[Smudger]

ok - just so I understand the tubeless system - there is a connector inside the pole end and you then connect your pole hose to this which travels up the pole when you extend it - correct?

Darran

[DeLuce]

Yeah, that's right Darren.
The top section pole has a stop washer bung which attaches to the base of the top section. This should remain stuck in position. The hose that runs through this top section goes off to the gooseneck,and at the base  with the bung, this is where the rectus male fitting is attached. The 'o' clip is what holds it in position against the bung.
I hope that makes sense, I'm not good at explaining things like this.
I should get some pictures up.

[DeLuce]

Btw, if you run hot systems, I've found the plastic on the Slick-Connect deteriorates quite quickly and snaps off, and also, if you use rollers on your reel, the connector might not slide through them. It's quite bulky. I went through two very quickly.
I now use rectus male -female fitting, tape it up with gaffer tape so it doesn't catching the floor or disconnect when reeling in. It then fits through my rollers too.

[Smudger]

ok - thx

so I would now have mini bore going up inside the pole - I don’t like the thought of that 

the other problem I see (looking a squeaky Dave video) is how would I change the gooseneck as the stop bung wouldn't allow the gooseneck to pull out
(Edited - missed out don’t)
Darran

[nathankaye]

Not a great vid but heres mine to help explain it.
However ive simply used push fit fittings rather than the exceed option which locks together.
https://youtu.be/XXf_uaRK6o4

[nathankaye]

ok - thx

so I would now have mini bore going up inside the pole - I like the thought of that 

the other problem I see (looking a squeaky Dave video) is how would I change the gooseneck as the stop bung wouldn't allow the gooseneck to pull out

Darran

Perhaps use a john guest type fitting and use a collar to stop accidental pull outs, at the end of the goose neck. So when your changing heads, just switch over. However that sounds faffy.  There might be an easier way

[andyM]

so I would now have mini bore going up inside the pole - I like the thought of that 

Darran

No you use a long length of pole hose.
On my 25ft slx I believe my pole hose is around 40-50ft long.

[Smudger]

so I would now have mini bore going up inside the pole - I like the thought of that 

Darran

No you use a long length of pole hose.
On my 25ft slx I believe my pole hose is around 40-50ft long.

There lies the issue - I would now have another join in the system - another weak point and another snagging point but at a much further distance away from where I’m working - shame really because the idea looks good
Darran

[Slacky]

Wouldn't want to be joining hose together numerous times a day with those JG fittings. What a ball-ache.

[nathankaye]

Wouldn't want to be joining hose together numerous times a day with those JG fittings. What a ball-ache.

Depends how many times you need to take the hose off.   
For me i dont bother if im just driving in between jobs (as in not long distances). So for me its as and when i need tonswitch poles or at the end of a day.

[dazmond]

Wouldn't want to be joining hose together numerous times a day with those JG fittings. What a ball-ache.

Depends how many times you need to take the hose off.   
For me i dont bother if im just driving in between jobs (as in not long distances). So for me its as and when i need tonswitch poles or at the end of a day.

you need to connect to return valves in between jobs when you use a diesel heater....so i dont think they would be suitable for matt(or me).....

[andyM]

No you use a long length of pole hose.
On my 25ft slx I believe my pole hose is around 40-50ft long.

There lies the issue - I would now have another join in the system - another weak point and another snagging point but at a much further distance away from where I’m working - shame really because the idea looks good
Darran
[/quote]


Im not trying to sell you the idea, it matters not to me.   
But the pole hose to microbore join only consists of a internal hose joiner piece and a couple of double eared O rings so doesn't cause a snagging issue often at all really.
And I don't notice a restriction in the flow by having another join, it is negligible.

[Smudger]

No you use a long length of pole hose.
On my 25ft slx I believe my pole hose is around 40-50ft long.

There lies the issue - I would now have another join in the system - another weak point and another snagging point but at a much further distance away from where I’m working - shame really because the idea looks good
Darran

Im not trying to sell you the idea, it matters not to me.   
But the pole hose to microbore join only consists of an double eared O ring so doesn't cause a snagging issue often at all really.
And I don't notice a restriction in the flow by having another join, it is negligible.
[/quote]

as said I like the idea - but its yet another join - bigger issue would be the quick removal of a goose neck change over - maybe I will get one and see what options I could come up with

main interest is the poles will be tidy on return to unit - when you have 8 of them it seems that the excess hose just gets in the way so even on racking the poles are untidy

I am considering a different unit and neater poles that can be stacked well would be nice - but not at the expense of operation ease

Darran

[Michael Peterson]

I hated the poleless system , tried for months but the join snagged on everything

[P @ F]

I have never tried pole less , it must be hard to get the upper windows 😆😆😆

[adman]

I've managed to fit the tubeless ejector sleeve directly to my 6mm microbore so no joins.   It's ace - working well with univalve too.

I can't change goosenecks easily mind, would need to remove the hose stay which is really tight and quite fragile .  Saying that, all the goosenecks in my Gardiner poles are jammed in the pole anyway.