Clean It Up
UK Window Cleaning Forum => Window Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: Tom White on January 22, 2015, 06:33:26 pm
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I've just made another DIY controller - a spare - for under £15. These are class, they only require calibration once (the air temperature doesn't affect them), and they don't require a battery in good nick to work either; they'll run on any old 12v battery.
I've included an on/off LED switch - though I think that's superfluous to requirments; it would work without it and be even simpler to produce. An LED on/off switch lets me know if it's on at a glance, and it also means I don't have to turn the dial to turn it on (I'm very lazy).
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1421950765_Tosh4.jpg)
Anyway, these are the parts I purchased:
12v LED rocker switch £2.00
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261513977084?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&var=560391577650&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Waterproof Project Box 115*90*55mm £4.52
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201212241692?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&var=500405437151&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
10A 12V~40V PWM DC Motor Speed Control Switch Controller Volt Regulator £7.00
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10A-12V-40V-PWM-DC-Motor-Speed-Control-Switch-Controller-Volt-Regulator-Dimmer-/121250426718?pt=UK_BOI_Industrial_Automation_Control_ET&hash=item1c3b16af5e
I drilled the holes for the voltage regulator and the switch and a hole at the rear for the wires that go to the pump and the battery:
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1421950849_Tosh1.jpg)
Then I wired it up; soldering the wires on the switch (first time soldering; which why it looks rough):
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1421951024_Tosh3.jpg)
I was unsure how to solder or wire a rocker switch, but it's all on youtube:
How to wire a rocker switch:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQpQWFYX524
How to solder:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLfXXRfRIzY
The wiring on the voltage regulator is easy; on the rear it tells you what's what, with regards motor +- and battery +-.
I quite enjoyed doing it too.
If anyone fancies a bash, don't be shy to ask questions, though it's pretty straightforward.
And if anyone can suggest any improvements, I'm all ears.
Oh, Ionics sell a similar, with VAT and delivery, it's £210.00
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1421951528_Tosh1.jpg)
And it doesn't even have an LED switch on it! :'( :'(
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Looks good mate, good post
When you say only needs calibrating once, how do you calibrate it?
I'm assuming it runs off the pumps pressure switch, so wouldn't need 'calibrating', just a pressure change on the p/s itself?
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WOW - A helpful post lol
Impressed Tosh. The only niggle for me is the soldered wires. I would have used a little bit of heat shrink. Doubtful they will ever touch BUT they said the titanic wouldn't sink and seanK wouldn't post 4000 replies on vision.
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Looks good mate, good post
When you say only needs calibrating once, how do you calibrate it?
I'm assuming it runs off the pumps pressure switch, so wouldn't need 'calibrating', just a pressure change on the p/s itself?
Thanks; yes, you're right - thanks for clarifying my post. Just the pump's pressure switch would need calibrating.
For those who don't know, just connect hose reel to pump, and pole to hose reel and turn it on.
At the bottom of your pump (on a Shurflo anyway) there's a hexagonal 'nut' where the arrow is pointing:
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1421952326_Tosh1.jpg)
Just adjust that so the water flows nicely - your normal working flow - yet when you 'dead end' the flow (whichever method you use to stop the flow), the pump shuts down pretty much straight away.
I've only ever had to do this once, unlike my old electronic flow controllers, which made me do it if the temperature changed.
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I would have used a little bit of heat shrink.
I never knew that existed for wires like this. Would that hold them as secure as solder?
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I would have used a little bit of heat shrink.
I never knew that existed for wires like this. Would that hold them as secure as solder?
No bud acts as an insulator :) Same as tape. Just more professional :)
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I would have used a little bit of heat shrink.
I never knew that existed for wires like this. Would that hold them as secure as solder?
No bud acts as an insulator :) Same as tape. Just more professional :)
I'm a 'bodge it' kinda guy. I'll wrap some tape around it. ;D
Thanks.
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I would have used a little bit of heat shrink.
I never knew that existed for wires like this. Would that hold them as secure as solder?
No bud acts as an insulator :) Same as tape. Just more professional :)
I'm a 'bodge it' kinda guy. I'll wrap some tape around it. ;D
Thanks.
Yeah tape will do, don't want a van fire ;)
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Careful Tosh, I can see a ban coming on!
Last bloke that criticised Ionics never came back!
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Thanks for the info Tosh, great idea. I feel I could give that a go.
I read the other post you had going which discussed the circuit board and what to do. Cheers for that.
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Cheers Tosh,I'm building a trolley for back up and that will sort my controller out.
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WOW - A helpful post lol
Impressed Tosh. The only niggle for me is the soldered wires. I would have used a little bit of heat shrink. Doubtful they will ever touch BUT they said the titanic wouldn't sink and seanK wouldn't post 4000 replies on vision.
I used candle wax. Just light the candle and drip wax onto the bare wire and connectors.
I also waterproofed my trolley pump the same way.
