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kinder clean

  • Posts: 603
What carpet backings are safe to clean - which are not?
« on: June 22, 2008, 09:00:00 am »

As a newbie, I have a few questions that I'm sure all the newbies worry about.

I spent some time looking around a carpet warehouse the other day and there seemed a lot of different types of carpet backings.

feltback
foamback
weft and warp in some kind of white resin
plain weft and warp
etc etc...

Some had weft and warp fibres covered in what looks like a white resin substance and others which were just plain weft and warp.
I seem to remember being told that if the carpet fibre is directly sewn into the backing (like Belgian wilton) that this is the type to be cautious about,  but how can you tell? does anyone have some photos of the different types of backings and some notes explaining how to ID them.

I know its the jute that causes shrinkage by swelling of the weft and warp but there seems a multitiude of different backings that all look like jute to me.

Is it just Belgian wiltons that are dangerous?

I really worry about this, thinking I will end up shrinking and owning half the carpets in Derbyshire  ;D I can see the headlines in the local paper - 'Lone carpet cleaner causes downfall of leading insurance company.
If anyone has some photos of carpet backing with notes, or knows of a website where I can see the different types I would sleep a lot better.

Cheers

Paul



markpowell

  • Posts: 2279
Re: What carpet backings are safe to clean - which are not?
« Reply #2 on: June 22, 2008, 01:09:08 pm »
Paul,
I would suggest steer clear of Sissal and Seagrass, Just get stuck in do the basic colour bleed test, burn tests and float tests, on any woven carpet check the fixings and you should be fine. The problems start when you get complaicant and fail to do the basic checks. Which training course have you done mate?
Mark

kinder clean

  • Posts: 603
Re: What carpet backings are safe to clean - which are not?
« Reply #3 on: June 22, 2008, 03:36:07 pm »

Thanks for that Dave

Hi Mark I did my training with Derek Bolton through cleansmart and thanks for the advice.

Thanks

Paul

clinton

Re: What carpet backings are safe to clean - which are not?
« Reply #4 on: June 22, 2008, 04:13:01 pm »
Paul dont forget you will pick up most of your knowledge as you go along down the years and each job you do.

R-CLEAN

  • Posts: 131
Re: What carpet backings are safe to clean - which are not?
« Reply #5 on: June 22, 2008, 09:03:18 pm »
Paul, Just get stuck in do the basic colour bleed test, burn tests and float tests,
Mark
what is the burn test?

cheers :)

davep

  • Posts: 2589
Re: What carpet backings are safe to clean - which are not?
« Reply #6 on: June 22, 2008, 09:37:59 pm »
Burn Tests:

   Use a butane lighter to melt or ignite an unknown fiber to determine its type. Never use a match. The purpose of using a butane lighter is to avoid masking the odor of the burning fiber since the butane flame is odorless.

    * Acrylic:
      Melts and shrinks from an approaching flame and ignites quickly. In the flame, burns rapidly with bright, sputtering flame with a lot of smoke. When withdrawn from the flame, it continues to burn, melts, and drips. It has an acrid odor and results in a hard, irregular black bead.
    * Cellulose:
      Cellulosic fibers, such as cotton, burns and the ash crumbles – as do protein fibers such as wool and silk.
    * Corterra:
      Similar to polyester.
    * Cotton/Linen:
      Cellulosic fibers such as cotton and linen ignite readily with an approaching flame and scorches. Once in the flame, it burns rapidly with yellow flame. When pulled out of the flame, it continues to burn rapidly with a red afterglow upon extinguishing. Smells like burning paper. Its burned residue is a gray to charcoal colored light feathery ash, which easily crumbles.
    * Nylon:
      Melts and shrinks from an approaching flame. In the flame, melts and burns slowly and is smoky. Once out of the flame, burns slowly and tends to self-extinguish. Burning nylon smells like celery. Its burned residue is a hard, shiny brown or gray bead.
    * Polyester:
      Melts and shrinks from an approaching flame. In the flame, melts and burns slowly. When withdrawn from the flame, it burns slowly, melts and drips. Has a slightly sweet smell. It produces a hard, shiny black or brown bead.
    * Polypropylene (Olefin):
      Melts and shrinks from an approaching flame. In the flame, it melts and burns. When withdrawn from the flame, it continues to burn. It has a candle wax odor and produces a tough, tan bead.
    * Protein:
      Protein fibers, such as wool, burns and the ash crumbles – as do cellulosic fibers such as cotton.
    * Rayon:
      Scorches and ignites readily with an approaching flame. In the flame, burns rapidly with a blue flame. When withdrawn from the flame, continues to burn rapidly with a red afterglow when the flame is extinguished. Smells like burning paper, leaves a gray to charcoal color light feathery ash.
    * Silk:
      Curls away from an approaching flame. In the flame, it burns slowly and sputters. Weighted silk glows red. Out of the flame, it is self-extinguishing or may burn very slowly and smells like singed hair. Its residue is round, shiny black beads, easily crushed. Weighted silk has the skeleton of the original fiber.
    * Wool:
      Chars and curls away from an approaching flame. In the flame, it burns slowly and unevenly. Once pulled out of the flame it is self-extinguishing. It smells like burning hair. It has a brittle, irregular black ash. As with cotton and linen, protein fibers’ ashes readily crumble.