Hi All,
Can anybody suggest any help advice on a issue i'm having with my pump/controller for above.............the controller is flashing PS which is pressure switch for my first pump.....................and so im not getting any water out.......ive
turned water pressure down
ive turned CAL up and down !!!!!!!!!!!
ive took the pressure switch off
ive checked all wiring and its fine
and still PS is flashing on controller..........................im lost !!!!!!!!!!!!
The controller is responding to some thing in the system, The controller can work with the pump pressure switch disconnected but we recommend it is left in line to provide a final fail safe against high pressure.
Have you changed any jets, hose Ect recently?
What is the Battery AH rating?
What is battery voltage showing with the battery under load and Not under load?
Is the issue at a particular point in the working day?
Are you running two pumps from one battery?
I have added some general advice below some of which you will have already covered. It may be that the sudden reduction in temperature means your hoses are not expanding as fast as they usually do. This restricts flow and creates higher back pressure. This is turn means the system pressure is higher making the pump pressure switch more likely to activate.
PS is Displayed ( RED LED on Analogue Controller)
If PS is displayed, this means that the pump's pressure switch has been operated due to a high build up of pressure in your system. The controller is set to work with a 5.2 litre per minute pump up to 100psi, although it will work at higher ranges. It is worth pointing out that the control does not activate the pump pressure switch. The control is simply telling you the PS has opened. This will happen in one of two case,s
A. High pressure build up in your system. The control does not create or have impact on system pressure, once calibrated it can monitor pressure.
B. The Pump has become disconnected. Please see our wiring diagram in the user guide for correct connections. The Control does check for electrical current to a pump, If the pump can not detect a pump in circuit the default message is PS. (see note 6)
Common causes for the pressure switch operating are:
1. A restriction to the water flow, i.e. from a twisted hose.
2. Blocked or small water jets. (We recommended that the jets are no smaller than 2mm).
3. Grit or dirt trapped in the system. For example a blocked pump pre filter
4. Air trapped in the system.
5. Prolonged shut off of the water flow.
6. Check the wiring connections between the pump and controller. If there is a break or damaged connection the control can not see the pump. Replace corroded or damaged connectors including the fuse and holder.
7. In some case finding the restriction that has caused high pressure is a process of elimination. Start by removing the brush and jets does this clear the restriction? No then remove the pole hose and so on until you are back to the delivery pump outlet. Bear in mind some hose reels have a non return valve in some cases these can Jam causing high back pressure.
Check that Connectors are the same ID and are not blocked or have stuck no return valves
8. Ensure the tank breather hole is not blocked.
Blocking the tank breather hole can result in high pressure build up. As the tank empties the Pump will also draw air from the tank which is now effectively air tight. As air is drawn through the pump a Vacuum is created in your tank this will cause the tank contract ( Like a kids drink carton ) and high pressure in yours system.
Note: as B above:
Note: The controller carries out an electrical test to ensure the pump and pressure switch are in the circuit. If the pump can not detect the pump due to damaged cable/connectors the control will display PS (pressure switch) as a default message. This is one of the crucial protections we put in place. The control no longer passes any current to the pump but instead retests the condition every few seconds.
This prevents a dangerous condition occurring for example ( a loose moving or damaged connection touching ground (Van panels) because the controller is now limiting the energy.
Connectors and terminal blocks can also be a source of volt drop for this reason regularly inspecting your connectors replacing any that are worn or damaged is a good idea.
Also check connections are secure with good contact to the copper core.
Check for any damaged cable where insulation has been chaffed exposing the copper core not only is there a risk of a short knocking out the fuse the exposed core can be a source of volt drop and become very hot in some circumstance,s this heat can be sufficient to melt insulation and fuse increasing the risk of fire.
An Issue with old connectors is corrosion something that is difficult to avoid in a wet environment such as WFP so keeping connections as dry as possible by placing cable into conduit is a good idea. Corrosion will increase the resistance of the connector and in turn volt drop across the connector.
A badly worn or corroded connector can become an energy wasting resistor. If your connectors are excessively hot they either need replacing or tightening, as your are wasting precious battery power.
The harder the pump works, the more current will be drawn. With poor connections in a system this will increase the energy lost in heat. Because Power = I*I*R (current squared multiplied by the connector's resistance). So the power lost in a bad connector is actually increasing exponentially. Compared to the energy consumed by the pump this is small. But every little helps!
A good connector should only feel warm to the touch in normal use.