[NWH]

They are a lot lot easier to maintain yourself when you’ve taken bits in and out and seen what’s going on in there,I wouldn’t waste any money having a service if the burner is coked it’s cheaper to just take it out and replace it yourself. They are like all Waterfed pole setups they are self serviceable tbh I was quoted 1200 quid for a computer plug in to tell me what was wrong and new ECU lol

[davids3511]

They are a lot lot easier to maintain yourself when you’ve taken bits in and out and seen what’s going on in there,I wouldn’t waste any money having a service if the burner is coked it’s cheaper to just take it out and replace it yourself. They are like all Waterfed pole setups they are self serviceable tbh I was quoted 1200 quid for a computer plug in to tell me what was wrong and new ECU lol

Thats the thing with these heaters though, anything you need to replace is hundreds of pounds. What model is yours?

[NWH]

Thermo top C

[Spruce]

Thermo top C

Here's a servicing guide I copied a number of years ago off the internet.

[NWH]

Thanks I don’t need it now I stripped everything down and took pics as I went.

[NWH]

The most awkward thing to change is the burner on them everything else isa lot more straight forward.

[davids3511]

Thermo top C

Did you have to do any programming on it to set it up?

[NWH]

There’s 4 male pins which the leads plug into from the power lead that go into the controller or flow controller you just take pictures and make sure you plug them back in the same places,there’s 1 which has a lead that is attached to the new burner so there’s 3 and 1 from that. It’s easy enough to do the hardest part is getting out the old burner.

[NWH]

I just swapped them over and turned it on and away it went I think you can change the wiring so it will be permanently in winter-summer mode but I just plugged all back in as it was before,I made sure I got the low voltage setup though this time but it is still a 300 series as is the normal thermo top C but the other one puts far more drain through the battery’s.

[NWH]

I changed the whole thing by that I mean the unit which houses the ECU etc the main gubbins that control it,I looked at it inside and that wasn’t as coked as I thought it would be but it was still slightly black and tarred,anyone servicing it will say you just need to change the burner but mine was 10 years old and just black not blocked or coked up. The part the burner heats is under the control unit that’s what gets blocked up with rubbish,when you’ve done a job if you have no return valve to tank re circulate water into your tank on 10 on the flow controller it keeps the temp a lot higher before you plug back into your pole to start work,it’ll be at 60-70 degrees and climb down to 45-50 by then most houses are cleaned and then do the same again this keeps water in the heater hotter than it would do if it powered down again.

[p1w1]

how are these fitted to the van..did you do it yourself or bought from a wfp company ? And what do you need to consider, like  where to run exhaust fitting it to the vans fuel line etc?

[NWH]

If you fit it without a cabinet you need two 1”1/2 holes through the floor for the exhaust take you about 10 minutes to do,I’m talking about upgrading from existing cabinet which houses the header tank with water and plate exchanger,it’s easier for me as I’ve already got the cabinet I just swapped everything for new.

[NWH]

If you are good at DIY you could buy the whole kit for around 1200 if you look at what company’s are charging the cabinet comes in at around 2500 lol p take.

[p1w1]

Yeah ive just been looking at them  I'm pretty good at diy but not 100% confident of fitting one of these.