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I like that😄 cheers
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Many thanks. Page added to favorites for future use. Must go and buy some candles now. ;D
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Great info thanks Tosh. The only downside to this setup could be someone running their battery right down and potentially shortening its life. If you charge them daily they should be fine. For an extra pound or two i think it would be enhanced by putting one of these on the box...........
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008KY5ULW
That way you could make an informed choice not to run your battery below say...11 volts ?
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Great info thanks Tosh. The only downside to this setup could be someone running their battery right down and potentially shortening its life. If you charge them daily they should be fine. For an extra pound or two i think it would be enhanced by putting one of these on the box...........
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008KY5ULW
That way you could make an informed choice not to run your battery below say...11 volts ?
Cheers, Clean, I've just ordered one and I'll add it to the controller I've just made. The only downside to it is that it's square shaped - it means cutting the box rather than being able to drill through it.
But cutting through it won't be that difficult.
Thanks, top tip.
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WOW - A helpful post lol
Impressed Tosh. The only niggle for me is the soldered wires. I would have used a little bit of heat shrink. Doubtful they will ever touch BUT they said the titanic wouldn't sink and seanK wouldn't post 4000 replies on vision.
I used candle wax. Just light the candle and drip wax onto the bare wire and connectors.
I also waterproofed my trolley pump the same way.
Never knew that!!
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Excellent post.... Well done 👍👍👍
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Great info thanks Tosh. The only downside to this setup could be someone running their battery right down and potentially shortening its life. If you charge them daily they should be fine. For an extra pound or two i think it would be enhanced by putting one of these on the box...........
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008KY5ULW
That way you could make an informed choice not to run your battery below say...11 volts ?
This one might be easier to fit to the box .
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Voltmeter-Chargers-WaterProof-Motorcycle-Motorbike/dp/B00JY0V3TY/ref=sr_1_8?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1421968864&sr=1-8&keywords=12v+digital+voltmeter#productDetails
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Great info thanks Tosh. The only downside to this setup could be someone running their battery right down and potentially shortening its life. If you charge them daily they should be fine. For an extra pound or two i think it would be enhanced by putting one of these on the box...........
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008KY5ULW
That way you could make an informed choice not to run your battery below say...11 volts ?
This one might be easier to fit to the box .
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Voltmeter-Chargers-WaterProof-Motorcycle-Motorbike/dp/B00JY0V3TY/ref=sr_1_8?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1421968864&sr=1-8&keywords=12v+digital+voltmeter#productDetails
Spot on.
Same thing here at half the cost (postage free):
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Latest-12V-24V-Car-Motorcycle-LED-Digital-Display-Voltmeter-Waterproof-Meter-/391013209795?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&var=&hash=item5b0a3416c3
;D
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I used candle wax. Just light the candle and drip wax onto the bare wire and connectors.
I also waterproofed my trolley pump the same way.
Never knew that!!
You can waterproof any electrical circuit that doesn't get hot. I can use my trolley system in the pouring rain without worrying about water getting into the pump or the box with the voltage regulator in it and have done for a good few years.
The links for the voltage meter - have just ordered. Thanks.
Off topic, but candle wax is a simple water proofing solution for so many things.
Even red matches (swan vesta's). If you go camping or such like, coat the heads in candle wax and they'll still light even if soaking wet or in the rain.
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Tosh, you may remember back that i posted about trying some PWR motor controllers. Ours burnt out the boxes they came with, with hindsight and now looking at the amp rating i realise ours where not up to the job fully. Although they are still fitted and still work !!
Can you confirm you've had no overheating issues ? I've noted your linked ones are rated to 10 amps, not sure what ours where, but judging by the very thin wires we had i'd guess not ten amps !! I'm oredering my stuff now and hope to make two up for a start. Keep you posted, thanks again. I'll add to this thread once i've made them.
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Tosh, you may remember back that i posted about trying some PWR motor controllers. Ours burnt out the boxes they came with, with hindsight and now looking at the amp rating i realise ours where not up to the job fully. Although they are still fitted and still work !!
Can you confirm you've had no overheating issues ? I've noted your linked ones are rated to 10 amps, not sure what ours where, but judging by the very thin wires we had i'd guess not ten amps !! I'm oredering my stuff now and hope to make two up for a start. Keep you posted, thanks again. I'll add to this thread once i've made them.
No overheating issues and we've been using ours for (I don't know exactly) 6 to 8 months.
No issues what-so-ever.
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Off topic, but candle wax is a simple water proofing solution for so many things.
One thing to note is that you should only use candles that are waterproof. If it doesn't say on the packet, ask the vendor if they're the waterproof candle wax ones, or not.
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Tosh, you may remember back that i posted about trying some PWR motor controllers. Ours burnt out the boxes they came with, with hindsight and now looking at the amp rating i realise ours where not up to the job fully. Although they are still fitted and still work !!
Can you confirm you've had no overheating issues ? I've noted your linked ones are rated to 10 amps, not sure what ours where, but judging by the very thin wires we had i'd guess not ten amps !! I'm oredering my stuff now and hope to make two up for a start. Keep you posted, thanks again. I'll add to this thread once i've made them.
