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Steve CM

just got my 3rd van a few weeks ago and needed a simple system in it. Was pricing up that it will cost me around 400 quid for what i need.

I then spend a few hours in my garage with a lot of what i thought were broken parts and built a small system.

650 litre tank spare (not ideal as i i only want a 400 maximum but works ok for the time being only half filled)

hose reel. Had 3 old broken reels and a load of parts that i have collected. Built 1 full reel that works fine.

Pump and controller. had a spare new controller. 3 broken pumps. took them apart and built 1 pump that works fine!

wiring. was looking at it thinking it was gonna take ages to run a feed from the battery. then realized one of the interior lights is 10 cm's away from the pump. couple of connectors and bobs your uncle its running of the van battery.

So the moral of the story is for about 5 hours work and a bit of inniative i have a working system and have saved myself a few quid.

Can't be bad

 ;D

sam125

  • Posts: 32
exactly what i have done and mounted it all on an ibc ready to slide into my pickup or a rental van for when one off the vans is off the road. The hose reels and pole holders are all attached so it is a simple case of lifitg it up filling it with water then strap it down. Will save a lot of hassle when a van breaks down it is also a 2 man system plus if we get busy i can put it in my pickup can even strap a ladder ontop of the ibc

Spruce

  • Posts: 8465
Steve
my advise to you is to remove that power supply cable you have linked up to the pump from the interior light. If the pump is drawing more current than the cable can handle then there is every likelyhood the it will overheat and damage the vehicles wiring harness. That will cost big bucks to repair/replace. A pump will draw minimum current until its put under load and this is when the problems will occur.
Spruce
Success is 1% inspiration, 98% perspiration and 2% attention to detail!

The older I get, the better I was ;)

Steve CM

why you ruin my day spruce  ;D

how can i check the wire for voltage?

dave.e

why you ruin my day spruce  ;D

how can i check the wire for voltage?



steve i ran a 27.5 amp wire from the van battery with a inline fuse i would not advise any one using any wire less than that to be on the safe side.
dave

Steve CM

Dave I have all the correct wiring with fuse etc but must say getting a draw from the light was much easier  ;D

how can i check for voltage through the wire?

dave.e

Dave I have all the correct wiring with fuse etc but must say getting a draw from the light was much easier  ;D

how can i check for voltage through the wire?



steve its not the volts that you have to worrie about its the amp draw on the wire. if the wire is to thin it will melt so i would go for the 27amp because i was told that if you run anything of the van battery like a pump or a split charger to use that amp rated wire and you will be fine. hope that helps if you need any more info give me a shout and i will give you my mobile number and i will help in any way i can
dave

dave.e

steve if you have a volt meter then have a look at this site you mite be able to work it out

http://www.simetric.co.uk/si_watts.htm

Steve CM

cheers dave i'll check it out

Spruce

  • Posts: 8465
why you ruin my day spruce  ;D

how can i check the wire for voltage?

Sorry.
If you have a Shurflo 100 psi pump, it will draw about 8 amps under load, ie., when its pumping. At 12volts that is virtually (slightly less) than your 2 front head light bulbs on full beam. (8 x 12 = 96 watts).
The courtesy light in your vehicle will only draw 8 watts at the most, usually less. So if you look at the wires going to your headlamps you will see that they are much thicker than the wires going to your courtesy light. Remember that the wire is thick enough to carry the current for that head light only ie., 55 watts.

The feed wire to your cigarette lighter is usually protected by a 10 amp fuse, and that is quite thick.

On the other end on the scale, the wire going to your starter motor from the battery is very thick, as it has to carry a large amperage to start the engine. If you measured the voltage at the end of each of these cables they would all read 12 volt.
The same principal applies in your house.
The cable the supplies the lights is thinner than the cables that supply your power sockets on the wall. The cable that supplies the electric cooker is much thicker again as it has to carry a higher amperage (the volts will always be the same ie., 230v.)

In each of our vans we have used 2.5mm 3 core cable (rated at 18.5amps at 230v) that you would used on an electric iron, electric heater etc. and these have been fine. Each cable is protected by a 10 amp inline fuse close to the leisure battery to protect the cable. 1 wire supplies the power to 1 pump. This maybe overkill, but it hasn't let us down yet. The cable from the van battery to the leisure battery via a split charge relay is also the same cable.

Spruce.
Success is 1% inspiration, 98% perspiration and 2% attention to detail!

The older I get, the better I was ;)

Steve CM

Cheers for the in depth explanation. Looks like I'll be re wiring straight from the battery then  :(

LWC

  • Posts: 6824
I wired up a system to my old vivaro and it kept turning off after about 10 minutes as the interior light does so it doesnt flatten the battery. Thought i was being clever till next day when i had to keep going back lol

Spruce

  • Posts: 8465
Cheers for the in depth explanation. Looks like I'll be re wiring straight from the battery then  :(

Best and safest way.

Spruce
Success is 1% inspiration, 98% perspiration and 2% attention to detail!

The older I get, the better I was ;)