[Dave Willis]

Spring Analogue controller. First job of the day and the pressure sensing light is on (blue) as normal so I guess everything is up to pressure. Open the pole valve and ...... nothing. Leave the valve open walk back to the van and the pressure light is on still  
Remove the pump to reel pipe ..... nothing  
Put the pipework back together and whack the pressure dial round as far as it goes - pump starts up and everything ok for the rest of the day. Turned the dial back down to its normal position.

Ordered a spare controller for back up (are you sure they are worth £95?)

Just possible the pump had jammed I suppose?

[bobplum]

probably too much sun yesterday

[Spruce]

Hozelok stop connectors have caused all sorts of mayhem in my life. They seem to work for a while and then they don't - nothing has changed.

[Dave Willis]

I haven't got any these days. I hate intermittent type problems. I prefer a full on disaster - easier to diagnose.

[Ian Sheppard]

Spring Analogue controller. First job of the day and the pressure sensing light is on (blue) as normal so I guess everything is up to pressure. Open the pole valve and ...... nothing. Leave the valve open walk back to the van and the pressure light is on still  
Remove the pump to reel pipe ..... nothing  
Put the pipework back together and whack the pressure dial round as far as it goes - pump starts up and everything ok for the rest of the day. Turned the dial back down to its normal position.

Ordered a spare controller for back up (are you sure they are worth £95?)

Just possible the pump had jammed I suppose?

Hi Dave from your description the calibration on the control was to low as such the control was Dead ending the pump. The Blue light is DE

Please see the link to a video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U_6dPgfBjSI

Just like the digital control the  unit must be calibrated to the system and will operate with pretty much any 12V pump.

A false DE can be caused by a
1. blockage or air in the system
2. Jets that are to small (we suggest 2mm or larger)
3. Multiple angle adapters as these restrict flow
4 Pin hole leaks or damaged connectors
5. Blocked pump pre filter

It does sound as if the control is doing what it should as once the calibration was turned up the pump operated as expected

[Dave Willis]

Yes, but the only way it would start the pump was by turning it up to the maximum pressure setting which seemed odd and wouldn't start the pump with no back pressure at all - I took the pipe off the pump.
How can it detect DE when there isn't one?

[Ian Sheppard]

Each system is different and the base working pressure is different, The control is designed to work with as wide a range of pumps and systems as possible. With your set up Calibration may need to be set to close to maximum.

If there is no flow the the control will display DE. Dead end is not a detection of back pressure from a pump. Just the way the control communicates that flow has stopped. so if no flow the default is for the control to show DE

Calibration does not effect the system pressure but allows the control to monitor it.
Pressure in the system primarily is created by the pump. Also the diameter of the hose,run off the reel, Jet size, hose expansion rate will effect calibration as will ambient temperature.

Hope this helps
































 

[Dave Willis]

Not much  

I've had it since they first came out and know how to use it. It's been perfect up 'till now. Sometimes it needs a tweak of the pressure button first thing in the morning just to stop the pump cycling then once the heater kicks in the pressure needs shutting down a bit otherwise the red light comes on (pump pressure switch) and the hoses swell a tad.

Never had it refuse to start before so I can't tell for sure if it's a pump or controller fault.
As I said it started with the pressure dial hard against the stop - something I've never had to do previously.

I have a spare pump at home and have ordered a new controller just in case it does it again.

Remember it wouldn't start up with no hose on the pump outlet.

[Ian Sheppard]

Hmm ok

Could be pump or control but unlikely. Have you changed anything on the system recently?
Also how old is the pump and what size hose and jets are you using?
Has the system blown fuses lately?

[Dave Willis]

Nope, not changed a thing. Everything fine for months, running ok the day before. First job this morning and it won't go.

Obviously got power, tried wiggling all connections and nothing seemed to work. Scratched my head for fifteen minutes and got it going. Just wondered if something inside the controller could break down.

It's got to be at least a year old possibly two. Very happy with the controller it's been brilliant. Using thermobore from Gardiners 100m and two mm jets. Can't be anything to do with hosereel or jets 'cos nothing worked from the pump outlet.

Pump is maybe three years old.

[Ian Sheppard]

Hi Dave
Do you know the battery voltage. It seems odd that the control would suddenly not be able to calibrate. However if nothing else has changed it could be the pump or control or battery. May be worth swapping the pumps and see if that makes a difference.

[Dave Willis]

I run off the van battery - Toyota Hiace have two. In theory they should both be completely knackered because they are eight years old. I've been running the pump from the same battery daily for at least two years now and all my work is within two miles  .

Japanese must make some darn good batteries.

If it goes under voltage, what does the analogue controller do? 

[Ian Sheppard]

The battery warning light will flash on the control and would shut the pump down. However when the engine runs the voltage will come back up. In some cases due to the battery age it may not hold a charge very well any longer. Try spare pump 1st but battery may also have had it

[Dave Willis]

Cheers