To stop heat building up inside the box especially on hot days just add a small fan for a pc. They're 12v DC, draw almost no current and cost £2 or £3 from maplins.
I cut a hole out on one side of the box, screwed the fan on and drilled a few small hole in the other side of the box and wired it in with the switch.
Job took 10 minutes.
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Off topic, but candle wax is a simple water proofing solution for so many things.
One thing to note is that you should only use candles that are waterproof. If it doesn't say on the packet, ask the vendor if they're the waterproof candle wax ones, or not.
The very best candle wax is the the wax from candles meant for under water use. Army surplus stores sell them.
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So, flow controllers at about a tenth of the price.
Anyone want to invent/concoct/manufacture/cobble together an auto charger/split relay thing for charging the system battery from the alternator?
I paid £130 for my flow reg & auto charge. Flow-pukka. Auto-poop.
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So, flow controllers at about a tenth of the price.
Anyone want to invent/concoct/manufacture/cobble together an auto charger/split relay thing for charging the system battery from the alternator?
I paid £130 for my flow reg & auto charge. Flow-pukka. Auto-poop.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151550930756?redirect=mobile
Spruce recommended that to me a while ago, never had a problem with it
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So, flow controllers at about a tenth of the price.
Anyone want to invent/concoct/manufacture/cobble together an auto charger/split relay thing for charging the system battery from the alternator?
I paid £130 for my flow reg & auto charge. Flow-pukka. Auto-poop.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151550930756?redirect=mobile
Spruce recommended that to me a while ago, never had a problem with it
Cheers Don.
Would you mind saying what your mileage & water use is per week?
And do you have to auxiliary charge at all?
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Around 60miles a week (tops)
(Mileage is sort of irrelevant mate, as its more about the time spent with the van on. Although i guess they are usually linked)
400litres a day (ish)
Had to bench charge my bat once in the last year, and that was more as a just in case rather than out of necessity
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Around 60miles a week (tops)
(Mileage is sort of irrelevant mate, as its more about the time spent with the van on. Although i guess they are usually linked)
400litres a day (ish)
Had to bench charge my bat once in the last year, and that was more as a just in case rather than out of necessity
Sounds like a goer!
I use more water but I'm doing 60odd miles a day.
This'll be 3rd time lucky but I'll give it a go.
Thank you.
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Cheers for posting this Tosh, just ordered the bits to try and make one.
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I've gotten around to installing the voltage meter and I tested it out on a battery:
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1423158838_Tosh1.jpg)
Seems to be working great.
I'll stick it in the van at the weekend. I think the voltmeter is surplus to requirements; it's just a gimmick, but I do like the light-up led switch on the top. With my current switches I find myself double checking them to make sure they're switched off, so a light on the switch will be helpful.
Not bad for under £20! As someone who thought of himself as cack-handed when it comes to this stuff, I quite enjoyed doing it too. I surprise myself sometimes.
Any suggestions or improvements would be welcomed.
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I just had another thought; if I installed a voltmeter on the output wires, would that reading vary as I increased or decreased the flow with the dial?
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(I think) you'd get the same reading mate
The controller you've made controls the volts to adjust the flow so (again, i think) the draw from the battery would vary, and so the output would be the same as the input...
So that screen you have put in the controller should show the varying voltage differences without the need for another voltmetre...
(I'm assuming in the pic, your battery is on charge?)
(Spruce or ian sheppard may be able to tell you for definite!)
It looks good mate, you've done a good job
I was going to do one of these myself after your post, but i managed to get a varistream for £25, but definitley one for the future!
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Tosh, a serious question, are you going into production?
Nick
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Tosh, a serious question, are you going into production?
Nick
I reckon it'd be easy to flog these for £50 on ebay, and easy to 'mass produce' too.
But no. However, they're dead easy to make; some poor Chinese child - hand-cuffed to a work bench - did the hard stuff when he/she made the voltage regulator circuit board.
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Tosh, a serious question, are you going into production?
Nick
I reckon it'd be easy to flog these for £50 on ebay, and easy to 'mass produce' too.
But no. However, they're dead easy to make; some poor Chinese child - hand-cuffed to a work bench - did the hard stuff when he/she made the voltage regulator circuit board.
Shame! I don't want to make one, I just want to buy one. :)
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Shame! I don't want to make one, I just want to buy one. :)
Guys are knocking them up and selling them on e-bay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-SafeFlow-Pump-Controller-Water-fed-pole-window-cleaning-wfp-Trolley-/181636013901?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a4a599f4d
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12v-speed-control-wfp-/231469869117?pt=UK_BOI_Industrial_Automation_Control_ET&hash=item35e4ade83d
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I have a controller very similar to this (company who supplied it no longer trading). It is 9 years old and has not given me one day of trouble. I find it bemusing the amount of posts about the more common type of controller with calibration, dead end issues etc, plus they seem to pack up within a few years and need replacing. Over complicated IMO.
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Used mine for the first time today, well impressed with it
didn't go for a volt meter as i wanted to keep it simple like me
Should save me alot of water as i used to control the flow from the tap but ever time i was moving the tap was dragging on the floor and increasing the flow.Just need to find an easier way to turn the water on and on instead of looking round for the tap.
might try cable tying the tap to the bottom of the pole.
