Clean It Up
UK Window Cleaning Forum => Window Cleaning Forum => Topic started by: colin purewater on October 07, 2013, 10:12:18 pm
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For winter!
Does any one use cylinder jackets on to and
Pumps in there shed?
Don't want to be messing a bout this year draining
Pumps down and taking the ro in doors
So does any one do the above for a static system
In there shed?
Cheers
Colin
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Yep we use the red jackets from
Wickes. They are usually government funded so are cheap.
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I seen them in screw fix for £7 ish
Do you find just one does the job good enough ?
Cheers
Colin
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i found it cheaper to buy loft insulation from B&Q, YOU GET A LOT MORE FOR YOUR MONEY
cover the pump, ro, tank the lot
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After messing about for years, I built a box with all my r/o stuff inside. In my case I have a 4040, 2 x 20" prefilters, solenoid valve, di vessel and an inline tds meter.
I also fitted a frost thermostat in the top corner and have a 140 watt tube heater at the bottom. The thermostat kept the inside of the cabinet at 10 degrees C all last winter.
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Spruce - as always mate a great, well thought out idea.
I haven't gone that far just have an oil filled rad set on frost nest to pump and RO in shed
Darran
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That's exactly what I've done Spruce. Do you have a link to the tube heater you used please?
The box you built, is it in a shed or outside? Mine is outside (along with the IBC) and I've packed loads of celotex insulation around the tank but quite like the idea of a heater "trickling away" to keep the frost out.
Cheers
Sorry if I'm hijacking the thread Colin :)
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Don't have that problem had a nice radiator fitted in garage to keep my machine nice & toasty during those cold winter months 😃
In the van I have a small thermo heater on a timer which I run electric lead from garage into van which clicks on about 3.30 then off to work at 4.30 van is nice and warm and also the screen has no frost on it. Keeps it all nice and warm for the start of our day with the hot wash !!!! 😜
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That's exactly what I've done Spruce. Do you have a link to the tube heater you used please?
The box you built, is it in a shed or outside? Mine is outside (along with the IBC) and I've packed loads of celotex insulation around the tank but quite like the idea of a heater "trickling away" to keep the frost out.
Cheers
Sorry if I'm hijacking the thread Colin :)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-FT-ELECTRIC-TUBE-HEATER-FOR-FROST-PROTECTION-120-WATT-WITH-PLUG-AND-FLEX-/170725757014?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item27c00c5056#ht_1519wt_1161
It was the 2' one so must be 120 watt not 140 watt. Sorry.
I put a 1' 40 watt in there first and it was a waste of time. It was on all the time and I never saw the temp rise above 5 degrees.
My r/o is in the garage, but it does get cold in there. A couple of winters ago the delivery hose froze solid. I don't have a submersible pump to fill the van. The pump is external. So I fitted that in an old kitchen cupboard and put in a light bulb socket. When it gets cold I just switch the light on and the 40 watt bulb seems to be fine. Its such an issue having to drain the pump down and then prime it when its needed.
My mate has a Merlin in an outside steel garden shed. Its all wrapped up with bubble wrap and he runs a small paraffin heater in there. The winter 2 years ago damaged his r/o so he had to replace it.
Before I built the box, I had my 450gpd r/o mounted on the wall. In the winter I covered it with a large towel, made a 'tent' and put an old mechanics inspection lamp inside with a 100 watt bulb. The r/o never froze, but there were anxious moments when I got out to the garage in the morning and the bulb had blown sometime during the night.
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(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1381256314_4040 ro 052b.jpg)
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1381256332_4040 ro 053b.jpg)
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1381256366_4040 ro 051b.jpg)
That is what it looks like. These pictures show the 40 watt tube heater, now replaced with a 120 watt unit.
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Lovely, thanks Spruce 140 watt it is..
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That box looks great, but if like me your's is in the shed and you always forget, bubblewrap is pretty good for a quick fix.(if you live in the south might be too cold up north)
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Hi again .. Spruce, or anyone else that might know, is it easy to connect up a frost stat?
Cheers Dave
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Hi again .. Spruce, or anyone else that might know, is it easy to connect up a frost stat?
Cheers Dave
Hi Dave
Very easy to fit. They come with a simple wiring diagram.
The cable that is fitted to the tube heater isn't very long. I went down to our local electrical retail shop and bought a couple of meters of 10amp 3 core cable. At 120 watt, the tube heater only uses 1/2 an amp so well up to the job. I also bought a length of 10 amp electrical strip connectors.
I removed the short cable, and replaced it with the longer cable. In my heaters case the wires were connected up to the heater element with strip connect type fittings, so was easy.
All the frost thermostat is, is an on/off switch you insert into the cable from your plug to the heater. When removing front cover to get to the innards, you have to remove the temperature dial. Mark it first so you can put it back the way it came off. Don't be tempted to turn the splinned shaft the dial has come off of. It would be a good idea to mark that as well.
The thermostat I got was a frost stat as opposed to a room thermostat. (Frost stats go to lower temperatures than room stats do.)
I cut the new cable to the right length and stripped to wires back. Using the brown (+) I secured those to the two terminals inside frost stat - the one from the plug and the other to the tube heater. The blue I did likewise but joined them together using a 10amp strip connector. The frost stat had a separate earth cable screw which I used to join the 2 earth cable together. It was on the metal plate that holds the thermostat mechanism, so that's earthed as well.
The garage is protected with earth leakage, but if yours isn't them you need to buy an RCD plug that will trip out if there is any damp about.
On my unit, I fitted a 13amp double socket above the box, so the cable that comes from the top, plugs into that socket. A separate plug and cable supplies the solenoid valve and float switch in the IBC tank on the other side of the garage.
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Many thanks Spruce your a star!
One more favour, if you just pop down to Poole and do a couple of wiring jobs for me.......
;) ;D
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(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1381256314_4040 ro 052b.jpg)
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1381256332_4040 ro 053b.jpg)
(http://www.cleanitup.co.uk/smf/1381256366_4040 ro 051b.jpg)
That is what it looks like. These pictures show the 40 watt tube heater, now replaced with a 120 watt unit.
Thats really neat and tidy and well thought out