[brucie]

What methods / chemicals do you guys find best for the removal of draft marks around the the edges of carpets ? :

[John_Flynn]

Prochem Ultrapac Renovate every time.

[lee_gundry]

i second that jonny boy.

[John_Flynn]

That's me boy Fatso.

[Robert_O]

Variation of filtration soiling

I have found Citrus Gel effective in the removal of small filtration contaminations by gently aggitated in to the fibres and rinsing.

Ultrapack Renovate is also a good product to remove carbon filtration deposits, although technically it is not compatable with wool due to the high pH. My thoughts are that this can be used if neutralised appropriately.
Others may have a different opinion on this however.

Just a little useless info for the newbies:

Black spots around the edge of the room may be caused through small puncture holes within the backing of the carpet, where air is allowed to filter through. The air finds the easiest accessable route and draws with it dust carbon and environmental pollutants creating localised spotting or filtration lines.

This often may be caused through the spikes of a carpet stretcher being set to deep, or the gripper spikes penetrating through the primary backing to the surface.

This commonly occurrs when a carpet is also slightly away from the edges allowing the subfloor air currents easier escape access.

Sometimes you can also find that when light coloured fibres are wetted they become slightly translucent, enabling the viewer to see deeper contaminants such as filtration soil within the fibres. Once the fibres are dry often staining can subside to hide these deeper discolourations.


Kind regards

Robert Olifent

[carpet_bright]

I find that Prochem Multipro works fine with general draft marks with good agitation (as always).
Can't say I've used Ultrapack Renovate but sounds like it's the biz!  

Paul

[Dave Parry]

I prespray with ashbys anti-grease, agitate then clean as normal. Works fine.

[Dynafoam]

Like other posters here , for years I automaticaly went for the U/pac for all filtration marks, but since my conversion to micro-splitters I find that they come out well without.

John.

[Derek]

Hi John

The 'Boltons' agree on this one...couple that with the  CFR hand tool and you have an excellent system

Regards
Derek

[Nigel_W]

Years ago I did a hand out for clients to inform them about draft marking,. I got fed up with carpet suppliers telling them that it was because there vacuum cleaner wouldn't clean to the edge. See link:-


http://www.designcare.co.uk/new_page_4.htm

As far as cleaning draft marking is concerned heat and agitation seem to be the keys to succesful removal. One step, multi pro, ultrapac, stain pro all work - but all work better if agitated and rinsed with very hot solution. I also agree with the "Bolton" twins that the cfr tool is good for this.

The other thing that occurs to me is that all draft marking is not the same. It is unique to each property and therefore different chemicals work better in different properties. It is worth experimenting.

In my experience the worst kind of draft marking is the one across the centre of the room in the shape of the floorboards. For some reason these seem to hardly ever come out?


Nigel

[ALEXDH]

I have seen some door draught marking that is made worse as the carpet had not been fitted flatly.or its because the carpet has pushed out due to traffic.

You see a smallish hump develop leading into the door way preceding it going under the gripper.

I think this little hump creates an area which is exposed to more wear and on close examination you can see the fibres of the pile are not only draight marked but actually damaged, (like a really bad traffic lane) i would  ensure you are not trying to restore badly scratched synthetic fibers which in effect has lot of gouges in the firbre.It may give you the impression you are not removing the soil.

Hope that makes sense

Alex

[strakercleaning]

Always used Ashby's Anti Grease, with great success and effort.  :
Now converted to Solutions........great success and little effort

[Dynafoam]

Nigel,

I agree that filtration marks do vary. I have often found that, after removal of the black, a yellow marking remained. I used to assume that this was due to the smoke suphates but, under doors, this could sometimes be phenolic yelowing.

I recall one particular 2-day job,  a three-story victorian house in SE London. On the upper floors all the carpets were pale-coloured polypropolene and the floorboards had shrunk after installation of central heating. The parallel black lines only responded to a rotary shampoo with Ultrapack, a 20 minute dwell, an extraction rinse and finally bonnet buffing with Prochem Bonnet Buff.

I think that the reason for the added dificulty in removeing these marks is due to the fact that they are sorced beneat the carpet and pad, so innitial attempts at removal cause the carbon ect. to be drawn from beneath both by vacuum and wicking.

John.

[Cloverleaf]

I will sometimes use a high ph cleaner to remove draught marks on synthetics, but on wool I use cytrus gel which works every time. I will charge extra for time and chemical as can be one houre extra per room on job.
I also seem to come across more draught marks caused by carpet kickers causing finger prints in newer homes, beware they take ages to get out! I now make a point of charging for time and chems, it costs me money to get em out so charge plenty.
John

[Len Gribble]

Hi Cloverleaf

I was just going to ask the question about charging more for draft makes thanks for the input, I think one should, customers time cost money why shouldn’t yours. Dose any one-charge charge extra says for removing red wine/paint etc.

Len

[John_Flynn]

I believe that all stain removal should be charged as an extra, after all cleaning is NOT stain removal, though most punters think that it is.

I priced a job at a Rugby club a few months ago and told them chewing gum removal would cost more money, they did not like it, stating they though I was going to clean the carpets and that involved removing the CHEWY.

[Derek]

John

I do so agree with your first statement....BUT unfortunately we live in a slightly different world.

My rule of thumb is as follows....

I state that I will treat all stains to the best advantage which is not a commitment to total removal...often impossible after they have had a go or series of goes !!!

I clean the carpets and treat stains with a basic standard stain removal product (I probably take a couple in with me)  
If I have to resort to anything more than this i.e. taking in a steam unit ... or my spot removal case etc. then I will be looking to make an additional charge.

Derek

[Dynafoam]

Derek,

The Boltons are not so diferent, I ommited to mention that the 'heroic' efforts on the floorboard marks added an extra £200.00 to the bill.

My barber has a large note at the bottom of his price list:

"All extras will be charged for"

John.

[woodman]

Hi Brucie

I have never come across a truly effective method to completley remove filtration marks on carpets including Prochems Renovate.
You can certainly improve the situation but you must qualify this with the customer as these marks will always return unless the problem causing it is overcome.

All properties especially the older type are designed to breath so there is air movement through the property.The carpet will simply filter the air leaving behind the dark marks .

Some of us have seen incidents where you can actually see the outline of the floor boards through the carpet as a result of filtration.
As mentioned poor fitting will result in marking and if this occurs the client can have the carpet renewed at the fitters expense.
The kicker if too low will puncture the backing, as a result you will notice what look like fingers marks at the edge of the carpet.Also if the underlay is not taped together a long filtration marks can run the length of a room and of course the usual black line that runs around the edges.
Newly laid carpets can start to deteriorate within weeks of fitting and the causes have to be rectified as soon as possible.
This is done by sealing the edges between the floorboard and the skirting,laying underlay on top of hessian paper and taping the underlay together, you can charge good money for this but is still not a guarantee of proofing.