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Used mine for the first time today, well impressed with it
didn't go for a volt meter as i wanted to keep it simple like me
Should save me alot of water as i used to control the flow from the tap but ever time i was moving the tap was dragging on the floor and increasing the flow.Just need to find an easier way to turn the water on and on instead of looking round for the tap.
might try cable tying the tap to the bottom of the pole.
Spot on, Rob, glad you like it.
As for a tap, I use my pole hose externally, and I use the kind of pole hose you can easily bend and it turns off the water straight away.
There's loads of advantages to using external pole hose:
1. It's easier to extend or contract the pole (you can rest the butt on your foot too).
2. You don't get dirt inside the pole.
3. You can easily remove the brush head (I sometimes - if there's a lot of ground floor work - swap the brush head onto a short aluminium pole - it's just easier).
4. And the BIGGIE - when you want to stop your flow, you just nip a handy piece of pole hose.
I've tried taps and aquadapters, but I find this the best method.
Job jobbed.
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I bought one fully made on ebay for £40. kicking myself now....!!""!!""
and its didnt work and I now suspect its because I need to calebrate it...
bugger I nearly threw it away cause it would not work.
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and its didnt work and I now suspect its because I need to calebrate it...
You will need to wire up your pump's pressure switch (if it's not already done); it's this that needs calibrating.
If you need more info, give me a shout.
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You no what i've never try'd the hose on the outside and im always standing/tripping over the hose around my feet, i'll give it a whirl on monday.
I tried adjusting my pressure switch but it didn't seem to make much difference so just left if ;D
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Tosh, i'm just about to order a voltmeter for mine. Did you get a two wire one or a three wire one ? Either way could you say how you wired yours up ?
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Tosh, i'm just about to order a voltmeter for mine. Did you get a two wire one or a three wire one ? Either way could you say how you wired yours up ?
It was two wire, and it was dead easy to solder to the switch.
1. The negative to the negative post (which will be the same one the negative from the power supply goes to).
2. The positive to the positive post; the one that takes the power to the circuit board - not the post that the positive power lead goes to.
If you wire the positive to the other post, the one from the battery, your voltage regulator will just stay on, all of the time, even when the controller is switched off.
It's simple; though you may have to just look at it for a while.
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Tosh, i'm just about to order a voltmeter for mine. Did you get a two wire one or a three wire one ? Either way could you say how you wired yours up ?
It was two wire, and it was dead easy to solder to the switch.
1. The negative to the negative post (which will be the same one the negative from the power supply goes to).
2. The positive to the positive post; the one that takes the power to the circuit board - not the post that the positive power lead goes to.
If you wire the positive to the other post, the one from the battery, your voltage regulator will just stay on, all of the time, even when the controller is switched off.
It's simple; though you may have to just look at it for a while.
Ok got that. There's some three wire ones advertised. I'll steer clear and get the two wire. Voltmeter essential for me as i'm lazy and hate charging them untill i have to. So that'll give me the heads up when it needs charging. I carry a spare battery too. Cheers.
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Tosh any chance of a pic off the wiring off the volt meter , and also the red and black wire that goes outside the box are they going to pump or battery
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Tosh any chance of a pic off the wiring off the volt meter , and also the red and black wire that goes outside the box are they going to pump or battery
Will do, mate; tomorrow.
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(I think) you'd get the same reading mate
The controller you've made controls the volts to adjust the flow so (again, i think) the draw from the battery would vary, and so the output would be the same as the input...
So that screen you have put in the controller should show the varying voltage differences without the need for another voltmetre...
(I'm assuming in the pic, your battery is on charge?)
(Spruce or ian sheppard may be able to tell you for definite!)
It looks good mate, you've done a good job
I was going to do one of these myself after your post, but i managed to get a varistream for £25, but definitley one for the future!
Yes you will. You are exactly right Don.
The controller Tosh has put in is a PWM controller (Pulse Width Modulator.)
It will send pulses of your current battery voltage to the motor. (Pulses = on and then off.) The slower you run your motor the longer the off section of the pulse.
Flat out = on -----------------------------------------------------
Not so fast = on --- off --- on --- off --- on.
Slow = on -- off ------------ on -- off ------------ on.
(Hope that makes sense). :D
The guage will be on if you 'splice' or join it between your switch and modulator. It will be off when you switch the pump off as Tosh says.
If you 'splice' it after your modulator the display will flicker when the pump is running, but I wouldn't know if your eye would see it or not as those pulses are very quick.
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Tosh any chance of a pic off the wiring off the volt meter , and also the red and black wire that goes outside the box are they going to pump or battery
Here you go. I think it looks a bit confusing, but it's pretty straightforward. The meter wires are the thinner ones bottom right of the picture as you see it. You see the black one goes to the post on the far right (with the other negatives) and the red one goes to the middle post.
