[jason1]

Hi guys

I have been thinking about a trailer system as I use a trolley at the moment but need van for gutter vac and genie I'm thinking of buying a diy system and put it in a brender cup trailer as I see that would be cheapest way I got a few quotes for trailers systems but there from 2500 to 3800 which at the moment is a bit steep for me as haven't. Been at this long or somehow do you think I could use my trolleyand add a tank and reel but truithfully I wouldn't know howw to do this or what parts id need any advice would be very appreciated.

Thanks

[Spruce]

Hi Jason.

If you need a van, buy a van that will do everything. A decent trailer is expensive and you will need one that has an opening top. This is so you can put a heater in it over winter to stop everything freezing up.
So my advise is to put the money you would spend on a trailer into a van.
I started off with one of Peter Fogwill's trailer systems which is open to the elements. Even although the pump box could be disconnected and brought inside the hoses between the tanks forever froze and took ages to get thawed. Added to that was that a trailer full of water is not easy to manouver, especially when trying to turn the thing around at the end of a close on a hill that's full of parked cars.

A van mount is just a bigger version of your trolley.

Its a large plastic tank with a threaded outlet. Screw in a hose adaptor to some 1/2" reinforced plastic hose which is coupled to filter. The filter is coupled to a pump. The outlet of the pump is coupled to your hose reel.
Some suppliers will sell a metal frame to secure your tank to the vans floor.

You need a leisure battery (although some will advise you to use your vans battery - OK I would imagine for those travelling enough miles a day to give the alternator time to recharge the battery. If you don't you will be left with a flat battery and won't be able to start the van.) An 85amp hour should suffice. This you connect up to your pump via an on/off switch. (I believe that you should rather use a pump controller in place of the on/off switch, but not all agree.)

Also consider company's like Pure Freedom sell a complete package which maybe another option. If you go down this route find out what the package consists of. Most also add a cheap fibre glass pole. Others have suggested you get that deleted and put the money toward a good carbon fibre pole. I would also advise that. If you have an R/O with your present system, you may find that it isn't big enough so, if it isn't, I would also go with the supplied R/O which will be mated and plumbed into your new system.

Through experience, buy the best you can, and whilst I don't advise going out and getting into a massive amount of debt to do it, I would rather buy the right tools for the job first time, even if it means taking out a small loan to do it.

Ask Dazmond.

Spruce.

[AuRavelling79]

Good advice Spruce, but Jason already has a van. He can apply your advice to putting the system in a trailer or a van.

So the trailer is a good option for him as an extra. If you have overnight electricity nearby you can insulate/make covers for and keep warm trailers quite easily with rudimentary DiY skills.

Don't take your trailer to the max tho' if you want to carry a 250L tank then get one rated at 400/500kg. If you want a 400L tank then a 650/750kg one. It's a good point about manoeuvreability so unless all of your day is going to be window cleaning then I would go for a 250L tank and 400kg trailer.

If you need more water than that then ... put the gutter vac in the trailer and the tank in the van? Which do you envisage using most?

You can always swap them over in a weekend anyway if you get it wrong.

[SunShineCleaning]

Good advice Spruce, but Jason already has a van. He can apply your advice to putting the system in a trailer or a van.

So the trailer is a good option for him as an extra. If you have overnight electricity nearby you can insulate/make covers for and keep warm trailers quite easily with rudimentary DiY skills.

Don't take your trailer to the max tho' if you want to carry a 250L tank then get one rated at 400/500kg. If you want a 400L tank then a 650/750kg one. It's a good point about manoeuvreability so unless all of your day is going to be window cleaning then I would go for a 250L tank and 400kg trailer.

If you need more water than that then ... put the gutter vac in the trailer and the tank in the van? Which do you envisage using most?

You can always swap them over in a weekend anyway if you get it wrong.

Thats what I would suggest.

[Spruce]

Hi guys
Sorry, I didn't realise Jason already had a van, so I go with your suggestion.

I also see there is a trailer system on ebay under offer - it needs a bit of sprucing up, but should be ok.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150648274760?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Spruce

[bobby p]

i think trailers look cooler than vans, something about them

[Spruce]

i think trailers look cooler than vans, something about them

My wife used to say the same thing with the trailer hooked up to my Suzuki Van. I kept the poles, step ladders and hose reel inside the van and my long ladders on a roof rack.
But the trailer wasn't man enough for carrying the tanks and went through several sets of bearings. Within a couple of years the trailer was rusting and the paint peeling off.
In those days I processed water overnight directly into my trailer, so if I ran out of water that was the end of the day. I used to carry 100 litres in the van mainly as balast to keep the van and trailer combination road legal, which I also used to use to top up the tanks in the afternoon. We didn't have a pump controller and drenched the windows with 3mm jets in our brushes, so water was always an issue.

Although it got me into WFP, in hindsight, I would have been better getting a van mount at the beginning. However, I can also understand how windies feel taking this step in WFP and want to take tentative steps rather than a 'big leap.'  

My advise to anyone thinking of the trailer route would be to have the right size vehicle to pull it, and in the aspect of safety, I would go for a braked trailer. Sooner or later you will get stuck in a cul de sac on a hill and need to uncouple it from the tow vehicle - trust me on that one, I have a couple of those tee shirts. Reversing a small trailer with a car is more difficult than reversing a caravan on the same vehicle - again, trust me on this as well.

Spruce

[jason1]

Thanks for replies guys appreciate advice I think ill put a system in me van now what kind of sytem do you guys recommend one of those purefreedom diy ones or any suggestions there's that many out there and I've only got a little astra van so not sure what to get thanks

[Dave.]

I also started out with a box trailer with 400kg capacity & 250 litre tank - as well as the hills I used to hate uncoupleing and moving it on gravel driveways.

I even towed the trailer behind my discovery -when I was reversing I couldn't see the trailer in my mirrors until it had gone too far.

I now use the same old trailer for pressure washing equipment & my gutter vac.

And my new van - is 100% van mount window cleaning use - no room for anything else

[Spruce]

I also started out with a box trailer with 400kg capacity & 250 litre tank - as well as the hills I used to hate uncoupleing and moving it on gravel driveways.

I even towed the trailer behind my discovery -when I was reversing I couldn't see the trailer in my mirrors until it had gone too far.

I now use the same old trailer for pressure washing equipment & my gutter vac.

And my new van - is 100% van mount window cleaning use - no room for anything else

  . Even although my Suzuki is very narrow, I could just see the wheels in the driver's mirror. The only way I could reverse with it was to get out and lift the tailgate. I mainly made a complete hash of reversing.