[SPE]

Hi Ian, I have one of your digital flow controllers, upgraded to it a couple of years ago from your original analogue one because I bought a new vyair pump and the analogue would'nt work with if the flow was too low.
 Anyhow , having a problem with the digi one for months now.
On a high flow it flashes battery and sometimes pulses on and off at the same time. When I go to switch it off I have to lower the flow until it stops flashing batt to let me turn off.
The leisure battery was a 110 and on a split charge relay. I took it out and bench charged it overnighht problem persisted. So I have bought a brand new one (last one was 2 years old) Its still doing the same thing ! any idea whats wrong ?
thanks
Simon

[Ian Sheppard]

Hi Simon

It sounds as you have two issues
1. Low Batt warning
2. Pump pulsing in/out of DE

The controller you have is about 2 years old. The controller measures voltage at the control. Volt drop along the length of the cable will mean that the voltage shown at the controller will be lower than at the battery for example the battery nay have 11.7V the controller might see 11.4V.

1st check the cables and connectors replace any worn cable or rusted connectors. Also ensure the cable is as short as possible. ( Longer cable means higher volt drop )

Turning the controller up high draws a higher current (amps) from the battery the controller will see this as a sudden spike of power this may momentarily drop the voltage below 11.5 at the controller.
The controller is sensitive to even voltage change even for a fraction of a second and will flash Bat.

2nd the pump pulsing may be associated with the same volt drop issue due to the way the controller senses stopped flow.
I would also suggest you recalibrate the controller using the auto cal function. Have a look at the video link

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9kKoskb7l7c&list=UL

You also mentioned the problem has been happening for a few months. Did you change any fittings, different size hose or replace the pump? at the time the problem started?

Hope this helps, let me know how it goes

Cheers

Ian

[SPE]

Thanks Ian,  I shall look at the wiring first then and see how that goes shall update you here, cheers, Simon

[Ian Sheppard]

Hope this helps you Simon, I am away for a few days from Monday so apologies in advance if I am not able to answer straight away.

Cheers

Ian

[Spruce]

Hi Ian

I would suggest Simon replaces all the wiring from his battery to his controller and back, and at the same time upgrades it to a higher carrying capacity.

I've seen installations where 10 amp wire has been used, maybe alright at low current draw but won't handle the higher loads. I have occassionally seen the odd cable that has had something dropped on it by accident. The internal copper cable can have some strains damaged, so this could also reduce current flow as an electrical resistance builds up at this point. If left long enough, the wire will eventually burn where its been damaged, so in that case you would know exactly where the problem is.

We always solder the wiring to the eye lugs at the battery end using battery terminals (some newer leisure batteries now have a seperate post or stud that we use) and never use crocodile clamps - they are rubbish.

The fuse holder is another spot where contact deterioration can occur and most of us use strip connectors somewhere along the line. Wires need to be clean and the screws tight.

[SPE]

All very good suggestions spruce, thankyou
What  rating of wire would you suggest ?
Simon

[Spruce]

1.0 mm diamt wire is rated at 16 amp
1.5 mm diamt wire is rated at 21 amp
2.0 mm diamt wire is rated at 28 amp
2.5 mm diamt wire is rated at 30 amp


I would go for the 2.5mm diamt every time, but you also need to make sure your fuse holder will accept this diamt wire, including the insulation. I would try to see if I could insert the back of a 3.2mm drill bit into it to see if does if I didn't have wire available.

The cable I have run from the van battery to the split charge relay is 2.5mm with a 15 amp protection fuse. The cable that I have run from the leisure battery to the controllers is also 2.5mm and my replacement fuse holders take that daimt with no problem. I have also used strip connectors to couple the controllers to the main wiring run.

My SCR is also 30 amp.

[Ian Sheppard]

Thank you spruce some good advise here. The cable we supply with the controller is rated to 18 amp. going up to a 30amp cable would not be an issue.

Cheers

Ian

[♠Winp®oClean♠]

Hi Ian

I would suggest Simon replaces all the wiring from his battery to his controller and back, and at the same time upgrades it to a higher carrying capacity.

I've seen installations where 10 amp wire has been used, maybe alright at low current draw but won't handle the higher loads. I have occassionally seen the odd cable that has had something dropped on it by accident. The internal copper cable can have some strains damaged, so this could also reduce current flow as an electrical resistance builds up at this point. If left long enough, the wire will eventually burn where its been damaged, so in that case you would know exactly where the problem is.

We always solder the wiring to the eye lugs at the battery end using battery terminals (some newer leisure batteries now have a seperate post or stud that we use) and never use crocodile clamps - they are rubbish.

The fuse holder is another spot where contact deterioration can occur and most of us use strip connectors somewhere along the line. Wires need to be clean and the screws tight.

Bang on the money (again) Spruce!

What he said.

[SPE]

Thankyou to both Ian and to Spruce, my controller now behaving itself and working as it should. I hav'nt upgraded to thicker wire as yet because I wanted to see how much difference shortening the distance from battery/pump/controller could make, the cable routing is now atleast 60% shorter than before and so problem seems to be solved.

Now damn you snow MELT ! 

Simon