations between Glasgow and Manchester. this doesn't help you but it shows there must be a way of getting it clean every day.