The red wire on the far left is power in post (from the battery) and if you attached it to this one, the meter would be on all the time, even when the pump was switched off.
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1424690470_Tosh1.jpg)
It's a bit of a bodge job, 'cos that's the kind of person I am, I'm afraid. :'(
I can think of a few improvements for my next one though.
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Oh, it's installed and works just like it should; no problems at all.
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Cheers for that tosh think ive got it now :)
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I was waiting on the voltmeters for mine. They came this morning. Just knocked one up.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v444/mike28/IMG_20150311_121746.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mike28/media/IMG_20150311_121746.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v444/mike28/IMG_20150311_182400.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mike28/media/IMG_20150311_182400.jpg.html)
I'll wire them up later and test them at the weekend. Well, i'll be making them up as complete spare pump boards.
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Hey, that looks nearly as good as the one I made! ;D
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Hey, that looks nearly as good as the one I made! ;D
;D
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Is it just a flow regulator or a split charger too?
What did it cost you to make one?
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Is it just a flow regulator or a split charger too?
What did it cost you to make one?
Mine cost me £37 for two. The volt meters where almost £4 each. Whats that, £18.50 for each controller? I never fitted a split charger, although i did look at the ones someone linked to back in this thread, they look good.
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Nice work
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Nice work
It's dead easy, Poleking; you just make sure you get circular switches and voltmeters; then it's just a case of drilling (not cutting) the holes where you want your items to go.
These - seriously - do not give the same problems that off the shelf flow controllers do. There's no re-calibration needed, just because it's warmed up a bit (or gotten colder) and it's quite happy to run on a sub-standard battery without cutting out.
My original one must be about a year old now; not one single problem; it just does what I want it to do - control the flow.
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Ive just got my flow controller back from my mate who's repaired it.
Gratis.
Its about 3 years old now and I've not a problem other than this.
I'll see how it goes and if it packs up, I'll do what you & CC have done.
Still unsure on the split charger.
I'd like to use the one I've bought. I'll try it at the weekend and see how we go.
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Here you go. I think it looks a bit confusing, but it's pretty straightforward. The meter wires are the thinner ones bottom right of the picture as you see it. You see the black one goes to the post on the far right (with the other negatives) and the red one goes to the middle post.
The red wire on the far left is power in post (from the battery) and if you attached it to this one, the meter would be on all the time, even when the pump was switched off.
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1424690470_Tosh1.jpg)
It's a bit of a bodge job, 'cos that's the kind of person I am, I'm afraid. :'(
I can think of a few improvements for my next one though.
I wired one up, and done same as your diagram. I found it a bit of a pain putting two then three wires together on the switch terminal. Then it dawned on me, after the event (normal for me !! :-) ), the voltmeter wires can just go to the terminals on the switchboard itself (the two right hand ones), it'll be much easier this way.
Also the controller in my van today was flashing up "batt", still working ok, but still flashing up. It also showed a voltage of 12.4v. I brought the battery in to test this new controller out and the voltmeter on the controller i just made showed 12.7v . I tested the accuracy of this with a multimeter, and the multimeter showed 12.7V. I realise my van controller may need rewiring with good contacts, so the point i'm making is just them small voltmeters are accurate.
I'm very happy with the result, and just about to order a few more bits to make some more up , cheers Tosh !! :-)
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No problem and cheers for the tip for how to wire the voltmeter too; you're right; it'd be much easier on the circuit board.
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Looks good mate, good post
When you say only needs calibrating once, how do you calibrate it?
I'm assuming it runs off the pumps pressure switch, so wouldn't need 'calibrating', just a pressure change on the p/s itself?
Thanks; yes, you're right - thanks for clarifying my post. Just the pump's pressure switch would need calibrating.
For those who don't know, just connect hose reel to pump, and pole to hose reel and turn it on.
At the bottom of your pump (on a Shurflo anyway) there's a hexagonal 'nut' where the arrow is pointing:
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1421952326_Tosh1.jpg)
Just adjust that so the water flows nicely - your normal working flow - yet when you 'dead end' the flow (whichever method you use to stop the flow), the pump shuts down pretty much straight away.
I've only ever had to do this once, unlike my old electronic flow controllers, which made me do it if the temperature changed.
I've got my box working OK, the only niggle being that I'm having a job calibrating shut off. I've tried adjusting the allen key at the base but can't get it to shut off any quicker than 14secs, with screw fully in to fully out! What do you think I'm doing wrong? I have the wires attached to the pressure switch connections. Any thing I've missed do you think? ???
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I've got my box working OK, the only niggle being that I'm having a job calibrating shut off. I've tried adjusting the allen key at the base but can't get it to shut off any quicker than 14secs, with screw fully in to fully out! What do you think I'm doing wrong? I have the wires attached to the pressure switch connections. Any thing I've missed do you think? ???
Have you tried winding the hexy screw all the way in and work outwards from there? Yes, you have. I think mine is about halfway.
Are you sure your pressure switch is okay? They cost about £2.50 to replace and they're very easy to do.
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Thanks for the quick reply Tosh. Yeah, I've done that. I will give it another go though. Cheers.
