[colin purewater]

Evening people,

Looking at getting a 40 ro

And have come across both types I have low water
Pressure but all so a booster pump, I no the hf5 is more
Expensive but which one are people using?

And we'res a good place to get them from pls?
I do like a good customer service 

Many thanks
Colin

[Ian101]

June from GAPS .... however ive never used them so cant comment (though I just have) but everytime this question comes up they all say June at GAPS ... so there you go ... you need June at GAPS

I have a HF4 with a CBM 250 SS and can get output as low as 003 but normally 006

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cbm250ss-1in-stainless-steel-booster-pum

[colin purewater]

Cheers Ian I take it the CNB 250 ss is the booster pump?
Are they the carbon & sediment filters you have there?

Also u have tryed to find June's number but I can't even
Find the company!
Any one got a link of a number please?

[king marko]

http://gapswater.co.uk/
Numbers at top of page 

[colin purewater]

Thanks for that bud

[johnwillan]

I've used both the HF4 & HF5 with a constant non boosted input of 75psi, the HF4 produced a TDS of 16 climbing to 20 after around a year, the HF5 produces a TDS of 1. Production volume appears to be equal so on that basis I would recommend the HF5.

I would also suggest using June at GAPS, very informative, genuine advice and easy to deal with.

[colin purewater]

I've used both the HF4 & HF5 with a constant non boosted input of 75psi, the HF4 produced a TDS of 16 climbing to 20 after around a year, the HF5 produces a TDS of 1. Production volume appears to be equal so on that basis I would recommend the HF5.

I would also suggest using June at GAPS, very informative, genuine advice and easy to deal with.

Cheers for that John sound info that mate 

[Spruce]

Our water pressure is about 50 psi on the new pressure gauge on my system, although the old r/o pressure gauge said our pressure was 60 psi.

Anyway, 2 of us locally have non pumped 4040 systems. My friend has an HF4 membrane and I went for an HF5. At our local water pressure, which I presume is likely to be the same for both of us, there doesn't appear much of a difference in production times between his and mine.

Pure Freedom supplied his unit and Andrew from Pure Freedom did say that at our pressure there would hardly be any performance difference.

I don't know my friends r/o output figures, but mine is 2ppm from an input of 113ppm. Waste water to pure ratio slightly higher than 50/50 for best output (55 waste to 45 pure). Produces 2 litres per minute pure and about 2.5 litres waste per minute.

Daqua.co.uk have a good price on HF5 membranes at the moment. I bought mine from GAPS but they cost £10 plus delivery more than Daqua's current price. Just ask Doug what membranes they are as he hasn't named them on his site.

Spruce

  

[colin purewater]

Cheers spruce! I take it you font bother with resin then?


I have low pressure here so think I will go for
The hf5 just struggle to find prices,
Any ideas with the 2 pre filters as well?

Cheers
Colin

[Perfect Windows]

Spoke to June last Friday about this.

Running with a booster pump she reckons better to have the HF4 than the HF5 - should get lower TDS.

Vin

[Spruce]

Hi Colin

I assembled mine from bits from several suppliers. I saved about £150 but I'm not sure if the extra effort was worth the cost saving.

I opted for the 4040 champ housing from Gaps with the HF5 membrane and some 20" sediment filters. Also got champ 4040 securing clamps from them. (Vyair have some cheap 4040 housings - £72.00 each including VAT - but I don't know anything about them).

I bought 2 x 20" clear standard (not jumbo) filter housings from Osmotics (don't forget the brackets as they are sold seperately - also ask them for bolts to secure filter housing to brackets - they recommended TEK STITCHING SCREW - SELF DRILLING - 6.3 X 22mm also purchased from ebay. I removed the washers and don't tighten too tight) as well as a couple of 1/2"NPT joiners, 6 x 1/2"NPT  to 1/2" tube John Guest straight adapters, 6 x 1/2" JG stem elbow and 6 x JG tube to hose stem 1/2" ID Tube to 1/2" stem. You will also need to order a decent carbon block filter - see Osmotics Pentek ChlorPlus Carbon Block Filter 20" - expensive initially.

Off Ebay I bought some 1/2" reinforced hose (a roll of 30 meters was cheaper than a length of 10 meters,) 2 x Brass 3-way, T Piece Connector, 1/2”BSPT Male to 2 x 1/2”BSPP Female, 2 x Bsp Adaptor reducer Male 1/2" to 1/4" Bsp Pneumatic Air, 2 x Pressure Gauge for Air Fuel Oil or Water 60mm 0/150 PSI & 0/10 Kg/cm2 (Bar) 1/4", 1 x 1/2 bsp female threaded brass gate valve, 50 x 18 to 15mm o clips, 2 rolls of PTFE tape and a Mk 1-gang surface pattress white box 47mm to mount frost sat. I had a few Hozelok fitting for waste and pure outlets on the van.

I also purchased a 6.5 litre DI vessel from ebay (DI Resin Vessel 618 For Pole Fed Window Cleaning - Purityfilter at £41.50 + delivery). it came with 1/2" hose fittings - 1 x 90 degree and the other straight. I had some MB115 resin left over from a previous purchase so filled it with that.

I have mounted all this in a purpose made cabinet/box on the garage wall made from chipboard and painted. I have made a small platform for the DI vessel to sit on, but secured it to the backboard with a Expansion Vessel Mounting Bracket from Screwfix.

I'm in the process of making a solid front 'sealed' panel for it. I have purchased and fitted a 40 watt tube heater and frost sat to ensure the unit doesn't freeze in the winter. The cabinet also houses my on/off (normally off) solenoid valve that cuts the water to the r/o when my IBC holding tank is full. 10 amp 3 core cable and cable clips purchased from local electrical shop.

I have recently added an in line TDS meter (HM Digital DM-2: Commercial In-Line Dual TDS Meter from Daqua.co.uk.

In the future I would like to fit an automatic flush valve. I would also consider fitting a 1/2" 3 way ball valve on the pure outlet before the di. The idea of this is to manually divert the pure water directly to the tank on start up as the initial tds is quite high and takes about a minute to settle down.

[colin purewater]

Nice one spruce thanks for taking the time
For that cracking  post mate!
Very imfomative  so thank you
I do like a bit of DIY do I will go down this route

Many thanks again
Colin

[Spruce]

Nice one spruce thanks for taking the time
For that cracking  post mate!
Very imfomative  so thank you
I do like a bit of DIY do I will go down this route

Many thanks again
Colin

Hi Colin

Personally, I would do it again as I had a specific end result to achieve.

I needed to build it in a cabinet that I could automatically heat without me worring about it.
The previous 450GPD R/O was kept warm under a towel with a 100w light bulb burning away. It got us through a few winters but I wasn't happy with the situation at all and always wanted to house it correctly but never got round to it. The plus was that as the r/o produced water so slowly, it was working through most freezing nights, so this afforded some protection. This 4040 produces water so fast that I doubt it will work fully all night.
The previous r/o was small and light, and many a freezing weekend I just unplugged the unit and brought it inside the house.

Maybe this is all overkill on my part, as others don't seem to protect their r/o's like this, but each year we see a few posts of frost damaged units.

My next choice that I had been seriously considering was buying the Pure Freedom unit as it comes as completely setup on it's own frame - just plug in and go. As I mentioned earlier, our water pressure doesn't make much difference whether we use HF4 or HF5 membranes, but as you have a booster pump, not choosing the HF5 from Pure Freedom would reduce the cost of this unit by about £75.00.

What did put me off a bit was that the Pure Freedom units come with standard filter bowls. I like to see what the sediment filter looks like at a glance, hence my choice of clear bowls.