[jaykie]

Ive got a purefreedom system 650l with ro and ive added a softner to it, My tds has just gone upto 001 after resin so going to change all, do i add salt, run water through softner till salt has disolved then open up the ro and run through both filters and ro (if so for how long). once done do I disconnect the hose thats connected to resin and run through and wait till tds is down to a low reading then add hoselock to resin (my system is resin before tank so sits in tank at ooo). How do i change the resin is it a case of emtying cannister washing out and filling. Can someone give me a run through as how to do it.

Chris

[Slash]

Just run the salt through the softening resin until the tds is the same coming out then it is going in,let it run through it at a slow pase.

[landy2]

could any one please tell me best and cheapest place to buy 20 inch pollon and carbon filters

[Slash]

I got mine from Pure Freedom on Ebay.

[Andrew McCann]

Hi Chris.

You should be regenerating your softening resin every fill.

If you are changeing the prefilters and resin at the same time firstly change the prefilters then diconnect the IN from the RO to the resin chamber. Open the flush valve fully and then run water through with all of it going to waste. This is to get rid of fine particles that will come from the new carbon filter. While you are doing this take the resin chamber out and unscrew the lid. Be carefull when you pull the lid off because you will see a long tube attached to it. This is the riser tube. Gently wiggle and pull it untill it is all out. Dump the old resin out. There will still be some left in where it is sticking to the sides and bottom. half fill the chamber with tap water and swill it round a bit and empty it. That should get rid of all the old resin. Fill the chamber up to about 2 to 3 inches from the top and then put the lid and riser back. This can be a bit tricky. Dont put too much pressure on. Just push and wiggle until you can screw it right down. Be carefull not to leave any resin beads on the top lip when you fill it because this will stop you getting a really water tight seal.

Stop the water through the RO.. pop it all back together. Reset the waste valve to production position  and job done 

Andrew

[Ian Lancaster]

I don't know about Andrew's systems, but I have an RO-man 40 inch.  My supply water is about 280-320 ppm and the product after RO is 6ppm.  We use this water direct (it goes through a DI cylinder but still comes out at 6ppm as the flow is so quick)

We have no spotting problems at all.

When and if the ppm rises above 8-10ppm, I'll consider installing DI cylinders in the vans to polish the water before it reaches the glass, until then, "if it's not broke, don't fix it"

[landy2]

cheers slash