Then if no joy, I'll get a switch.
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Another tip would be to take the pressure switch apart, the plastic housing. Do it carefully over something so if any bits fall out, like a spring, you don't lose them.
Then you can see what effect the turning of the hexy screw has on the switch.
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OK thanks. I'll try my previous post first. Then do as above if no joy. 👍
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Tosh quick question for you you have red and black wire from pump n red and black from battery which switch do you wire pump to and which switch do you wire battery to cheers kev
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Tosh quick question for you you have red and black wire from pump n red and black from battery which switch do you wire pump to and which switch do you wire battery to cheers kev
I don't think it matters what wire you use to run to your pressure switch; it just breaks the connection when the pressure builds up.
This might help though:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_Y9TfLUm98
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You have the on off switch and the pulse width switch I mean the live and earth switch from pump and earth and live from battery Which switch does each item wire up to sorry for all questions
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All sorted. Went back to screw fully in and worked my way out. It now cuts off after 3secs. ;D
Here's some pics of my box. Thanks for the help.
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JK, your red /black pump wires go to the two left connections of the bank of four on the circuit board (look underneath for +\- .
The battery connections,to the rocker switch one on the left,one on the right. Then + load wire from centre pin on switch to far right connection on circuit board.
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Nice one cheers lads
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Wires on left from pump. Wires on right from battery. Negative batt (on right) on the switch and on same pin, Negative from switch to 3rd connection on circuit board.
Positive wire from middle pin on switch to far right on circuit board.
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:)cheers
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All sorted. Went back to screw fully in and worked my way out. It now cuts off after 3secs. ;D
Here's some pics of my box. Thanks for the help.
Looks good; don't like the green button though; red is better. Red's always better than green, even with running shoes. You go faster in red ones.
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Lol. It's a blue one. I always run faster if there's a blue light on ;D
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Which one of you guys has been copying then?
(http://new.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1427906520_2015-04-01_17-41_Window Cleaning Pump Control.jpg)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Window-Cleaning-Pump-Control-WFP-Window-Cleaning-shurflo-/271825475613?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f4a0f981d
Nice.
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Which one of you guys has been copying then?
(http://new.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1427906520_2015-04-01_17-41_Window Cleaning Pump Control.jpg)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Window-Cleaning-Pump-Control-WFP-Window-Cleaning-shurflo-/271825475613?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f4a0f981d
Nice.
Not me! Mine looks nowhere near that professional................unfortunately. Does the business though, for £15.
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Not me! Mine looks nowhere near that professional................unfortunately. Does the business though, for £15.
You ought to see my Mk 1; it looks like some kind of IED device some drunken Taliban knocked up during his Naafi break. :-[
Works great though.
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Not me! Mine looks nowhere near that professional................unfortunately. Does the business though, for £15.
You ought to see my Mk 1; it looks like some kind of IED device some drunken Taliban knocked up during his Naafi break. :-[
Works great though.
Funny stuff haha.
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Thanks Tosh - great post.
You don't happen to have a link to your post / vid about the control board you made....
It had a modification which meant you could remove it from the van in cold weather.
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Cheers Tosh,
Been a typical Yorkshireman (c'mon I've loaded the gun) and new to WFP I'm gonna have a crack at this. Just wondering if anyone can tell me how to knock up a battery on the cheap and if my old bath will do as a tank (I can bodge a lid) ;D ;D
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Thanks Tosh - great post.
You don't happen to have a link to your post / vid about the control board you made....
It had a modification which meant you could remove it from the van in cold weather.
Sorry, I never saw this; no I don't but I just bought a little connector from Wilkinson's that unplugs from the wire that comes from the battery, so I can just unplug it, disconnect the hoses and take the pumps and controllers into the house.
Anyway, shush, I don't want to think about Winter; it's July; despite the rain.
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Cheers Tosh,
Been a typical Yorkshireman (c'mon I've loaded the gun) and new to WFP I'm gonna have a crack at this.
Buy two of everything, to use as a spare, however my first controller is still going strong and it's about 18 months old now.
I NEVER have a problem - not one - with my flow controllers; no messing about, no recalibrating them because it's gotten colder or warmer; no problems at at. My pumps are about four or five years old too; no problems with them either.
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hI
what amp wire did you use for this project and did you use an inline fuse from the battery
any links to correct wire and fuse with holder would be apreciated
thanks
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My setup is evn more ghetto but its been working without for 9 months now
i have a normal leisure battery
it charges from a solar panel on the roof, very rare (every 2-3 weeks) i charge it from mains.
i use one of these pumps http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-DC-100PSI-4L-MIN-HIGH-PRESSURE-DIAPHRAGM-WATER-PUMP-FOR-RV-CARAVAN-BOAT-UK-/200939597202?hash=item2ec8eeed92
connected to the motor controller tosh uses http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=12v+voltage+regulator&_pgn=4&_skc=150&rt=nc
and thats it, the, no casing or anything, the pump and controller are screwed onto a piece of mdf board and fastened to side of my baffled tank next to the battery,.
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bump
what amp wire did you use for this project and did you use an inline fuse from the battery
any links to correct wire and fuse with holder would be apreciated
thanks
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Anyone ???
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I didn't use a fuse; there's one already in the controller.
This looks like the stuff I used:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10M-Red-Black-electrical-cable-Car-Home-wire-20A-Meter-79-0-2mm-20-AMP-/400677295553?hash=item5d4a3a55c1
Mine's been going for well over a year, with not a single problem, ever. Not even a recalibration because the temperature's changed or anything like that.
They're well worth it.
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I made a couple more of these up last week. Changed the way i wire them. I think this is simpler, tidyer............
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1441026668_IMG_20150826_133541.jpg)
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1441026691_IMG_20150829_224436.jpg)
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Looks good, Clean. Nice to see some folk using these things. I've all the kit for a spare, but I've not had to make it yet.
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A simple tweak to this design,.. when you're choosing your speed controller off ebay - find one with 5 wires going to the dial instead of the standard 3 wires - - that means it has the on/off switch built in & you don't need to bother wiring in a separate one.
Something like this: http://www.ebay.ie/itm/MAX-10-50V-2000W-40A-12V-24V-48V-DC-Motor-Speed-Control-PWM-HHO-RC-Controller-/201399689235?hash=item2ee45b6013
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Great thread, thanks.
Where/can you wire a one shot into this set up?
Tony
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Great thread, thanks.
Where/can you wire a one shot into this set up?
Tony
Whats a one shot ?
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Great thread, thanks.
Where/can you wire a one shot into this set up?
Tony
Whats a one shot ?
http://gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/poles-systems/system-pump-controls/vehicle-pump-controllers/liquid-logic-trade-stand-alone-radio-control-unit.html
Just fitted one will see how it works next week, I would imagine it can be fitted though
Tony
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I'd imagine its easy to do. I prefer a tap myself as its less to go wrong. But a cheap option for a wireless controller would be this...
eBay item number:
181317742063
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I'd imagine its easy to do. I prefer a tap myself as its less to go wrong. But a cheap option for a wireless controller would be this...
eBay item number:
181317742063
Great find, thanks.
I used to use a tap but went to Aqua adapter and aqua tap and loved not having the loop in the hose.
Both have their problems and weight at the strong end of the pole.
The one shot is not perfect. It's range and over run when the pumps cut are a concern. But no loop and no weight.
Tony
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I thought I'd revive this thread because I've just made my first one. Quality piece of kit and very simple to make. Thanks for the recipe Tosh
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Tosh I have found the nob/ dial call it what you will..tends to break off very easily.
Had a similar set up in my van but just used normal togle switch
Its just the flimsy controll nob that lets it down.
How have you delt with it ? Apart from that they are very good controllers and unlike the surflow they run till the battery is dead
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Tosh I have found the nob/ dial call it what you will..tends to break off very easily.
Had a similar set up in my van but just used normal togle switch
Its just the flimsy controll nob that lets it down.
How have you delt with it ? Apart from that they are very good controllers and unlike the surflow they run till the battery is dead
I put a voltmeter on mine for the specific reason i did not want to run the battery on less than 11 volts. If you run less, or run until the battery is dead you'll kill your battery pretty quick. If you're breaking the numpty off, make a protective cover to go round it so you don't break it off.
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Cut up a few bits of plastic from a pound shop tupperware container and some glue.
Be a bit inventive.
Agree 100% about the voltage.
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Tosh I have found the nob/ dial call it what you will..tends to break off very easily.
Had a similar set up in my van but just used normal togle switch
Its just the flimsy controll nob that lets it down.
How have you delt with it ? Apart from that they are very good controllers and unlike the surflow they run till the battery is dead
Not particularly knocking it off Clear, They just don't last keep altering flow as it is very flimsy. You just need to be heavier handed the odd time and it snaps off
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Tosh I have found the nob/ dial call it what you will..tends to break off very easily.
Had a similar set up in my van but just used normal togle switch
Its just the flimsy controll nob that lets it down.
How have you delt with it ? Apart from that they are very good controllers and unlike the surflow they run till the battery is dead
Not particularly knocking it off Clear, They just don't last keep altering flow as it is very flimsy. You just need to be heavier handed the odd time and it snaps off
Ok mate, i've never had a prob with mine. I fitted two on my mates van, and he's a yardstick for being thick, and his co worker is off the scale of thickness. I.e you can't even let him connect a battery up he'll get it wrong, anyway all ours are still intact with no issues. ;D
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Which reminds me, i'm not suggesting anyone goes and does it but we've found if you do connect the battery the wrong way round it just doesn't work. But also, does not blow a fuse nor scupper your controller. All is fine. Well after you discover you've got it wrong and connect correctly !! ;D
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Tosh I have found the nob/ dial call it what you will..tends to break off very easily.
Had a similar set up in my van but just used normal togle switch
Its just the flimsy controll nob that lets it down.
How have you delt with it ? Apart from that they are very good controllers and unlike the surflow they run till the battery is dead
No problems with the nobs on mine! Must be about two years old, or older now; still going strong.
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I've just made another DIY controller - a spare - for under £15. These are class, they only require calibration once (the air temperature doesn't affect them), and they don't require a battery in good nick to work either; they'll run on any old 12v battery.
I've included an on/off LED switch - though I think that's superfluous to requirments; it would work without it and be even simpler to produce. An LED on/off switch lets me know if it's on at a glance, and it also means I don't have to turn the dial to turn it on (I'm very lazy).
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1421950765_Tosh4.jpg)
Anyway, these are the parts I purchased:
12v LED rocker switch £2.00
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261513977084?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&var=560391577650&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Waterproof Project Box 115*90*55mm £4.52
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201212241692?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&var=500405437151&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
10A 12V~40V PWM DC Motor Speed Control Switch Controller Volt Regulator £7.00
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10A-12V-40V-PWM-DC-Motor-Speed-Control-Switch-Controller-Volt-Regulator-Dimmer-/121250426718?pt=UK_BOI_Industrial_Automation_Control_ET&hash=item1c3b16af5e
I drilled the holes for the voltage regulator and the switch and a hole at the rear for the wires that go to the pump and the battery:
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1421950849_Tosh1.jpg)
Then I wired it up; soldering the wires on the switch (first time soldering; which why it looks rough):
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1421951024_Tosh3.jpg)
I was unsure how to solder or wire a rocker switch, but it's all on youtube:
How to wire a rocker switch:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQpQWFYX524
How to solder:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLfXXRfRIzY
The wiring on the voltage regulator is easy; on the rear it tells you what's what, with regards motor +- and battery +-.
I quite enjoyed doing it too.
If anyone fancies a bash, don't be shy to ask questions, though it's pretty straightforward.
And if anyone can suggest any improvements, I'm all ears.
Oh, Ionics sell a similar, with VAT and delivery, it's £210.00
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1421951528_Tosh1.jpg)
And it doesn't even have an LED switch on it! :'( :'(
can you do a D I Y footage of how to do it because I'm very interested sick of paying a lot of money for these controllers thanks
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Tosh I have found the nob/ dial call it what you will..tends to break off very easily.
Had a similar set up in my van but just used normal togle switch
Its just the flimsy controll nob that lets it down.
How have you delt with it ? Apart from that they are very good controllers and unlike the surflow they run till the battery is dead
Not particularly knocking it off Clear, They just don't last keep altering flow as it is very flimsy. You just need to be heavier handed the odd time and it snaps off
Ok mate, i've never had a prob with mine. I fitted two on my mates van, and he's a yardstick for being thick, and his co worker is off the scale of thickness. I.e you can't even let him connect a battery up he'll get it wrong, anyway all ours are still intact with no issues. ;D
LOL that's one of the reasons why I work by myself as I only have to worry about my own stupidity.
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ive been making these and knocking them out for £25 plus £5 postage, they dont have a voltage display but they have a flow display, i stopped making the controllers with voltage display as they took me longer to wire up!!
yes we know you can make them yourself slightly cheaper but i've put a little bit on for my labour etc and they're still cheap, i have one of these fitted in my van now and they look and work a treat!!
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quick question guys
these 10A 12V~40V PWM DC Motor Speed Control Switch Controller Volt Regulator
you have have two wires on the pump one red one black and a wire from the pressure switch in to the pump on a shurflo
so i have connected the red black to the speed controller board wer it states motor and the battery ones to the battery all good switches on pump runs
but the controller wont slow the pump down
should i hear a drop in the pump as it is turned down and once its fully turned down should the pump stop?
Thanks
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quick question guys
these 10A 12V~40V PWM DC Motor Speed Control Switch Controller Volt Regulator
you have have two wires on the pump one red one black and a wire from the pressure switch in to the pump on a shurflo
so i have connected the red black to the speed controller board wer it states motor and the battery ones to the battery all good switches on pump runs
but the controller wont slow the pump down
should i hear a drop in the pump as it is turned down and once its fully turned down should the pump stop?
Thanks
Yes you should be able to hear it going faster or slower. And i think you can slow it down so much that it stops. If yours is wired correctly, and from what you say it sounds like it is i would suspect a faulty motor controller.
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Thought as much have ordered another as there only £3 delivered
Thanks
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My flow controller went pear-shaped on Friday morning, so I fitted a small switch to it (I had got this from Wilkos a long time ago, just for this kind of problem), so I could turn it off and on; using the pump's pressure switch for the rest of the day. It meant working at 'full blast', but that's fine by me.
And I've just fitted a spare controller that I had ready made; it took about ten minutes to connect it up.
No downtime.
I'll order another two volt regulator and another two switches and re-make the one I've just taken out of the van.
It's very simple because the boxes already have the correct holes cut in them and I just re-use the wires; they're already cut to the right length.
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I just use these , £7.21 on eBay , the dial has the on off built in and it has led to tell it’s on
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1569089862_CC869DCF-041B-4159-ABF3-CA6B513C4459.png)
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https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F323585726803